brunomarcs
Well-Known Member
I have to have me a pair of these. What is your impressions of them?
Infinity RS2.5 - fully working and ready to be renewed
- Thread starter Martynka
- Start date
Martynka
Well-Known Member
About RS2.5 ??
I am very impressed. Much nicer in sound to me than the Infinity R90. I can listen to them all day and they don't tire me, I still want more and more. The high tones don't hurt your ears and the bass can even kill you if you want to. I was skeptical when I bought them. It wasn't love at first sight (this look) but the sound convinced me. Now, after my work with wood, they are beautiful to me. First I powered them with a tube amplifier but the HF sucked all the power. They started to sound good with Yamaha witch have extended treble ranges. When I connected RS2.5 to two amplifiers, they started sound like no other speakers I've ever had. On RS2.5 it was the first time I heard such a large soundstage with my modified ARCAM Alpha 5 + CD player. Awesome.
rollcentre
Boom-tizzz
I just picked up a pair of these. Mine are a bit rough, so going thru your thread gives me good inspiration to clean them up. The watkins bass drivers were wired up wrong and the bass was weak. I fixed that and the LF came alive in a way I have not heard before! I have one EMIM that has a break in the mylar on the diaphragm. I was thinking of doing a repair with that conductive paint they use to repair traces.
Power will be with a pair of mcintosh MC2300 in mono mode for 600wpc. Or a pair of restored Phase Linear 400, which could make up to 900 wpc into 2 ohms. I'll try vertical bi amp with those. I wonder if they would be happier with the higher damping factor of the phase linear amps
Very fun speakers!
Power will be with a pair of mcintosh MC2300 in mono mode for 600wpc. Or a pair of restored Phase Linear 400, which could make up to 900 wpc into 2 ohms. I'll try vertical bi amp with those. I wonder if they would be happier with the higher damping factor of the phase linear amps
Very fun speakers!
brunomarcs
Well-Known Member
The only ones I seen for sale are on eBay in rough shape and far away.
GD70
Lunatic Member
Beautiful work! Speaker cabinet restoration is one of my favorite aspects of speaker restoration!Thanks, but will look beautiful when I finish
I'm love wooden work in speakers. Here are few of my finished work :
You didn't want to look at these speakers before my work. Fully work documentation of most of this are on audiokarma forum. I know RS2.5 will be my best looking job.
They sound right, but I'm sure can sound better. I have good experience with few type of caps. I want replace 1100 uF and 700 uF with Mundorf Mlythic MLGO HV - 450V. Always then I used it bass was stronger and more powerfull. On EMIT I want use Clarity Cap or Auricap XO. I still think about 125 uF caps. I know it will be 1/5 speakers price but I know that sound will be better.
I read this thread when I seen a set of 2.5's in my area for less then the bay prices. I cannot take on another project for a while, but they don't come up too often, and this is the type of speaker the wife wouldn't mine me having in the living room. (heh, I say that, but at the same time, I'm not putting them in there at the moment) ... humor. I also look for the 4.5's as well. Even more rare.
Beautiful restoration work.
Garry~
Beautiful restoration work.
Garry~
rollcentre
Boom-tizzz
I notice the same. Really, with the EMIMs- Turning the L-pad up for the mids seems to build more heat in the output section of my amplifiers. Backing it down, the heatsinks cool back down. It's no a lab setting with test tones, just playing music in my room, but it was a very noticeable difference to me.
Bobbyd38
AVA • American Vintage Audio
I REALLY like the look after you “Polished”!! Please tell me your Definition of “Polished”? They look Sanded to me, or am I missing something, what technique did you use?Ok, Thanks. I was shocked when I removed it from speaker:
I finished wooden work. I was afraid about woofer condition because of rust outside:
But inside everything like new:
I repair it later, first oak.
I removed upper piece of RS2.5, and polished all surfaces. Here few photo from work:
After polished it oak was clean without colour blur. Looks like new. Here with old one on left side:
but wood need some new oil and wax layer to stay in good condition next 40 years. I used hard wax on oil in natural colour from OSMO company. Excellent effect. Nice in touch and beautiful in look. Comparison with old one ( old one still on left ):
And photo in 3 steps:
1) Old:
2) Polished:
3) With first layer of wax with oil:
Now I will clean and paint Watkins. After that, second layer wax with oil and and assembly everything.
VERY NICE WORK! I love my RS2.5’s, they were my first Infinity’s and what got me hooked!!
BTW, I reverse engineered both the EMIT and EMIM Diaphragms www.AmericanVintageAudio.com
Martynka
Well-Known Member
Ok. Maybe I should use "sanded"
I always use sand paper nr 80 at start to remove old oil, varnish and dirt. Next, sand paper nr 120 to remove scratches. At finish I use paper nr 240 or sometimes ScotchBrite. After that, wood or veneer surface is very smooth and nice in touch. To protect wood from moisture and other dirt I use oil and natural wax. After few layers I use cotton pads to polish... and it is all.
The Mundorf’s you listed are polar and I believe you need nonpolar? I believe you wantThanks, but will look beautiful when I finish
I'm love wooden work in speakers. Here are few of my finished work :
You didn't want to look at these speakers before my work. Fully work documentation of most of this are on audiokarma forum. I know RS2.5 will be my best looking job.
They sound right, but I'm sure can sound better. I have good experience with few type of caps. I want replace 1100 uF and 700 uF with Mundorf Mlythic MLGO HV - 450V. Always then I used it bass was stronger and more powerfull. On EMIT I want use Clarity Cap or Auricap XO. I still think about 125 uF caps. I know it will be 1/5 speakers price but I know that sound will be better.
Mundorf E-Cap AC Series Electrolytic Capacitors which are bipolar. Even better to use polypropylene film caps but you will need to stack up smaller values in series reach the values you need.
Martynka
Well-Known Member
Thanks, but not only speaker cabinet, now I finished Pioneer TT. Plinth was damaged and vinyl starts to separate from the surface.
I made new one from walnut veneer
Sorry for off topic but I wanted to show you my last work.
Last edited:
Nice choice on caps.
I went with Jantzen Superior Z's on my RS iiia's.
No regrets.
MDL electrolytics on the bass section.
Van Alstine 10RB tube pre-and H/K PA2400 amp.
These speakers are very transparent, but unlike say, more then a few Klipsch horn speakers I've had in the past- are never really piercingly like a horn-if you have the proper driving equipment.
I went with Jantzen Superior Z's on my RS iiia's.
No regrets.
MDL electrolytics on the bass section.
Van Alstine 10RB tube pre-and H/K PA2400 amp.
These speakers are very transparent, but unlike say, more then a few Klipsch horn speakers I've had in the past- are never really piercingly like a horn-if you have the proper driving equipment.
Sure
Nothing like a good high powered amp
I run a H/K Sig 1.5-Made by the same factory that makes Mark Levison- I power my modded ESS AMT3’s.with it( combo system
36 output transistors it’s a beast.
Loafs 99% of the time
If I run across another one at a good price I may pick one up and swap and power the Infinity’s. 700 wpc mono.
Nothing like a good high powered amp
I run a H/K Sig 1.5-Made by the same factory that makes Mark Levison- I power my modded ESS AMT3’s.with it( combo system
36 output transistors it’s a beast.
Loafs 99% of the time
If I run across another one at a good price I may pick one up and swap and power the Infinity’s. 700 wpc mono.