Ryan Walton
Active Member
I appreciate all your help. Are all these measurements telling you anything though?
Okay, so I think I may have found some (4?) diodes in this picture... which one is d27 though? You can also see the fuses at the top of the pic. Also, what is that white rectangle directly below the bottom most fuse with the metal piece on top that says "577" on it? Because it looks like from the schematic d27 should be right about there?
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I've got some deoxit on the way... anything else you recommend to clean up the board while I wait for that?Take a brush and clean that board. It would be easy to find parts and connections on PCB.
I can't thank Pete enough and I do hope he knows that. I've already learned way more than I ever knew and even if we dont get it fixed i'm eternally grateful for the knowledge.@petehall347 as someone you helped out several times in the past I just wanted to say your input in this thread is awesome. I hope the OP appreciates your considerable help and remembers that a little patience goes a long way![]()
In this thread, Mark is asking the OP to take DCv of those diodes... why are we taking ac?see if this makes sense to you .
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sa-7800-relay-wont-click.200669/#post-2356408
one side AC the other DC . as soon as AC is restored to d30 there is a very good chance the DC voltages will come back ok and the unit will work again .In this thread, Mark is asking the OP to take DCv of those diodes... why are we taking ac?
find where the bad connection is between d30 cathode and fuse 3 .d30 remains the same... d28 anode and d30 cathode are both 47.3v
Here is the setting I have my DMM when testing these diodes
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And how do i do that Pete?find where the bad connection is between d30 cathode and fuse 3 .
with your meter set on low ohms and follow the path from d30 to fuse 3 . mains power off and unplugged .its probably bad solder . your meter will show you where it loses connection .And how do i do that Pete?