Is a 25watt soldering iron enough
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petehall347
the brandy coffee man
had a 25w and couldn't get on with it ..ok for one de-solder then wait for warm up . have a 30w now it can do unsolder and solder one joint then warm up time . i am not in a rush .. bearing in mind my mains power is low ...
if was doing fast work then 35w or 40w might be my choice .
or just get a station with variable power . choose your own pace .
tip sizes seem to make a difference too .
if was doing fast work then 35w or 40w might be my choice .
or just get a station with variable power . choose your own pace .
tip sizes seem to make a difference too .
Last edited:
BobbyBluz
Super Member
I bought a variable power soldering station off Ebay a few years ago for $19.95 that's done an amazing job for the price since then. It came with six tips in varying sizes and all have survived well. The last time I looked it was $29.98 and is still a bargain at that price.
BillyBatts
ALOHA!
As stated above, it's marginal, but really depends on your application. It may work but will probably be on the lean side. A 40 Watter would be my minimum for most repair work if I only could choose one wattage.
I've been building and repairing Amateur Radios for so long I can't keep track, but I know I have (besides the variable) a 100 watt gun, a 60 watt gun a 40 watt iron and a 25 watt iron for delicate work that can't take and doesn't need a lot of heat. I also have one of those old Radio Shack screw in modular watt irons where you can change the wattage by replacing the element that screws in to the body of the iron like a light bulb. I've got multiple heat elements for that.
I've been building and repairing Amateur Radios for so long I can't keep track, but I know I have (besides the variable) a 100 watt gun, a 60 watt gun a 40 watt iron and a 25 watt iron for delicate work that can't take and doesn't need a lot of heat. I also have one of those old Radio Shack screw in modular watt irons where you can change the wattage by replacing the element that screws in to the body of the iron like a light bulb. I've got multiple heat elements for that.
If it's what you have and you only have very little work to do, it might be ok. I have 3 variable heat ones (one 40, a 70 and one unknown).
I wonder what my Dad's homemade one was? Probably 100 watts I bet. It had something like #3 gauge secondary wire on it.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=557420
I wonder what my Dad's homemade one was? Probably 100 watts I bet. It had something like #3 gauge secondary wire on it.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=557420
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Nope ... especially trying to work on the old point to point connections. Just too much mass to heat, and not enough iron to heat it with. You can also expect ridiculous amounts of time for the a small iron to get back up to temp between connections. A cold iron is also especially bad for PCBs, as it's a lot easier to lift a trace because of the amount of time it takes to flow the solder.
Gonna do it, do it right, eh. I'm spoiled rotten with a good soldering station, but given your current choices, I'd stick with the 60 watter - maybe a new tip if it needs it, and make sure it's clean and well tinned at all times.
Gonna do it, do it right, eh. I'm spoiled rotten with a good soldering station, but given your current choices, I'd stick with the 60 watter - maybe a new tip if it needs it, and make sure it's clean and well tinned at all times.
Sigh.. Bought a Weller 25 watter in '71
Been using it for Decades.
It DOES all of what the above posters claim it doesn't do... happily.
It does however require 5+ min warmup.. but then it IS almost 50 yrs old :- ).
And yes I have a a few other higher rated Irons which Rarely get use.. even then only for soldering Battery pack wirings.
Been using it for Decades.
It DOES all of what the above posters claim it doesn't do... happily.
It does however require 5+ min warmup.. but then it IS almost 50 yrs old :- ).
And yes I have a a few other higher rated Irons which Rarely get use.. even then only for soldering Battery pack wirings.
My Hakko is I believe 60 watts, though its temperature controlled so it won't roast things. It doesn't get cold and freeze itself into joints though. I'd be very much OK with reccomending one or a comparable soldering station if you want to do serious work. For years I had basic 25-35 watt irons and until I got something good, I didn't know what I was missing. Now, frankly I don't know how I got along without a good iron.
For extensive de-soldering stuff, if you can swing a desoldering iron I'd get one. I have a Hakko 808 that just rocks, and I'm told the replacement for the 808 is even better. They are absolute magic on circuit boards, and it makes for cleaner work on point to point stuff too. No blobs of solder to get out of the way, etc.
For extensive de-soldering stuff, if you can swing a desoldering iron I'd get one. I have a Hakko 808 that just rocks, and I'm told the replacement for the 808 is even better. They are absolute magic on circuit boards, and it makes for cleaner work on point to point stuff too. No blobs of solder to get out of the way, etc.
whoaru99
Epic Member
I've found that at my pace a 15W iron works fine for most PCB work and much point to point work as long as there isn't a ton of connections or thick wires on the terminals/lugs.
If the wires/leads are heavy, or maybe like larger snap-in caps and power resistors, or many connections on the lugs I'll use a 40W pencil iron.
If it's really big stuff like some direct to chassis lugs, then I may use the Weller 8200 gun at 100/140 watts.
If the wires/leads are heavy, or maybe like larger snap-in caps and power resistors, or many connections on the lugs I'll use a 40W pencil iron.
If it's really big stuff like some direct to chassis lugs, then I may use the Weller 8200 gun at 100/140 watts.
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
My new favorite tool is the BenchPro SA6-R desoldering iron from Jameco for $30.
Website says 30 watts but my Kill-A-Watt rates mine at 42. Heats fast - set the tip, give it a slight twist to break the crust, push the button, and pOOf ... the solder's gone. :thmbsp:
My old bulb type RatShack would take forever to heat, but this one is ready in a couple minutes and recovers fast as long as you keep the tip cleaned and tinned. Also a straight shot to the connection - that's a lot easier to work with than the 90 degree tip on the Ratshack. Replaceable tip too, which is a nice feature.
BillyBatts
ALOHA!
Yea, I have to invest in one. I've been using Solder "Wick" for so long, it's ridiculous. Time to step into the 21st Century with de-soldering.
Looks like just the ticket, Skizo. Thanks for the tip.
Looks like just the ticket, Skizo. Thanks for the tip.
I've used those solder sucker things. Not nearly as good as a real vacuum pump on point to point stuff. Does OK on PCB work but if you're doing a lot of it, you'll get tired of re-loading that thing right quick. It really boils down to how much time you spend doing this stuff. For me, I waste enough time out here to justify it. I've certainly gotten my money's worth out of my 808.
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Good option, but the lil Jameco does the dirty for me. Last project was a Sansui QRX 9001 with something like 260 caps and a bunch of fusible resistors that were replaced, as well as the dreaded dolby board pinning, and it did an admirable job.
Point to point, I just use a wide tip iron under the connection and flick the blobs on the floor. Which brings to mind a very important tip ... always wear pants when working with solder! <G>
Point to point, I just use a wide tip iron under the connection and flick the blobs on the floor. Which brings to mind a very important tip ... always wear pants when working with solder! <G>
