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How are KLF-10's and what are similar Klipsch to these?

avguytx said:
I'm going to try and attach some pictures of the re-attaching of the back panels on my CF-3's I did recently. After scraping off the sporadic laid down hot melt, I reattached with liquid nails and screws. May have to attach one at a time since I'm on my iPhone. I hate that they get turned sideways. Sorry about that.
Click to expand...

So that much liquid nail is enough or need to smear it on the surface evenly?

avguytx said:
And another...
Click to expand...
I see wood strips there all around inside.
Thanks for the pics.
 
I've got about 3 lines of liquid nails in the channels and it holds darn good...plus being screwed down both directions.
 
avguytx said:
I've got about 3 lines of liquid nails in the channels and it holds darn good...plus being screwed down both directions.
attachment.php
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How long are the screws?
Are those braces original or added?
How are the braces secured? They can't be screwed from outside. :scratch2:

Dingman said:
You want pictures? we have pictures!

Start here at Page 3
Click to expand...

Thanks, will check that.
 
Make sure you go past page 3, lots of pics.

Ya, I'm wondering about those screws as well - they must be EXACTLY the correct length. All my supports are glued to the inside, with some screws in the center of the cross-braces.

EDIT: Those braces are stock - here's a pic of my KLF20's when I first pulled the drivers.
attachment.php
 
Mystery said:
How long are the screws?
Are those braces original or added?
How are the braces secured? They can't be screwed from outside.
Click to expand...

Those screws are 1-1/4" long and I used red oak as that wood won't let the screws countersink themselves very easily. As mentioned, those other braces are stock. I added bracing on the top and bottom of the cabinet, too. I didn't go too crazy on them.
 
vnzbd, Thank you for the spikes!

vnzbd said:
The 10's did not come with the machine threaded inserts for the feet. They came with spikes that were directly treaded into the wood. The spikes had plastic caps to protect the floors as needed. I have filled my with dowel rods and re-drilled for rubber feet as they site on marble floors.

I have a bunch of the original spikes but no caps. If you are interested in them just let me know.
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vnzbd,
Thank you for the spikes! :thmbsp:
Haven't installed them as I'll have to fix the rattling baffle first before properly setting them up.
 
vnzbd said:
You are welcome!
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What a timing of things!
We discussed last week on replacing carpet on 1st floor and now wifey wants hardwood floor.
It should be starting this weekend.
So the plan is to have something in between the spikes and hardwood floor.
I'm thinking a piece of carpet below with some soft drink caps. ::scratch2:
 
you will need something harder and thicker than a pop bottle cap. with spikes you will be mass loading the entire weight of your speaker onto the surface area of the spikes that you use. You do not need a calculator to figure out that is a lot of mass on a very small point. Rather than spikes which do work well but which are also a pain in the ass (and you won't have one good thing to say about them to your wife the day you scratch her hardwood floor) bet some nylon furniture glides. You will still be loading a lot of mass but onto a little larger area, they make it very easy to position the speaker (the exact opposite of spikes) and they will never leave a mark. It is a very intelligent compromise. Best regards Moray James.
 
moray james said:
you will need something harder and thicker than a pop bottle cap.
Click to expand...
I was thinking of putting a piece of carpet the size of bottom of the speaker and then using the bottle cap on top of it so it won't be touching the floor directly.

vnzbd said:
Well I went away from the spikes and have tried a couple different methods. My favorite so far is a rubber foot sold by Parts Express. Very sturdy and the treaded insert will screw right into the exsiting holes with no modification needed. This would allow you to go back to the spikes at a later date if desired.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-drfs1-1-3-8-x-1-heavy-duty-rubber-feet-4-pcs--240-712
Click to expand...

Yes, rubber feet or square rubber pieces that are usually for furniture sounds better option. :scratch2:
 
Yes any nylon ones like those allow you to adjust the level of the speaker and still mass load but make positioning a breeze and will never leave a mark. Best regards Moray James.
 
moray james said:
Yes any nylon ones like those allow you to adjust the level of the speaker and still mass load but make positioning a breeze and will never leave a mark. Best regards Moray James.
Click to expand...

Okay thanks.
That also gave me idea on all other things I have that can scratch floor.

Looks like I need felt pad kit like this below to put under chairs, tables etc...

074523050002.jpg
 
I was just wondering if adding wood glue along the seam would fix the rattle as I really don't have time to do full on repair right now.
:scratch2:
 
Mystery said:
I was just wondering if adding wood glue along the seam would fix the rattle as I really don't have time to do full on repair right now.
:scratch2:
Click to expand...

Just scrape a little of the surface along the seam, then apply liquid nails.
 
I recently found that some KLF mids are wired out of phase.
It's not easy like woofer to test with a battery.
How do I test if mine have that issue?

RS Steve said:
Just scrape a little of the surface along the seam, then apply liquid nails.
Click to expand...

Will give that a try.
thanks
 
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