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How to clean a tuner (analog)

Can anyone direct me where to clean the contacts? I see the fins, I guess that's what the ones that are sticking out are called.
 
If you look at where the arrows point you will see little brass contacts that connect the shaft to the chassis. Those points where the contacts touch the shaft are where to clean.
 
I think I see them!!! Little thin piece of metal in the center of the picture?
 

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OMG,, I need better eyes!!! My old eyes and lack of a spot light don't help. Correct materials are being delivered Thursday. I will not just use what I have. I am going to do it with what you said in the first thread. I still may have more severe issues after I apply, but it sure won't hurt to have it cleaned and lubed!!!
 
Unfortunately I have more trouble. I really enjoyed reading and learning how to properly clean my tuner. I will need an ocilloscope and sweep generator and someone who knows how to run them! I have a tech lined up and it won't hurt to have it gone through anyway. Thanks again @dr*audio for starting this thread and teaching me more about my tuner.
 
Dr. Audio,

How is about this tuner cap from Sansui 5000X? There are some oxidization marks on the shaft where it contact the fins (red arrows). Should I clean them? Thanks.
 

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anti-doom said:
Dr. Audio,

How is about this tuner cap from Sansui 5000X? There are some oxidization marks on the shaft where it contact the fins (red arrows). Should I clean them? Thanks.
Click to expand...
On this type of tuning cap you can't get to the contacts to clean them so you clean the shaft where the contacts touch it. Qtips or a toothbrush helps.
 
Yamaha T-2 Cleaning.

Not sure if there is one already shown in here, But I decided to show what I did today.

The Capacitor cover is soldered on at the top to the Fin Cage, so that has to be de soldered before you can access the Capacitors fins and shaft.

Here is how it looked before

49775277332_6f7e821ff8_b.jpg


A closer shot of the oxidation.

49774946926_720a210175_b.jpg


Turn the shaft as you go to get all around it. I turned it and cleaned about every 1/4 turn and
repeated a few times using Fader Lube and Caned air to blow it off the fins, hard not to get some there even using a Q-tip. Capillary action takes over ;)

49774416398_547e6e183f_b.jpg


Q-tip after first full turn of cleaning, it was the same after the second turn but much cleaner after the third full rotation.

49775277257_0418cccefb_c.jpg


It should get as clean as the open shaft area on the left, the right needed another pass.

49774946846_486621f3f2_b.jpg



Thats about it. Oh and after the Fader Lube I use some Stabilant 22 anti oxidation and contact enhancer
on it.

Athanasios


 
I'm hoping this will fix my Kenwood KT-900. Works great, except that the digital readout (derived from the actual tuned frequency) and the dial pointer are off by 3Mhz or so -- at the physical stop when the blades are fully engaged, the digital tuner display reliably reads 90.5, and the station at 90.5 locally tunes in. I could live with that except that my local NPR station is a 88.3! Digital display reads over 114Mhz at the far end, so it's reliably offset. I'm assuming one gang on the variable capacitor isn't making contact, or the trimmer is not.

I tried some 91% isopropyl alcohol on the contacts and got some green stuff off, but no change in the display. DeOxit on the way, as I just found this thread today.

My KT-5500 of similar age works fine except for no lamps, to be fixed soon.
 
Manual available at hifiengine. Alignment issues. There are tracking adjustments for the frontend then there is a frequency counter adjustment for the display. Never worked on this tuner so not sure of interactions. The freq counter has you adjust VR1 at 89.1 so it displays 89.1
 
OK, probably have to get someone to do the alignment then as I'm limited to a good DVM. May try some small tweaks just to see what happens, but no desire to mess anything up.
 
Well after having sucess using this cleaning method I have a problem with my Sansui TA 500, it wanders now. Did I use too much Deoxit 5 and or Faderlube and now just need to let it sit a few days?
 
What does everyone think of the idea of using anti-seize to lubricate sliding contacts and bearings? Anti-seize is a high-temperature grease loaded with aluminum or copper powder. That should enable the contact points to remain low resistance.
 
Not. You want clean, uncorroded contacts, not conductive slime everywhere (and anti-seize track like nothing else I've ever seen). Fader lube is perfect, and is probably when was on there to start with, or something similar.

Very small amount, should NOT get on the plates.
 
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