Ah. Same as my 240. Just make sure to observe correct polarity.
How to Connect This Marantz Setup?
- Thread starter Chitown84
- Start date
Chitown84
Active Member
my amp doesn't have those white and black connections for the loudspeakers. its just some screws.
Yes, there are different size lugs for different gauge wire.
You'll have to look at which size lugs you need. Too big and they won't work. Too small and the wire won't fit into the opening on the lug.
Ok. You have little barriers between each connector. Very carefully twist the end of the speaker wires tightly, then wrap once around the screw, then tighten screw. You will see if you have any frayed ends that would be concerning. I also find it helps to put some downward pressure on the wires while you tighten the screws to keep them in place.
If you can solder, simply twist the ends of the speaker wire and tin them with a little solder. You can then bend them in a candy cane shape.
I would not use speaker wire larger than 16 gauge with these connectors. 14 might work. 12 will be too big. I know it may be heresy, but there is no issue using 18 gauge wire if the run is less than 20-30 feet.
If you can solder, simply twist the ends of the speaker wire and tin them with a little solder. You can then bend them in a candy cane shape.
I would not use speaker wire larger than 16 gauge with these connectors. 14 might work. 12 will be too big. I know it may be heresy, but there is no issue using 18 gauge wire if the run is less than 20-30 feet.
Get something like these and you are golden. BTW, I have been connecting bare wire to amps and receivers for almost 40 years.
Maybe you can post a picture of your connections before you power everything up.
Maybe you can post a picture of your connections before you power everything up.
Another tip: Get a good four or six outlet surge protector with a power switch, keep all of the components turned on, and use that to turn the whole system on or off. I stress good, not a cheap local hardware store power strip.
Chitown84
Active Member
I already have 2, 1 of them has 2 outlets that are labeled always on, 4 that are " switched" and then 1 says master. another one I have is all the same outlets and 1 switch to turn it on off, this is the one they are plugged into.
here's my connection. the one on the far right actually has some fraying on quite a bit of wires. im gonna order the 14 gauge spade lugs.
Use spades.
Banana clips are not an option.
Spades come in a variety of spade widths and sleeve diameters. Match sleeve diameter with speaker wire gauge; standard sleeve diameters are 10-12 gauge, 14-16 gauge, etc. Make sure spade width is as small as possible but still fits the screw.
Chitown84
Active Member
Thank you, are crimpers necessary for this connection? I went on Amazon and unless I’m not seeing the correct ones, seems like they have to be crimped. They are the ones lucky posted a picture of
Crimping or solder are the only ways I've done them. Tried using vise grips, pliers, other similar tools a long time ago and never had much luck. Hopefully others with more knowledge will weigh in.
What I see in that picture is that your wire gauge is too thick to use this way. Get the spades, or use thinner wire and tin the ends, then bend to fit.
Chitown84
Active Member
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How long is your run? For short runs, 16, or even 18 is ok.
If this were mine, and the run was less than 10 or 12 feet, I would use 18 gauge. 10-20 feet, 16 gauge. 14 up to 50 feet. I know there are many here that may disagree, though.
If you use bare wire, it should be completely under the bolt head when they are tightened. You don't have to crank down on the bolt. You want the wire to be tight under the heads, but not squished out.
If this were mine, and the run was less than 10 or 12 feet, I would use 18 gauge. 10-20 feet, 16 gauge. 14 up to 50 feet. I know there are many here that may disagree, though.
If you use bare wire, it should be completely under the bolt head when they are tightened. You don't have to crank down on the bolt. You want the wire to be tight under the heads, but not squished out.
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Chitown84
Active Member
my run is only about 10-13ft. I am going to end up switching to 16 because the 14 is even a bit of a pain to get into the back of my pioneer sx850. thanks for the tip on the wire not showing under the bolt head. I will switch that out soon to 16. is it necessary to tin the wires? I have no problem doing that, I just have to order some solder. Any tips on what solder to use?
On a side note, bit of a bad update here. Not sure what the hell happened between tonight and Friday night but this 3300 won't turn on. Came home from the tech on Friday afternoon and hooked everything up, tried it out and no problems at all. My tech even replaced the light that was out on the unit for free. Watched him do everything too which is great because he showed me on all his gear that everything was looking perfect.
Before I took it in on Friday to the tech, the 3300 was working except for the light. I could see the meters on my 250 moving as I was adjusting the volume though. I had no sound but that was because I had the speakers hooked up to the 3300 instead of the 250, like a dum dum I know. But after I tested everything out once I got home from the tech on Friday, nothing has changed. I turned the power strip off and off it stayed until I came home from the firehouse this morning.
No moving meters on the 250 as my tt is playing either or when I adjust the volume. checked the fuse and it didn't look blown. plugged the 3300 into a different power strip and directly into an outlet but nothing still.
any thoughts guys before I end up taking it back to my tech on Friday? Really was a bummer tonight, I had Aerosmiths live Bootleg record from 77' 78' tour ready to be blasted. I do have 2 new sets of rca cables coming from amazon today so I can connect the 120 tuner to the 3300 and see if that works on the tuner setting. im not thinking it will but I guess there's a chance the light could be out again and the 2 phono stages are blown?
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