Thanks for the comments guys!
Well, I took pics of the individual caps when I bound them together before tinning them together. Other than that I was kinda in a groove, and didn't slow down to take the pics... which happens a lot. I intend to fully document stuff, and while I'm doing it, I don't want to tempt fate and stop...
All-in-all it was a fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants operation that was helped along by gonzomeep and zilch helping to ensure that the parts I was going to use would actually work!
Oh, and the foam discs came in for the tweeters. They fit, but they are Part Number 53363 with a Description of 'FOAM RING, LE25-2'. So, I don't really know if they are the proper foam density or whatever they'd change on them between the LE25 and the LE25-2.
I'll be editing some pics into this post as they get uploaded...
EDIT: I forgot to mention the things I learned... I'm just throwing things out there randomly, so you may want to read them all before you think this is a step by step...
I have a Chinese made P.O.S. digital temperature adjustable soldering iron from RadioShack that cost me like $70, it was set to 650 °F. I also had a desoldering braid, a forceps used for a heat sink, rosin core solder, and rosin all from RadioShack. And a couple of Crescent brand little things that were PERFECT for the little work (removing the original cap wires from blobs of molten solder, and wire snipping ect.).
To remove the original cardboard caps, I just wedged something in between them, and twisted it like I was shucking an oyster(which I've never done, but I've seen it on TV), a bit of the board came off, but was pretty much entirely whole gob of glue with both caps.
By the second network, I didn't bother with desoldering any of the wires except the power wires on the little terminal board thingummy, and the common ground for the L-Pads. I just clipped the rest as near to the L-Pad as possible, while leaving a little insulation for later identification (which I referred back to A LOT).
I used new 24 AWG hookup wire for the caps, and the existing wires for the rest of the connections. (Some originals were 1/2" shorter than in the beginning) I suppose you could use all existing wire, if you were careful, but I had the hookup wire available from other projects.
I soldered 2 long leads of 24 AWG hookup wire back into the power wire terminal board thing, and 2 on to the L-Pads. I replaced the L-pads one at a time, resoldering the connections as I went. For some reason I went from the mid to the hi, and it seemed to work out quite well, but whatever. Then, after I had the L-Pads replaced, I glued on the pre-bound, and tinned caps. This left me with four leads, and the caps installed. All I had to do then, was route the wires where I wanted them, cut, strip, tin and solder them to the caps. Making sure to match wire colors! I then finally clipped the ends of the caps off.
]
