Vinylmasters
Super Member
I'm not familiar with the SL-DK2. Is it a big metal body like a SL-1301 - 1500 - 1600's were? Those really heavy metal bodies in that series do have a distinctly different sound than any other Technics I have had.
JVC QL-?? owners thread
- Thread starter BillWojo
- Start date
I'm not familiar with the SL-DK2. Is it a big metal body like a SL-1301 - 1500 - 1600's were? Those really heavy metal bodies in that series do have a distinctly different sound than any other Technics I have had.
Final_Baton
Well-Known Member
No it's a composite plint and chassis. and not as good as SL-1301 - 1500 - 1600. But from all acounts it's still a very decent deck. I don't know how much lesser it is in sound quality compared to the above though.
The model is SL-D2, and the ''K'' at the end denotes a black/dark grey model.
I wouldn't mind getting an SL-1200 at some point, if only for the availability of parts. and I love their sound too
The model is SL-D2, and the ''K'' at the end denotes a black/dark grey model.
I wouldn't mind getting an SL-1200 at some point, if only for the availability of parts. and I love their sound too
Final_Baton
Well-Known Member
I don't have a scale here, but I'll try to get one so I can identify the weight of the platter on my model (info missing from the manual).
desertrat748
Super Member
That is just beautiful.
desertrat748
Super Member
That can be fixed somewhat. One quick fix is to shim it. I purchased a QL A7 with drooping weight and gently lifted it up and shimmed it. Used an actual wood shim as I installed some solid Alder wood doors. This made it work as the original owner couldn't use it with it's droop.
A second way to fix it that I've read about is to use some dental floss to saw through the old rubber damper and then replace it with some new. I don't have the guts to try that right now. I just had my QL-A7 stop working and after many hours of searching for someone to repair it, had to do it myself. Old connections make bad contact and took awhile to figure out.
desertrat748
Super Member
SO, something that is a little bit of a bummer though with the QL-Y44F, is that being a japanese-only model, there's no english manual
There's the japanese one on VinylEngine, but alas, I don'tread japanesehttps://www.vinylengine.com/library/jvc/ql-y44f.shtml
One thing i'd like to know at some point is : what is the effective mass of tonearmso I can know what compliance of carts I can use.Wonder if my Nagaoka MP-200 is a good fit on it?
Also wondering what the hole in the tonearm base do. VTA adjustment? or just some port used for maintenance?
If someone who can read japanese want to take a look at this, and also peruse the manual for info on effective tonearm mass, you're very welcome
I had printed off the English version from Vinyl Engine. If I remember correctly, that one is for the cut off, how far it goes into the dead wax.
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BillWojo
Addicted Member
There is a permanent fix to the drooping tone arm, it requires removing the rear stub (held on by two tiny setscrews under the collar) and replacing the rubber isolation piece.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...bushing.html&usg=AOvVaw2ah4r1wQ_cA7vsNqBC3Xws
It's got plenty of discussion and some pictures of the process.
BillWojo
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...bushing.html&usg=AOvVaw2ah4r1wQ_cA7vsNqBC3Xws
It's got plenty of discussion and some pictures of the process.
BillWojo
brunomarcs
Well-Known Member
Final_Baton
Well-Known Member
Dammit, I thought about adding something like "not Yamaha GT-2000 or other super-table substantial, but still pretty substantial for a mid-grade consumer table'' haha. I should have added that. I forget sometimes that other people have monster tables. To me it feels substantial, but I'm coming from a Technics SL-D2... so it's all relative.
It is a bit wider than that of that of the QL-Y7 and QL-Y55F, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was a bit heavier too. but probably not that much heavier.
Forget what I said back there, it's not a super substantial platter objectively. To me it is, but it's nothing compared to a GT-2000.
it does seem decently higher, and also a little bit wider, than that of QL-Y7 and QL-Y55F. But I can't confirm if it's heavier.
It is a bit wider than that of that of the QL-Y7 and QL-Y55F, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was a bit heavier too. but probably not that much heavier.
Forget what I said back there, it's not a super substantial platter objectively. To me it is, but it's nothing compared to a GT-2000.
it does seem decently higher, and also a little bit wider, than that of QL-Y7 and QL-Y55F. But I can't confirm if it's heavier.
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totem
Addicted Member
Since several people have mentioned the GT-2000 I'll make note that it's drive/motor was designed by Victor/JVC engineers
along with some Micro Seiki drives.
Final_Baton
Well-Known Member
Really? There was an english version uploaded on VInylEngine at some point? and you have it?
Would you mind scanning your copy and uploading it? assuming what you have is the QL-Y44F one
Pretty cool bit of info! Thanks for sharing. I wasn't aware of that one.
Looks like JVC/Victor were really at the forefront of DD innovation, as much as all the other big players. Seems like they invested some serious R&D in it, and came up with advances in the tech too. Didn't they also introduce the frequency-controlled Quartz system to begin with? think I read that somewhere
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desertrat748
Super Member
I thought you were asking about the QL A7. I have that one.
My mistake and apologies. Same thing for the screw hole. It’s probably the lead in adjustment not the cut off.
brunomarcs
Well-Known Member
Does anyone have the last year model what is it called? Y44F. I want to see the platter! The Y7 platter is a work of art.
Final_Baton
Well-Known Member
I tried lifting the platter gently and it moves upward a little bit but stops, looks like I'd need to disasemble some stuff to take it out and I don't want to dissasemble my table. sorry
brunomarcs
Well-Known Member
It should come off without a hitch. If there left on for years there hard but needs to come off now.
desertrat748
Super Member
I tried lifting the platter gently and it moves upward a little bit but stops, looks like I'd need to disasemble some stuff to take it out and I don't want to dissasemble my table. sorry
It’s just stuck due to being on there so long. I’ve had it happen to a few tables including a JVC.
Use both thumbs and push down on the center post why pulling up through the holes in platter with your fingers.
It might take a few tries and some effort. I would gently rock it a little as you lift. Try several times by pressing hard but the thumbs on the center post but not crazy enough to damage it. It may take a few tries.
One of mine took about five minutes of attempting don’t overdo it and the gentle wrap with a rubber mallet or a plastic mallet might be needed.
desertrat748
Super Member
QL- A7 with the TT-71 drive. The 71 is the least complicated of the three space saucers. The 81 has a different method for its quartz lock drive and the 101 is more complicated still. Push - pull I believe?
It’s nearly impossible to find someone out west that will work on them. I found one person who has done successfully with an 81 drive and also the 101 but only gave me advice on how to test mine out with troubled areas. He was too reluctant to take mine in and politely said that he was too busy. Mind that he was really nice about it.
I’m glad This thread was started. And there’s a lot of response. I have asked numerous times for some help on my JVCQLA7 and the pair of LF -41s with little response.
When opened up, all of my JVC tables are very well built in the circuit board and electrical methods and materials used. I’m impressed with that. They did use a lot of post wraps instead of soldering to boards on QL models and the LF-41.
Caps still look great and I was advised NOT to try and replace mine when my QL-A7 lost speed control. That was by the electronics repairman that has experience with these models and 40 years of experience repairing equipment. Not that caps don’t go bad but his advice was to look for bad solder joints on the board, and bad cable connections that are going to be caused by corrosion (air & moisture over time).
The problems I have had are all related to corrosion at either a switch, vari-resistor, or cable connections. Fwiw, that’s really what I’m finding on all tables.
Final props to JVC, these tables have shown to give the lowest wow/flutter of any tables that I have owned. I started a thread while back about the best speed control I’ve had with my JVC tables. They definitely have developed some outstanding motor/drives. Others have contracted JVC to design or build their drives.
Final_Baton
Well-Known Member
I was able to lift the platter without too much force, thankfully. Pressed a little bit on the spindle with my thumbs and it came of. Whew! I'm relieved. I really didn't want to have to put too much pressure on the spindle. Thankfully, just a tiny little bit was necessary.
The underside is pretty spartan, there are no fancy designs, no ''spokes''. My guess is that : for the record-size auto-detect light sensor system to work, there needs to be no big ''spokes'', as those would obstruct the light beam.
The platter weighs 1.5 kg*, on this table from 1986. which is lighter than QL-Y models with higher numbers but... oh well. the table still has great specs and sounds superb.
And I like the size, and height, and look of the platter regardless (with it's big cylinder-with-tapered-edge look)
*I weighted it with an electronic stand-on balance, so not the most accurate it could be. But it consistently gave me 1.5 kg
The underside is pretty spartan, there are no fancy designs, no ''spokes''. My guess is that : for the record-size auto-detect light sensor system to work, there needs to be no big ''spokes'', as those would obstruct the light beam.
The platter weighs 1.5 kg*, on this table from 1986. which is lighter than QL-Y models with higher numbers but... oh well. the table still has great specs and sounds superb.
And I like the size, and height, and look of the platter regardless (with it's big cylinder-with-tapered-edge look)
*I weighted it with an electronic stand-on balance, so not the most accurate it could be. But it consistently gave me 1.5 kg
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