How are KLF-10's and what are similar Klipsch to these?

[Mystery]

How are KLF-10's and what are similar Klipsch to these?
Same as KG5.5's?
Is KG line better than KLF line or the other way around?
Looks like KG5.5's were made until 1997 and then KLF line started so may be just the successor. :headscrat
Thanks

 

[absolve2525]

I bought some KLF10 a few months ago. They sounded pretty good, perhaps a little lacking in detail. Then I upgraded the tweeter with Crites Ti diaphragms. Big difference! Those stock poly diaphragms are pretty dull sounding. So much more clarity with new phragms, and those dual tens are unstoppable. I haven't changed out any of the original crossover parts. They're bigger and heavier than I imagined. I haven't heard KG 5.X to compare. From the specs, the KLF 10 extend lower than KLF 20 or 30. Probably from extra volume since there is no midhorn taking up space in the cabinet.http://www.klipsch.com/klf-10/details

 

[Mystery]

Yes, since these are the lowest/smallest in that series, I was expecting small speakers but man I was wrong.
These are pretty big, deep and heavy.
Briefly hooked them and all drivers are working.
It'll be interesting comparison against JBL SVA1800 and Klipsch RF3's.

 

[absolve2525]

With Ti diaphragms, they should sound brighter than the SVA series as well as having higher efficiency. They should have lower bass than the RF3. Definitely let us know what you think!

 

[Mystery]

Bad thing is I have RF3 and SVA's in the family room and not enough space to put these there so need to reorganize things to compare.
And these and SVA's are pretty big and heavy to move around.

Here are few cellphone pictures of quick test setup:

 

[moray james]

if you rais the KLF10 up so that the centre of the horn is at you seated ear level you will get improve stage and image. Get the ti diaphragms if you don't have them yet. Later you can recap them and there are lots of other mods that you can do very nice speakers. Congratulations on your find. Best regards Moray James.

 

[Mystery]

if you rais the KLF10 up so that the centre of the horn is at you seated ear level you will get improve stage and image. Get the ti diaphragms if you don't have them yet. Later you can recap them and there are lots of other mods that you can do very nice speakers. Congratulations on your find. Best regards Moray James.

I'm not sure if it has any upgrade or completely original.
Need to open it up to find that out.
I see spike holes on the bottom so the spikes are missing. Do these come with spikes or that was something PO did?

I'd like to replace my RF3's if these sound better but RF3's have matching RC-3 center and I don't have KLF center so it won't work for home theater.

Several like KLF-10's over 20's and 30's.
This thread mentions:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5449529&postcount=16

gagelle gagelle is offline
AK Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 1,560

I have KLF 30s, Cornwall 3s, Fortes and Epic cf-3s. My favorite speakers are the KLF 30s. I haven't heard the KLF-10s but some people like them better than the larger Klf-30s. In my opinion, the KLF series are some of the finest sounding speakers Klipsch ever made. I may be remembering this story incorrectly, but I read that Paul Klipsch briefly came out of retirement and designed the KLF series. I was lucky enough to find a used pair within driving distance. The seller was a super guy and gave me a great price because of a stain on top of one speaker. I would have actually gone for any KLF speaker. It's just that the 30s were available. They're actually too big for my room. I would jump on KLF-10 speakers. I have my 30s hooked up to a Sansui 9090DB and it's absolute bliss. I just have to do some Crites upgrades. They also seem to have been steadily climbing in price over the last few years.
__________________
"Without music, life would be a mistake." -- Friedrich Nietzsche

 

[absolve2525]

Hmm, I don't think they need to be raised up any. One advantage of the tweeter horn on top, versus in-between the woofers like the Epic CF series. It's already at ear level when you sit down, unless you're extremely tall. Those look great! I like the wood.

 

[Mystery]

RF3's are not moving from family room so I'm not comparing KLF's against them.
I moved JBL SVA1800's to the living room so I can compare these.

So far I am liking the KLF's. They have great mids even without a mid horn.
Sound little forward compared to JBL's.
However, SVA1800's sound smoother and more balanced but need quite a lot more power as they are not as efficient as KLF's.
I removed all other speakers from that wall (Polks, black bostons and black klipsch) as shown above and now have only these three speakers there.
Boston A400
Klipsch KLF-10
JBL SVA1800

KLF-10's are supposed to be slightly taller than the SVA1800's but KLF's are missing those small pegs/feet on the bottom so are slightly shorter instead.
Need to do more listening and if the KLF's don't give me listening fatigue, they may be keepers.

Boston A400 are so slim compared to KLF's.
I can fit more than two A400's and still KLF will be deeper.

 

[moray james]

PWK did not design the KLF 10 ...

I'm not sure if it has any upgrade or completely original.
Need to open it up to find that out.
I see spike holes on the bottom so the spikes are missing. Do these come with spikes or that was something PO did?

I'd like to replace my RF3's if these sound better but RF3's have matching RC-3 center and I don't have KLF center so it won't work for home theater.

Several like KLF-10's over 20's and 30's.
This thread mentions:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5449529&postcount=16

"I may be remembering this story incorrectly, but I read that Paul Klipsch briefly came out of retirement and designed the KLF series. "


As far as I have been able to discover PWK did not design any of the KLF series and it was Todd Lambert who designed the KLF10. Not sure who designed the KLF20 and the KLF30, I would not be surprised to find that it was Roy Delgado but I don't know for sure. This was not uncommon, Gary Gillum designed the Forte and Roy Delgado designed the Forte ll and the Quartet. Kerry Geist designed the Chorus and the Chorus ll. PWK and Roy Delgado designed the Jubilee together, but I expect that Roy did most of the grunt work on that one as Paul was close to the end by then. Roy also designed the Epic series CF2 CF3 and CF4.

You can use either a threaded (1/4-20)spike or 1/4-20 threaded nylon feet under your speakers that is what th3ee inserts were designed for by annd at the factory. Switching out the factory stock poly tweeter diaphragms for the Bob Ctites titanium diaphragms will simply transform the sound quality of these loudspeakers and take them to a whole new level of performance. Don't pass on this opportunity to hear these excellent speakers that their best. Best regards Moray James.

 

[absolve2525]

I wholeheartedly agree with Moray, those Ti diaphragms make a huge difference. They are only sixty bucks for a pair. Night and day difference.

 

[Mystery]

You can use either a threaded (1/4-20)spike or 11/4-20 threaded nylon feet under your speakers that is what th3ee inserts were designed for by annd at the factory. Switching out the factory stock poly tweeter diaphragms for the Bob Ctites titanium diaphragms will simply transform the sound quality of these loudspeakers and take them to a whole new level of performance. Don't pass on this opportunity to hear these excellent speakers that their best. Best regards Moray James.

Do you mean 11/4-20 spike instead of 1/4-20 spike?

 

[moray james]

Do you mean 11/4-20 spike instead of 1/4-20 spike?

sticky fingers - the threaded insert is 1/4inch dia. 20 threads per inch which is a standard for lots of things such as office furniture etc. the nylon glides with threaded studs are perfect for use on hard wood floors or for other applications. Sorry if that generated any confusion. Best regards Moray James.

 

[vnzbd]

The 10's did not come with the machine threaded inserts for the feet. They came with spikes that were directly treaded into the wood. The spikes had plastic caps to protect the floors as needed. I have filled my with dowel rods and re-drilled for rubber feet as they site on marble floors.

I have a bunch of the original spikes but no caps. If you are interested in them just let me know.

 

[Mystery]

The 10's did not come with the machine threaded inserts for the feet. They came with spikes that were directly treaded into the wood. The spikes had plastic caps to protect the floors as needed. I have filled my with dowel rods and re-drilled for rubber feet as they site on marble floors.

I have a bunch of the original spikes but no caps. If you are interested in them just let me know.

You are correct.
They just have holes directly on the wood.

PM me details on the original spikes.
Thanks

 

[Mystery]

I noticed one speaker rattles on heavy bass notes.
All screws are tight. I initially thought the panels are coming loose.
I narrowed the issue to the plastic horn.
If I press it, no rattle.
It's tight so not sure what's causing it. :headscrat:

 

[RS Steve]

Most of the early KLF series speakers had a problem with the cabinets seperating at the baffle and rear panel. They used melamine boards and the glue didn't stick well to that smooth surface. I had to take all the drivers out, grind the smooth surface away along the corners of the inside, then I used liquid nails along the joints. Problem was solved after that. You might want to check that out and make sure yours is not having that same issue.

 

[Mystery]

Most of the early KLF series speakers had a problem with the cabinets seperating at the baffle and rear panel. They used melamine boards and the glue didn't stick well to that smooth surface. I had to take all the drivers out, grind the smooth surface away along the corners of the inside, then I used liquid nails along the joints. Problem was solved after that. You might want to check that out and make sure yours is not having that same issue.

That's what I thought but there is no vibration on the cabinet panels.
It's on the horn.
I think something is touching it inside or something is loose there
If I press the inside of the horn area, it, doesn't rattle. :scratch2:

 

[RS Steve]

That's what I thought but there is no vibration on the cabinet panels.
It's on the horn.
I think something is touching it inside or something is loose there
If I press the inside of the horn area, it, doesn't rattle. :scratch2:

I tapped on the baffle and cabinets for a while, it became obvious over time what was going on. It is a pretty well known fact, and there were a few threads about it here. Hope yours is an easy fix though.

 

[Mystery]

I tapped on the baffle and cabinets for a while, it became obvious over time what was going on. It is a pretty well known fact, and there were a few threads about it here. Hope yours is an easy fix though.

Will open it up sometimes.

I didn't hear it until yesterday even on loud volumes.
I popped in Star Wars VI DVD last night and in some scenes, I heard rumble and rattle.
Then I used some bass test tracks and it did that but only on very low bass recoils.
Sounds like a train track.