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Incoming B-6...Might be a basket case...will need Avionics help for sure !!! FIXED, again !!!

Ok , I got the Sanken transistors in over a week ago but decided to wait for the Toshiba transistors to come first and try those first.

A day or two after the video in the above post was made and with one half the amp with the 470 ohm resistors mimicking the transistors I was able to adjust DC offset however I still had trouble adjusting Bias to the service manuals 2.5 +/- .5 mv as earlier in this thread. There was adjustment now and back then but it stop adjusting at 1.5 mv. I could adjust back down to 0 or into the negative range but it stop at 1.4-1.5 with enough room on the trimpots to go higher but no change.

So I looked at TR 101 and 102 and both were fine however I did find a solder break on one of my repaired traces to one of those TR's . I fixed it and thought that may well be the issue. But still no luck. Just adjustable to 1.5 mv. I checked all the parts surrounding the trimpot on the schematic and all were ok and within specifications.

So I got the Toshibas in the other day , yesterday I spent time removing the originals and doing some trivial testing with my DCA 75. Now I realize this is not a proper curve tracer for power transistors but its what I have that I know is working correctly ( My Tektronix Type 575 Im not 100% sure is working properly and still an learning to use it ) . So the unknown Toshibas measured close to the ones that were in the unit. And I also measured the Sanken's and the curves for those were also similar , and seemed to have a bit higher hFe and higher results than both sets of the Toshiba's .
I also weighed the two sets and each transistor weighed 10 grams , I have read where fakes were less or more. These were spot on the same.

So this evening I installed the Toshibas and fired up the amp. All went well and nothing went wonky. DC adjusted fine but once again still not able to reach 2.5 mv for bias. So I did as before the current mishap adjusted to the 1.4 and then a little past on both sides. I monitored the power draw on my smart wall socket and power draw did not rise as I adjusted past the 1.4mv point. It was about 23 watts on the Revogi smart plug.

So thats all for today. Tomorrow I will clean it up to remove the smudged thermal paste and then try to pas sound and see if those Toshibas are indeed originals .

Unless the knowledge base here thinks I should see why I can't adjust the bias to spec. I do not think a lower bias would hurt but then again what do I know ;)

New unvetted Toshibas on the left, originals as found in unit on the right.

53621537436_d97bbf566c_h.jpg



Athanasios
 
Hi folks, right after I posted the last post a bad cold/fever hit me like a freight train.
Besides having to work Sunday and Monday I have been sleeping/resting the rest of the time. So I did not get to test the amp with music till just now as I felt well enough to at least put the bonnet back on and hook up speakers and my iPhone as the source.

Well all works as should !!! :D And I believe those Toshibas from china are original as I can not tell any difference IMO sound wise from left to right speaker .

Maybe if I feel better I'll scope a wave form and see how it looks .

But for now All's well that end's well :D :banana::banana::banana:

Athanasios
 
There are counterfeits that can work more or less well, but they usually have a smaller die than the original, and they can fail under load.
I would do some testing increasing the load gradually.
 
There are counterfeits that can work more or less well, but they usually have a smaller die than the original, and they can fail under load.
I would do some testing increasing the load gradually.

That is what fear , but I played it louder than I normally listen for about 1/2 hour and nothing showed up strange sounding.

I put them up to the originals and really looked them over and they looked identical and weighed exactly 10gr as the originals. That gave me some confidence to
fire it up. And if anything happens I still have those Sankens as spares .

nashou
 
So, it's been a minute. Is your B-6 still working well?

As you know I am working on one now that has some blown outputs, so will have to decide what to do about that. Do you still think the outputs you bought are not counterfeits?
 
So, it's been a minute. Is your B-6 still working well?

As you know I am working on one now that has some blown outputs, so will have to decide what to do about that. Do you still think the outputs you bought are not counterfeits?

I have not done more listening than the half hour to hour after the repair . But I think they are originals as I weighed them against the originals and the die thickness was the same as well as weight .

maybe I'll hook it up tonight and listen more while I do some work on the Sansui BA-1000 V-fet I'm rebuilding .

Athanasios
 
@Asmodeus2112 , Iv'e been playing the amp for a little over an hour and it's sounding very nice . So far so good. I'm going to let it play more .
I do believe those Toshibas I got are original.

PS: Just looked up my purchase on E-bay and WOW they raised the price on them ALOT !!!! I got 2 sets for 41 bucks and now a pair is 100 bucks!!!! They must be getting low on stock or my post increased their sales of them so they jacked up the price . Not sure why but damn !!!!

Athanasios
 
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Does one of the valued gentlemen remember the exact size of the PS filter caps of the B-6, especially the large 12000uF cans?
 
Does one of the valued gentlemen remember the exact size of the PS filter caps of the B-6, especially the large 12000uF cans?
I think this will fit


100mm in height Avionic would know for sure.

Athanasios
 
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Thank you both, highly appreciated! I found a nice Mundorf as a replacement for the 6800 uF capacitor. Same size, 63V, but 10.000 uF. Do you think the higher capacitance is OK for the rectifiers.?
 
Won't fit:(. Just tried them. The physical size is OK, but the pitch is 10 mm (need 20mm).
Cant you drill out the PCB to make them work? Or add the legs of other parts to extend them to the 20mm holes? I have done this before


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I found out that I cannot adjust the bias properly. With the black probe to TP3 (-) and the red to tp TP2 (+) I can only adjust negative values (-2.5V). Identical situation on the other side. If I turn the Bourns multiturn trimpots completely countercockwise, as stated in the SM, I do not get more than 1.3V. What is wrong here?
 
Cant you drill out the PCB to make them work? Or add the legs of other parts to extend them to the 20mm holes? I have done this before


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Usually I am very creative in drilling holes in pcb's to make components fit, but here it seems not possible because of limited space. I love my Dremel.
 
I found out that I cannot adjust the bias properly. With the black probe to TP3 (-) and the red to tp TP2 (+) I can only adjust negative values (-2.5V). Identical situation on the other side. If I turn the Bourns multiturn trimpots completely countercockwise, as stated in the SM, I do not get more than 1.3V. What is wrong here?


I had the same issue , I just went to 1.3 and up a little more.

Next time I do bias I'm hooking it up to a signal generator and a scope and adjust till the wave form looks good .

Ray does this in this video, might work for this as well

 
I had the same issue , I just went to 1.3 and up a little more.

Next time I do bias I'm hooking it up to a signal generator and a scope and adjust till the wave form looks good .

Ray does this in this video, might work for this as well

In all amplifiers I have adjusted it was the case that turning the trimpots clockwise increased the bias. In the B-6 it should be different? I am asking myself if the SM is wrong.
 
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