JBL L 250 A New Addition To My System

[4-2-7]

I'm not sure I'm the guy to quote about leaving them as original. That thread was about my own l250s becoming 250ti's using a custom xover designed and built by a member of the Lansing heritage community. I never warmed to the LE5 and started modding my speakers soon after I got them. First came the 104h, then 044ti's and those xovers. Even now I continue to experiment - this year saw the low-pass xover board getting bypassed and replaced with full active xover and eq on the low end.

I hope to get my 044ti's refoamed soon as they have become brighter over time. There is always something that needs to be done...

Jblnut

Hi jblnut,
I was just commenting on your first attempt that you talked about at the other site. Not trying to quote you verbatim nor any disrespect and it was 10 years ago since that attempt. I have also read that others have started doing mods and not been happy with the end results or never had a reference point.

So here I am, I think I need them just working first. I'll get them looking pretty, refoam and new fabric. I was thinking of just changing the T.I. blue caps to new ones for right now. I'll be going by a local electronics store today and see what they have. Also Im so new to this there is so much I do not understand yet.

You do have a trick hot rodded set now:thmbsp:

 

[4-2-7]

The original network is just fine, actually very good. That's why if I were going to make a change it would need to have a significant potential for improvement. To support the N250TI you would also need to replace your HF and midrange drivers with the 044Ti and 104H. The 044Ti was used by other speakers in the Ti series so it can be found, but the 104H is very hard to locate.

JBL engineers used the least expensive components that would get the job done as long as sound quality was not compromised. I would not be afraid of the electrolytics they used or the bypass caps. They did move to Solen as used in the link I posted for their higher end designs at some point after the Ti series. The Solen caps do not need bypass caps.

I really do not understand much of this yet. A few part swaps is one thing and modding is another. I be keeping it pretty simple at first and just get them singing.

 

[4-2-7]

That's a nice job! Note the inductor change at the bottom.

Ya he did good and I do see the swap with the inductor. I'll be looking to see what my local electronics store has today for some small parts. I can ask if they have Solen caps

 

[tomlinmgt]

The Jantzen Superior Z-caps Zonker used in his recap are very nice caps and reasonably priced. I used them for the EMITs when I recapped my Infinity QLS-1's and was pleased with the results.

 

[4-2-7]

The Jantzen Superior Z-caps Zonker used in his recap are very nice caps and reasonably priced. I used them for the EMITs when I recapped my Infinity QLS-1's and was pleased with the results.

I just called my local electronics store they do not have any audiophile caps. I'll need some links to order on line. They can be done later as Im moving fast on the refinishing. The foam will be hear monday as well. Hay I can call my MaIntosh dealer they service and are open on the weekends.

 

[Uncle Paul]

I just called my local electronics store they do not have any audiophile caps. I'll need some links to order on line. They can be done later as Im moving fast on the refinishing. The foam will be hear monday as well. Hay I can call my MaIntosh dealer they service and are open on the weekends.

Here are a few:

www.percyaudio.com
www.partsexpress.com
www.madisound.com
www.partsconnexion.com
http://solen.ca/pub/index.php?s1=1

The Dayton brand of caps at Parts Express are made for them by Bennic.

Happy hunting!

 

[4-2-7]

Here are a few:

www.percyaudio.com
www.partsexpress.com
www.madisound.com
www.partsconnexion.com
http://solen.ca/pub/index.php?s1=1

The Dayton brand of caps at Parts Express are made for them by Bennic.

Happy hunting!

Thanks I'll look and can probably get help on the phone.

 

[jblnut]

Hi jblnut,
I was just commenting on your first attempt that you talked about at the other site. Not trying to quote you verbatim nor any disrespect and it was 10 years ago since that attempt. I have also read that others have started doing mods and not been happy with the end results or never had a reference point.

So here I am, I think I need them just working first. I'll get them looking pretty, refoam and new fabric. I was thinking of just changing the T.I. blue caps to new ones for right now. I'll be going by a local electronics store today and see what they have. Also Im so new to this there is so much I do not understand yet.

You do have a trick hot rodded set now:thmbsp:

Good plan - get them back to 100% and then decide if you like the flavor or not. They are very good stock and my own mods shouldn't be taken as any kind of knock on the original design. Truth be told I do miss the original 044 aluminum tweeter on certain music, although I've long forgotten the LE5.

I did all of my changes very slowly and methodically, as I still do 10 years later. I find its best to hear the result of changes on lots of different music, at lots of different volumes and on different days/times when I'm in different moods. Only after it passes all tests does it stay and get :thmbsp:.

Keep us posted - always fun to see someone else discover these great speakers.

jblnut

 

[4-2-7]

Good plan - get them back to 100% and then decide if you like the flavor or not. They are very good stock and my own mods shouldn't be taken as any kind of knock on the original design. Truth be told I do miss the original 044 aluminum tweeter on certain music, although I've long forgotten the LE5.

I did all of my changes very slowly and methodically, as I still do 10 years later. I find its best to hear the result of changes on lots of different music, at lots of different volumes and on different days/times when I'm in different moods. Only after it passes all tests does it stay and get :thmbsp:.

Keep us posted - always fun to see someone else discover these great speakers.

jblnut

Thanks jblnut,
Yep not even into these 24 hours yet. I could own the last faithful set who knows.:scratch2:

I was wondering about the serial numbers on the speaker cabinets. Is there a way of knowing time of manufacturing, were they fall in line of unit numbers.

Cabinets serial #
10220
10175

044 both Nov.24th 82 (Gold Color Domes)
LE5-11 both 4/2/82
108-H both Oct. 14th 82

Woofers serial #
10462
10685

With this info my cabinets were assembled some time after 11/24/82

 

[4-2-7]

I was thinking of going this nice worm walnut color with black fabric.
Also with the option of blacking out the very base (Matt Black).(Bottom Photo)

 

[tomlinmgt]

If you like the look of the darker base I think I'd go with a darker stain on the wood of the base segment for a two-tone wood look rather than painted matte black. A bit more classy, IMO.

 

[Pandovski]

I would go against all the advices about modding the crossovers, re-wiring, re-damping, re-anything.

People who consider the L250 to be unfinished 250Ti and a cheaper way to get the Ti, they are all wrong. They ruined their original 250s and don't own a 250 or a 250Ti, they own Frankenstein speakers. They just follow the MORE IS MORE principle of changing original WELL CHOSE CAPS with expensive boutique ones and adding fatter wires just because it must be better. Yes, you all lot know more than Greg Timbers, I'm sure.

4-2-7 please don't make your beautiful 250s into car project speakers. Just replace the blue electrolytics caps with exact type and values electrolytic caps of good quality. You are a connoisseur by nature, not a raving headbanger.

 

[tomlinmgt]

I would go against all the advices about modding the crossovers, re-wiring, re-damping, re-anything.

People who consider the L250 to be unfinished 250Ti and a cheaper way to get the Ti, they are all wrong. They ruined their original 250s and don't own a 250 or a 250Ti, they own Frankenstein speakers. They just follow the MORE IS MORE principle of changing original WELL CHOSE CAPS with expensive boutique ones and adding fatter wires just because it must be better. Yes, you all lot know more than Greg Timbers, I'm sure.

4-2-7 please don't make your beautiful 250s into car project speakers. Just replace the blue electrolytics caps with exact type and values electrolytic caps of good quality. You are a connoisseur by nature, not a raving headbanger.

My, my.....give 'em some room folks, he's liable to hurt someone.

And no, I don't think I knew more than Arnie N. when I replaced the electrolytic caps in my QLS-1's with polys. Maybe you can cut me some slack thinking poly caps (radial tires) might offer some improvement over the 'lytics (bias ply). If you can't then I plead rookie who got bad advice.

 

[4-2-7]

If you like the look of the darker base I think I'd go with a darker stain on the wood of the base segment for a two-tone wood look rather than painted matte black. A bit more classy, IMO.

Might be to many colors. Im a firm believer in not introducing three colors it starts to look strange. Yes I could dye stain them black but it would not be black. The wood color will be coming through.

These bases get beat up as mine are. Even when Im done I'll be vacuuming around them. I thought of the black out prior to seeing that photo. JBL cut a recessed line to make it look as if it was sitting on a base. But for them it was easier to just have a shadow line. Touch-up and maintenance would be easier with opaque black. Hell Im a finisher I don't even want to do these let alone maintain them ha ha ha.

The tweeter and base can have the same black and sheen, or just do the color all the way to the floor.

I can modernize them also by.

Individual speaker covers (Black)

Don't use the small speaker badge and put a big call out logo (JBL L250) in the blacked out base.

This all would look more sporty and not as elegant.

 

[4-2-7]

I would go against all the advices about modding the crossovers, re-wiring, re-damping, re-anything.

People who consider the L250 to be unfinished 250Ti and a cheaper way to get the Ti, they are all wrong. They ruined their original 250s and don't own a 250 or a 250Ti, they own Frankenstein speakers. They just follow the MORE IS MORE principle of changing original WELL CHOSE CAPS with expensive boutique ones and adding fatter wires just because it must be better. Yes, you all lot know more than Greg Timbers, I'm sure.

4-2-7 please don't make your beautiful 250s into car project speakers. Just replace the blue electrolytics caps with exact type and values electrolytic caps of good quality. You are a connoisseur by nature, not a raving headbanger.

I Agree

Plus I don't know how to hot rod speakers yet!

Just Cars

 

[tomlinmgt]

Might be to many colors. Im a firm believer in not introducing three colors it starts to look strange. Yes I could dye stain them black but it would not be black. The wood color will be coming through.

These bases get beat up as mine are. Even when Im done I'll be vacuuming around them. I thought of the black out prior to seeing that photo. JBL cut a recessed line to make it look as if it was sitting on a base. But for them it was easier to just have a shadow line. Touch-up and maintenance would be easier with opaque black. Hell Im a finisher I don't even want to do these let alone maintain them ha ha ha.

The tweeter and base can have the same black and sheen, or just do the color all the way to the floor.

I can modernize them also by.

Individual speaker covers (Black)

Don't use the small speaker badge and put a big call out logo (JBL L250) in the blacked out base.

This all would look more sporty and not as elegant.

I agree on three finishes getting too busy.

But I think I'd want stain to the floor rather than black base. The early QLS-1's had a matte black painted base and my later models are stained base. I definitely prefer mine.

As far as susceptibility to damage, can't you just slap a catalyzed clear on there in matte or semi-gloss to match the top?

Bottom line...I'd want to keep them as original as possible if it doesn't require extraordinary effort.

And please no boy-racer L250 logo on the base.

 

[tomlinmgt]

We did these up (I own a powder coating business) for an AC Cobra kit car a few weeks ago. I prefer your raw ones.

 

[4-2-7]

I agree on three finishes getting too busy.

But I think I'd want stain to the floor rather than black base. The early QLS-1's had a matte black painted base and my later models are stained base. I definitely prefer mine.

As far as susceptibility to damage, can't you just slap a catalyzed clear on there in matte or semi-gloss to match the top?

Bottom line...I'd want to keep them as original as possible if it doesn't require extraordinary effort.

And please no boy-racer L250 logo on the base.

"And please no boy-racer L250 logo on the base." LOL

I know I just mulling over thoughts. Most of my thoughts do to rarity are inline with a faithful restoration. I might just be cleaning everything and finishing them as the factory had them.

 

[Pandovski]

My, my.....give 'em some room folks, he's liable to hurt someone.

And no, I don't think I knew more than Arnie N. when I replaced the electrolytic caps in my QLS-1's with polys. Maybe you can cut me some slack thinking poly caps (radial tires) might offer some improvement over the 'lytics (bias ply). If you can't then I plead rookie who got bad advice.

Did you match the caps to original ESR specs? What lab equipment did you use? PM me your CV Mr. :grumpy:

 

[4-2-7]

Did you match the caps to original ESR specs? What lab equipment did you use? PM me your CV Mr. :grumpy:

Check your PM and look at new photos