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IMF owners thread!

Just use a dab of solder to affix the two wires together . at later date you could buy new speaker lead's and take apart the woofer to do it. But I think a quick solder repair should do well.

Athanasios
They are actually not broken the speaker ohms out at around 7.8 to 7.9 depending on meter used. They seem to be embedded in the spider but very near the edge of it.
 
They are actually not broken the speaker ohms out at around 7.8 to 7.9 depending on meter used. They seem to be embedded in the spider but very near the edge of it.


Hmm maybe it was intended to be like that. But I do not remember mine being embedded when I repaired one that was broken.

Athanasios
 
One down one to go. These were beat up pretty bad and damping modified alot. I pulled the insulation out completely and kept adding back until it seemed to voice properly the lower damping does not seem to have been removed. Rewired all the drivers except the tweeter, did not want to play with those ones. Crossovers came out very nicely. I played a couple tracks and I can say they seem to be sounding fine now. Can't wait to finish the other one tomorrow. From all my research with these early crossovers, I flipped the phase on the mid to start out.
 

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The MDKT are up and running and sounding really nice. Upon first listen they were closed in with no stage, so I flipped the phase on the mids back to normal and they opened up and the stage was huge. I am not sure why some say these designs do not image well, I have them angled in maybe a 1/4" or so and they are perfect. The bass is back as well, tight, floor shaking and accurate.
 
I just pulled the crossovers out of the RSPM MKIV's. I am wondering why there are colored dots on one end of some of the caps. I thought polarity did not matter with these?
 

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I think non polar caps have a polar tendency when checked on a scope, those are marked + on both ends and are non-polarized for sure but I have a feeling the dots are there for a different reason, but if they were that picky they may have scoped them and marked.

I think by looking at a couple of the crossover drawings, the color dots were for the values as they were not listed on the schematic but in a legend below.
 
Polarity on midrange in Compact Monitor 2?
I've come in possession of a pair of Compact Monitor 2.
The midranges needed new surrounds, as they often do, but when I unscrewed them to replace the surrounds, I discovered that the mids were connected differently. For unknown reasons, spades is fitted, so it's probably not a IMF's fault.
View attachment 2404890
There is a red and a green wire, and my first impulse was to connect the red wire to the red terminal, but is that how the IMF has intended it?
Is there anyone here in the thread, who knows how IMF has connected the mids i Compact Monitor 2?

As you may know, those mid's are worth their weight in gold, at least figuratively. Needed a pair for my CM3'S but couldn't find them anywhere, finally did find a bespoke replacement from MONACOR in their MSH-115. They sound pretty good but never had the opportunity to hear the original 4/200's to compare, currently I have a 3 Ohm resister to tame the mid's a bit. I had a sweep done with a 2 Ohm resister because I didn't have a three at the time and the sweep agreed with what I was thinking. Congratulations on some very nice equipment!
 
so I just ordered a pair of these off of ebay, wasn't 100% awake so I didn't notice the model number discrepency
per this chart, 4/140 and 4/200's are both 4" drivers but the 140 and 200 refer to their resonant frequencies. so the 140 will sound/measure differently, but whether or not it would be audible to me is unknown.
hopefully they will fit better and sound better than the 4" bose drivers currently installed.
https://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/downloads/Elacimftdl.pdf

Hopefully being a midrange the resonant frequency won't adversely affect the sound, I ended up using MONACOR's MSH-115 which is a IMF 4/200 replacement from Falcon Acoustics. Just recently got them back together, currently I am using a 3 Ohm resister to tame them a bit and they sound quite good 16712514633358106152872019580602.jpg
 
Hi everyone!

Wonder if anyone has some insight into some early Tls 50 i recently picked up. They needed a little work, foam surrounds were gone. I also did a recap with the falcon caps. Everythings done! Upon listening, they sounded great. Well one did anyway. The other seemed to lack top end. After a couple mins, maybe 10-15 mins, the "better" one sounded like the "lesser" one. I pulled and tested both tweeters. The peerless was fine, but super tweeter was 44.5 ohms. That make sense? They both were. Unfortunately, i did not test them prior to running them. Which is funny cause i tested all the others.
 
Hi Clorey!

Which super tweeter is in that speaker, the Coles?
I think they are usually in 8 and 16 ohm versions and a reading that is way higher than I expect would make me suspicious too

are both super tweeters reading an identical 44.5 ohms?
 
Hi Clorey!

Which super tweeter is in that speaker, the Coles?
I think they are usually in 8 and 16 ohm versions and a reading that is way higher than I expect would make me suspicious too

are both super tweeters reading an identical 44.5 ohms?

Hi beekeo,

Yes, they're original coles. And they both read 44.5. Super weird! The readings will fluctuate if i move the coil. I checked all the others before doing any work, they were all within spec.

I got them off the original owner who had them stored, in there home/well cared for, for years. They've seen little use as they were in the sewing room. Could inactivity have any thing to do with it?
 
in my opinion, both tweeters reading 44.5 would eliminate damage or age/wear as I would expect the numbers to have deviated irregularly, but I'm no professional.

my ears are old enough that I can't rely on them to detect higher frequencies, SoundTools is an iPhone app that's been useful for this.
You can also try testing with playing frequency tones through the speakers, I used Function Generator on my iPad but there's also websites and "albums" on spotify etc.

If I had just done a recap and wasn't 100% happy with the results, I would double-check all of my work for a weak solder joint or loose connection.
Do your speakers have the tone controls on the back? could be that there's corrosion that would benefit from deoxit.
 
Yeah, i thought for sure i found the problem until they both read like that. I think i noticed it only because they were noticably different upon first listen.

Thanks for the heads up, i'll check those apps out.

Thats what i'm working on now, checking my work ( so far so good ) and cleaning the tone controls. I do have a capacitor across my speaker terminals, never seen this before. Looks like it's leaking. Didn't notice at first as these binding posts can't be removed from the back, had to go through the front and remove the baffles inside. Really tucked in there. Not sure replacing it will resolve anything, as i don't really understand what it's purpose is. But i'll give it a shot.

Thanks for the quick replies!
 
Oh I see, you’re looking at that paste around the edges of the WIMA one?

my falcon kit included caps for the tone controls, but the circuit design for the TLS-50 ii’s is completely different from your photo
 
Thats the one. They both look like that.

Yeah, i have the early version. Dated '73. I couldn't find an exact crossover schematic for this one. It's quite different from the TLS 50 ii crossover i have also.

I'm curious. Do you recall the value of the cap you put in? This one looks like 8.1 100v.20221110_094935.jpg
A pic of the crossover prior to recap.
 
from the photos I took last sping, it looks like a 6mfd and a 12 mfd on the toneboard pcb (plus several resistors)

there was just one of the yellow wima's, but that was on the main crossover circuit
 
When i got my recap kit from falcon, it included a 4mfd and a 12 mfd. I had no 4s anywhere in my circuit, but was short one 6 mfd. Maybe the 12 was for the tone board? it also only had one film (yellow) cap, which i switched one for one on the xover.

I guess i'll pull that cap out and see if i can get a value off it.
 
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