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How to Connect This Marantz Setup?

Ok, so just for anyone who's been vested in this thread so far, I emailed my tech a bit ago and gave him a brief description of the issue that you guys have helped me pin point. Here is a direct quote from his email response,

"The power switch has become faulty from it switching the power amp plugged into the switched outlets on the rear on and off, which over time will damage the contacts within the switch."

I bought the 3300, as well as the 250 amp and 120 tuner, from an original owner and im not sure how he had it plugged in but I never had this unit in operation and when I tested it out I had everything plugged into a power strip. So im assuming the previous owner must of had that 250 amp plugged into the 3300 switched outlet I guess? would that mean that every time he turned the 3300 on it would turn the 250 on also? if thats the case, I guess its not the best way to run that if it degrades those contacts?

anyways, the tech is open tomorrow for drop offs so ill get more info tomorrow. just wanted to keep everyone informed. shouldn't be too bad of a repair cost. I will ask him if he can swap out the broken tape button switch too. hopefully he can find a proper fitting/matching knob for it also. I bought one on eBay a while ago but its just a hair to short, diameter is perfect but a bit too short.

have a great 4th everyone, cheers
 
Seems very plausible to me.

Ideally you could find a high quality power strip with at least one of its outlets controlled by its own switch. This would allow you to turn the big amp on and off by itself.

Or just use one of those wireless remote outlets, plugged in to your existing power strip.

And if the cost of having a new switch installed is too rich, you could just bypass the switch and use the power strip switch or a remote control outlet to turn it on/off.
 
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Seems very plausible to me.

Ideally you could find a high quality power strip with at least one of its outlets controlled by its own switch. This would allow you to turn the big amp on and off by itself.

Or just use one of those wireless remote outlets, plugged in to your existing power strip.

And if the cost of having a new switch installed is too rich, you could just bypass the switch and use the power strip switch or a remote control outlet to turn it on/off.
thanks for all the tips sir, I will keep you informed.

I am curious about the bypass solution though, what would the bypass consist of?
 
thanks for all the tips sir, I will keep you informed.

I am curious about the bypass solution though, what would the bypass consist of?

Simply removing the two wires from the switch and connecting them together with a wire nut.

Literally bypassing the switch.
 
Simply removing the two wires from the switch and connecting them together with a wire nut.

Literally bypassing the switch.

im gonna see what the tech is gonna charge and then go from there. hopefully its not too bad. that is good to know though, is that something you would disconnect from the connection inside the unit?
 
im gonna see what the tech is gonna charge and then go from there. hopefully its not too bad. that is good to know though, is that something you would disconnect from the connection inside the unit?
The wires go to the switch, which is - of course - inside the unit. They could be desoldered, or simply cut off. The switch itself would remain in place, for cosmetic purposes.

This all assumes that the problem is indeed the switch, but it seems likely.
 
I don't think that you actually performed the test that I described in an earlier post. Measure the ACV out of one of the switched outlets while you turn the 3300 on and off. The easy way to do this test is to plug a table lamp into one of the switched outlets on the back of the 3300 and see if the amp lights ONLY when the amp works and doesn't work when the lamp is OFF (but the switch is ON).
 
I don't think that you actually performed the test that I described in an earlier post. Measure the ACV out of one of the switched outlets while you turn the 3300 on and off. The easy way to do this test is to plug a table lamp into one of the switched outlets on the back of the 3300 and see if the amp lights ONLY when the amp works and doesn't work when the lamp is OFF (but the switch is ON).

This is a bit confusing. [ EDIT: I think you meant lamp, not amp, and then amp and not lamp ]. Also, OP only has lamps with polarized plugs, which the 3300 will not accept.

I could be wrong, but it seems to me that:
  • If the 3300 is switched on but not working, but still shows AC at the switched outlet, the problem is downstream from the switch.
  • If the 3300 is switched on but not working, and does NOT show AC at the switched outlet, the switch is at fault.
  • If the 3300 is switched off, there should not be AC at the switched outlet.
Right?
 
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I don't think that you actually performed the test that I described in an earlier post. Measure the ACV out of one of the switched outlets while you turn the 3300 on and off. The easy way to do this test is to plug a table lamp into one of the switched outlets on the back of the 3300 and see if the amp lights ONLY when the amp works and doesn't work when the lamp is OFF (but the switch is ON).
I have lamps in the house but all have the larger neutral prong.
This is a bit confusing. Also, OP only has lamps with polarized plugs, which the 3300 will not accept.

If the 3300 is switched on but not working, but still shows AC at the switched outlet, the problem is downstream from the switch.

If the 3300 is switched on but not working, and does NOT show AC at the switched outlet, the switch is at fault.

so just for good measure I decided to test the switched outlets again. the 3300 isn't powering on at the moment but the switched outlet does show 124v with the power switch pressed in or depressed. Same for both positions.

I'll be taking the unit it at noon when my tech opens up. I'll keep everyone posted.
 
That's confusing as well.

You are getting AC at a switched outlet regardless of whether the switch is on or off?

Is this what you meant by "same for both positions"?
 
That's confusing as well.

You are getting AC at a switched outlet regardless of whether the switch is on or off?

Is this what you meant by "same for both positions"?

Yes, in either position, with the unit plugged in, I still get 124v
 
I think I should bow out now. I'm totally lost. Switched outlets showing voltage when the switch is off means either a) the outlet has been rewired to be unswitched, or b) the switch is staying closed regardless of whether it is in on or off position...in which case the switch is faulty AND there is a problem downstream that keeps the unit from working even though the switch is on (closed).

In any case, it's all academic. Your tech will be the one who figures it out.
 
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I think I should bow out now. I'm totally lost. Switched outlets showing voltage when the switch is off means either a) the outlet has been rewired to be unswitched, or b) the switch is staying closed regardless of whether it is in on or off position.

In any case, it's all academic. Your tech will be the one who figures it out.

I do appreciate the time and help you have put into this thread for me. Much appreciated. I will post later when I get back from the tech.

What’s great about this tech is he brings you to his bench area with your gear. Plugs it in and goes over things on the spot. There is no dropping it off and then leaving.
 
"The power switch has become faulty from it switching the power amp plugged into the switched outlets on the rear on and off, which over time will damage the contacts within the switch."
EDIT: Sorry, I looked up the wrong power amp. 250 specs below.

The switched AC outlets on the 3300 have a max power of 300W total. According to the specs for the Model 250, it is rated at 500W (presumably at full output power).
So, NO you should not connect it to the 3300 AC outlets on the back.

Screenshot 2025-07-04 082818.jpg
 
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EDIT: Sorry, I looked up the wrong power amp. 250 specs below.

The switched AC outlets on the 3300 have a max power of 300W total. According to the specs for the Model 250, it is rated at 500W (presumably at full output power).
So, NO you should not connect it to the 3300 AC outlets on the back.

View attachment 3544039

thank you for that info. I’m very curious what my tech is gonna say about this switch after I explain what you guys have helped me with. Hopefully it decides not to turn on when it’s on his bench. I might take a video of it not working before I leave.
 
I would make sure the tech knows the following:
  1. The unit works intermittently when the switch is in the on (closed) position. It never works when the switch is in the off (open) position.
  2. When the unit is plugged in, the unswitched outlet works consistently (that is, regardless of whether or not the unit is working).
  3. When the unit is plugged in, the switched outlets are showing voltage regardless of whether the switch is in the on (closed) or off (open) position (and regardless of whether or not the unit is working). This bit of information surfaced today, and was quite surprising.
These are all the facts that I can glean from your posts. Seem right?
 
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I would make sure the tech knows the following:
  1. The unit works intermittently when the switch is in the on (closed) position. It never works when the switch is in the off (open) position.
  2. When the unit is plugged in, the unswitched outlet works consistently (that is, regardless of whether or not the unit is working).
  3. When the unit is plugged in, the switched outlets are showing voltage regardless of whether the switch is in the on (closed) or off (open) position (and regardless of whether or not the unit is working). This bit of information surfaced today, and was quite surprising.
These are all the facts that I can glean from your posts. Seem right?

ok so I just came back from the tech with a brand new and fully functional power switch. luckily the unit wasn't turning on when he sat it on his bench. he tested the switch and it was not working on one side of the switch and the other side of the with was fully open. he was perplexed at getting voltages whether the power button was engaged or not also. he said thats pretty rare for a switch to fail in that way.

he did everything right on the spot so im all good to go now.

have a great and safe 4th everybody. tomorrow I will be replacing the 14 guage speaker wire to 16 gauge, going to the 250. I will hook everything up and finally give it a proper listen. pretty excited as the power im sure is going to be a noticeable difference being that im coming from the 85wpc pioneer sx850 that I have been using.
 
The last thing I'll mention is that #1 and #3 (above) should be mutually exclusive. But they apparently are not. Very odd!
 
The last thing I'll mention is that #1 and #3 (above) should be mutually exclusive. But they apparently are not. Very odd!
Posted before I saw that it has already been repaired. Incredible service from your tech...and on a national holiday to boot.

I'm not sure I'd expect much from the additional power, although more headroom is always a good thing. The difference between 85 and 125 watts is only 1.7dB, which is equivalent to a 10% change in perceived loudness at maximum (unclipped) output...which is the only point at which the power difference comes into play. But of course the Marantz and the Pioneer may well have differences in their sound qualities (regardless of their difference in power output capability).
 
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Posted before I saw that it has already been repaired. Incredible service from your tech...and on a national holiday to boot.

I'm not sure I'd expect much from the additional power, although more headroom is always a good thing. The difference between 85 and 125 watts is only 1.7dB, which is equivalent to a 10% change in perceived loudness at maximum (unclipped) output. But of course the Marantz and the Pioneer may well have differences in their sound qualities.

yeah when he emailed me back yesterday and said he was gonna be open today I was surprised. I will reach out and let you know how she sounds.

thanks again everybody
 
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