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IMF owners thread!

I’ve pulled out my super compacts recently and made 2 changes. 1st the stands are on isolation discs, 2 pieces of aluminum with 3 ball bearings sandwiches in between, I have floating wood floors and I’ve placed them right up against the wall. I feel like I e accidentally dialed them In perfect they sound so good huge open expansive That’s all. Hope the other IMF listeners are doing well.
 
My schematic skills have certainly gone down hill since age has kicked in!!! The eyes don't work as well as they used to. I drew out what I can from the MDKT boards. I am not sure what the values are on the inductors, 2 air 2 iron in my case. Let me know if anyone can make heads or tails out of this mess. I am just not sure if any of the drivers are wired out of phase as I see some
are on other schematics. Thanks Slofut for replying!
hand drawing mdkt.jpg
 
slofut said:
Idk if this will help... View attachment 2717968
Click to expand...

My issue with my speakers are the tweeter and super tweeter on the left crossover are wire out of phase or in reverse at the crossover pad vs the right. I am not sure which way is correct so I can at least get a starting point. I see that some of the TLS80 and RSPM schematics show the mid out of phase or reversed and the tweeter as well on some. I really need to know which pads on the crossover are positive and which negative, and how these were wired from new. Thanks for posting.
 
slofut said:
You're very welcome, glad to help. I'm not sure what you're asking about the circuit on back of the inputs. You mean on the back side of the binding posts there is a circuit board? If that's the case I didn't know about it, and if there is I'd love to know what components are on it and what it's for. My speakers are MkIII RSPM, woodgrain formica covered.
Click to expand...

Yes some have a circuit on the back of the binding posts, I am not exactly sure what it was for but there is a + - and flat switch above the speaker connections, I think mainly on the 80's. I only asked that because I was not sure where the large brown and red wires go to on your crossovers that are soldered to the LC-M and LC-T pads. I do not have those wires on my crossovers. My C/O have 2 jumper wires that connect the mid and tweeters to the ground path. I ordered an esr and lcr meter and should have that by the weekend to measure everything and hopefully prepare a proper schematic for mine and hopefully others can use it as well. Jerry got back to me from Falcon and my parts will be shipped out soon. I picked up a set of tls80's and RSPM Mark IV's as well in the past month. I am currently using the 80's and they are fabulous.
 
IMF_Pioneer said:
someone's been in there before as IMF have never used Utilux crimp connectors, everything was soldered by them.
Click to expand...

Yes someone has definitely been in there before, the original midranges are gone and so are the original crossovers. Have MONOCOR's MSH-115 replacements for the original 4/200's, a schematic and just waiting on a couple of capacitors to get the crossovers back to where they belong, have everything else
 
beekeo said:
Mine was just glued to the insulation

when I replaced it after recapping I used Velcro tape to hold it in place but still make it easy to remove in the future

i would be curious/concerned if those metal clips might rattle against the PCB
Click to expand...

According to the image in the link below, it looks like these clips are for securing zip ties under the foam rubber and then holding the board in place on top of the foam rubber.

https://www.stereonet.com/forums/topic/99842-imf-cm-3-new-old-speakers-from-garage-sale/

I've actually been on that thread before trying to find information on the crossovers, mine is the very last entry and the first one since around 2016
 
slofut said:
Wow, you did well to get a pair of MKIV's. You'll love the rspm's. So, since you've mentioned it I remember there are Mid and Top controls (pots) beside my binding posts on the back of the cabinet, so I'm sure that's what the LC-M ans LC-T pads are for.
Click to expand...

Do you recall if the pots or switches were in the binding post cup, or were they installed in the back of the cabinet in 2 separate holes. I have 2 holes in the back of each speaker on mine that were plugged. I was not sure what these holes were used for. You can see the 2 plugged holes in the attached picture. Yes I was really happy to find the rspm and within 72 hours of posting the want ad. I plugged them in but they did not sound right, so I am just waiting for the cap kit, and will go through them.
 

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The tone control is in the center of the binding post cup with mine, where that standard flat-head screw is in yours, but it also has symbols for the three positions

The plugged holes in my cabinets are where someone had bypassed the tweeters (with lamp
wire!) in favor of something mounted on top

1909944A-B28E-4D6B-A338-00481FFC6349.jpeg
 
beekeo said:
The tone control is in the center of the binding post cup with mine, where that standard flat-head screw is in yours, but it also has symbols for the three positions

The plugged holes in my cabinets are where someone had bypassed the tweeters (with lamp
wire!) in favor of something mounted on top

View attachment 2728476
Click to expand...

Yes I have the same binding posts on my TLS 80's. I did find a pic on line last evening for the Pro MK 1 speakers that had a square binding post panel with 2 switches and then screw terminals to the right of those for connecting speakers.
 
@Yvan_donald @slofut This is where I get confused on these crossovers. On Slofut's crossover pic I determined the super tweeter is out of phase at the crossover, IF the wiring at the driver is red to + and black to -. I am looking at the pro series crossover that yvan posted on page 32 and the tweet and the mid seemed to be wired out of phase and the super tweeter is not. But now that I see that you guys also have the boost, cut and flat switch on the input panel, I am not sure how that was wired at the panel. I have laid out on Yvan crossover pic how or what I determined to be positive and negative on the C/O.
 

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I guess I am going to be busy this weekend. I can't wait to hear those RSPM MKIV's! Three pair of speakers to re-cap. I am looking for some suggestions on cleaning the glue and junk off the back of the crossovers, and which internal wire is suggested. I was just going to get some O2 free copper 14-16 Ga, but I have seen that some suggest solid core wire. Falcon shipment is out for delivery!!!
upload_2022-12-7_11-11-8.png
 
IMF_Pioneer said:
Thinners will remove the old glue off the boards
Click to expand...

Thanks, Yes I brought a few thinners home from the shop with me. I will test a few little areas to test what works best. I have re-glued the Formica on the MDKT to make sure the backs are sealed up. I will change those caps first, as those are the ones, I have found missing some low bass notes that i am familiar with hearing from my test tracks.
 
Well I am up and at it early I got one of the MDKT's torn down, and all the wiring removed. I may be shutdown right out of the gate. this is what I noticed on the 139 driver and I am not sure how to fix it both wires on this driver are the same. Thanks in advance. Should there not be some kind of back or a cup on the tweeter?
 

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Just use a dab of solder to affix the two wires together . at later date you could buy new speaker lead's and take apart the woofer to do it. But I think a quick solder repair should do well.

Athanasios
 
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