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JBL L200 Studio Masters-Pics

As to working on the LE85's here is what I did, and learned the hard way on what not to do concerning those magnets and loose screws flying into the diaphragms..
The open cell foam backs on the LE85 drivers starts to fall to pieces after 40 years or so..
Capture.JPG

Here is what it looked like after removal:
Capture1.JPG

You can see bits of the rotting foam just starting to stick to the diaphragm.. ..

Capture4.JPG

Cleaning the gap on the LE85 with masking take, sticky side out.. Note the bronze screw driver these magnets are freakin strong!

Capture2.JPG

As for recapping the LX16, that crossover is entombed in some sort of gunk, and I had to heat this one up on the woodstove to get it out of the can..

Capture5.JPG

Not sure the best route for a recap. Instead of trying to recap this mess I just built a new crossover, mounted to plywood under the speaker.. Won't win any trophy's but it did sound better after..
Capture6.JPG

Hope you found some of this worthwhile! :)
 
Great approach and your results look fantastic! I think I'll try the acetone wipe down approach first and see what it removes before I do any sanding. Luckily, there's no deep scratches that I've noticed so far.

Cheers, Glenn
Yes I should have mentioned bleach as a last resort after cleaning with something or a few things to see what might work on it.
Always remove whatever you can before sanding and I again suggest some steam to raise the grain some before sanding.
That also opens the pores in the wood grain so you can do that let it dry and attempt more cleaning.
Whatever is left will not be as deep in the veneer before sanding when the grain has been raised and dried so you have a better chance of sanding it out
without sanding through to the core material.
 
Well, well, Glen, it seems while most other folks are rescuing dogs, you have started your own speaker rescue home, that is a perfect marriage for you, as you seem to take the time to do things the right way, this hobby has been a great blessing for you, as the speakers seem to be dropping from the sky. Amazing! Good luck.
 
As to working on the LE85's here is what I did, and learned the hard way on what not to do concerning those magnets and loose screws flying into the diaphragms..
The open cell foam backs on the LE85 drivers starts to fall to pieces after 40 years or so..
View attachment 1248192

Here is what it looked like after removal:
View attachment 1248199

You can see bits of the rotting foam just starting to stick to the diaphragm.. ..

View attachment 1248205

Cleaning the gap on the LE85 with masking take, sticky side out.. Note the bronze screw driver these magnets are freakin strong!

View attachment 1248206

As for recapping the LX16, that crossover is entombed in some sort of gunk, and I had to heat this one up on the woodstove to get it out of the can..

View attachment 1248207

Not sure the best route for a recap. Instead of trying to recap this mess I just built a new crossover, mounted to plywood under the speaker.. Won't win any trophy's but it did sound better after..
View attachment 1248208

Hope you found some of this worthwhile! :)
This is perfect and extremely helpful! So that foam disk was on top of the silver dome correct? And what kind of foam did you use for replacement?
The brass screw driver is a great tip!
Cheers, Glenn
 
This is perfect and extremely helpful! So that foam disk was on top of the silver dome correct? And what kind of foam did you use for replacement?
The brass screw driver is a great tip!
Cheers, Glenn

That foam is not supposed to contact the diaphragm ( silver dome ) just in case you're wondering ( unlike some JBL tweeters where foam is deliberately put inside the dome contacting the diaphragm's dome > damping extraneous ringing ).

The foam ( here ) is supposed to remain suspended/glued up inside the back-cap ( as seen below ).

index.php


:)
 
That foam is not supposed to contact the diaphragm ( silver dome ) just in case you're wondering ( unlike some JBL tweeters where foam is deliberately put inside the dome contacting the diaphragm's dome > damping extraneous ringing ).

The foam ( here ) is supposed to remain suspended/glued up inside the back-cap ( as seen below ).

index.php


:)
Hey Earl!

Thanks, but I don't see your image, just
 
Hey Earl!

Thanks, but I don't see your image, just

That's odd because it's an image link ( to a pic within a post ) that's attached to this thread.

And of course I still see it.

I'll see what I can do about that sometime before my editing time expires.

:)

EDIT:
Capture.JPG
 
Home Depot sells big beige adhesive-backed felt discs in the hardware section; that’s what I use for replacements. I put a little Amazing Goop® around the edges to supplement the adhesive on the discs.
 
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Yes Earl is right, the foam is attached to a thin piece of felt which is glued to the back cap of the driver and doesn't touch the diaphragm. The foam is supposed to be open cell of which I had difficulty finding so I made my own from a sponge like the tile guys use for cleaning grout. I cut a half inch of the sponge off with a sharp knife and then cut a circle pattern and glued it to the sponge. Then glued that to the back cap.

I know this sounds a bit backwoodsy but it did the trick and I couldn't hear any difference. I heard where the original foam may still be available from JBL so if you are doing this, and I think you probably should at some point, then I would definitely try to source the OEM stuff.

Using a very sharp kitchen knife.. (wife does NOT know!)

Capture.JPG

I used felt from a turntable mat I wasn't going to ever use, but should be able to find this stuff easily..

Capture1.JPG

Felt/foam glues to inside of the back cap of the driver, felt to the back...
Be cautious as can be about both the screws and the crimp on forks as those are ferrous and will want to jump right onto that fragile diaphragm! Hence why I replaced both diaphragms with new ones (Radian 16 ohm). I only dinged one but I decided to change both diaphragms out so as to be a matched pair.. I got lucky that these Radians sound great, perhaps even better than the OEM and go for only $80 instead of $160 ish for original LE85 diaphragms on eBay..
Capture2.JPG
 
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This is good info!
I have one question. When you do the foam replacement , do you have to remove the wax seals on the back of the drivers to get the back cover off?
I am asking because it seems everyone freaks out when they are removed. Original diaphragms and all.
I am sure my foam on my LE 85s are toast in my c50s..
Does replacing the foam help with the sound of the horn?
Congrats Glenn on the 200s. You do seem to have good Karma.:thumbsup:
J.T.
 
This is good info!
I have one question. When you do the foam replacement , do you have to remove the wax seals on the back of the drivers to get the back cover off?
I am asking because it seems everyone freaks out when they are removed. Original diaphragms and all.
I am sure my foam on my LE 85s are toast in my c50s..
Does replacing the foam help with the sound of the horn?
Congrats Glenn on the 200s. You do seem to have good Karma.:thumbsup:
J.T.
As long as the foam is still intact and not crumbling off I doubt changing the foam will change the sound. It is more about fixing a problem before it becomes one...
Yes the red wax has gotta go! But that only matters to the folks on eBay... :)
 
@GD70 — May I ask a small favor: can you measure the outside diameter of the woofers? I have a pair, and a cabinet, and need to know what width panel I'd need to mount them.
 
Yes Earl is right, the foam is attached to a thin piece of felt which is glued to the back cap of the driver and doesn't touch the diaphragm. The foam is supposed to be open cell of which I had difficulty finding so I made my own from a sponge like the tile guys use for cleaning grout. I cut a half inch of the sponge off with a sharp knife and then cut a circle pattern and glued it to the sponge. Then glued that to the back cap.

I know this sounds a bit backwoodsy but it did the trick and I couldn't hear any difference. I heard where the original foam may still be available from JBL so if you are doing this, and I think you probably should at some point, then I would definitely try to source the OEM stuff.

Using a very sharp kitchen knife.. (wife does NOT know!)

View attachment 1248699

I used felt from a turntable mat I wasn't going to ever use, but should be able to find this stuff easily..

View attachment 1248700

Felt/foam glues to inside of the back cap of the driver, felt to the back...
Be cautious as can be about both the screws and the crimp on forks as those are ferrous and will want to jump right onto that fragile diaphragm! Hence why I replaced both diaphragms with new ones (Radian 16 ohm). I only dinged one but I decided to change both diaphragms out so as to be a matched pair.. I got lucky that these Radians sound great, perhaps even better than the OEM and go for only $80 instead of $160 ish on eBay..
View attachment 1248701
Awesome! Appreciate your tutorial.
Cheers, Glenn
 
@GD70 — May I ask a small favor: can you measure the outside diameter of the woofers? I have a pair, and a cabinet, and need to know what width panel I'd need to mount them.
Sure. I'll try to do it this evening when I get home from work.

Glenn
 
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