• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

KEF 104 ab

Redux time!

What 104 version is this? Is it an aB?
JC6693.jpg


I also would like comparisons between
The above 104 and
1. the Calinda SP1053
2. the B&W DM1400
3. the B&W DM2 Mark 2

Also, for those who might know, a comparison between Ditton 66's and B&W DM 3000's. Different league from the above list, I know... but may bite on one if there is a compelling reason to do it.

I'm outta my league on Brit speakers and am looking for informed insight.

Thanks guys!
Tyler
 
My 104aBs have that same 104 sticker on the back, and mine lie in the 7519x serial numbers. The non-aB 104s also have that sticker. If the ones with 9100x serials were made after mine, I'd think they would also be aBs, but I'm not sure. I can't help you compare them to those speakers you listed since I haven't heard them, but I can tell you that 104aBs sound excellent.
The crossover's metal plate on the front of the speaker will tell you if it's an aB or not. You can see one in my current avatar picture.
 
Also, the only difference between 104 and 104aB is the crossover. You could turn a 104 into a 104aB.
 
Here's the front plate.
JC6685.jpg


So I guess not an aB.
How would you go about the conversion TO an aB- that is an acoustic crossover, not electrical.

Tyler
 
It's definitely a regular 104 if that's the original plate. It looks like someone's modified it. There should be a knob where the red thing is at to allow you to adjust to -, REF, and +, which look to have been blacked out with a marker. It looks like someone may have put the HF fuse that it on the top of the plate on mine where the knob should be on yours. I've attached 2 pics I found of what the front plates for each normally look like.
Here's a schematic for the 104aB crossover:
attachment.php

The one with 3 values is what should be varied by the missing knob. I'm pretty sure everything internally other than the crossover should be the same between the two, but I've never seen the inside of a regular 104.
 

Attachments

  • kef104.jpg
    kef104.jpg
    60.5 KB · Views: 65
  • C-104AB-2.JPG
    C-104AB-2.JPG
    101.1 KB · Views: 68
grill foam information wanted and me 2 pairs 104ab's

Hi Bart,
I would like the contact information on the guy that can make new foam grills for my Linn Isobarik's DMS's.
I have had 2 pair of Kef 104ab's, here is my two cents worth;
they are great! and love tube amps and power. Ran mine with Marantz 7c modified Pre and 2 Marantz 8b tube amps, later Apt Holman power amps in mono block (350WPC RMS). incredible mid range!
On voice and piano, one of the very best.
Very good bottom too don't know why there so much talk about tweaking the bass and grumbling about the grill (other than its short life span)
These were the first speakers design using advanced computer analysis and 3D modeling and DID sound slightly better with the grills ON.
the weakest part of these was the t27 tweeter which was sweet but rolled off and blew too easily if you put slugs is the fuse holders. The T27's lost some of the sparkle that make music more live.
Want more deep bass with these get good powered sub(s) also if you are going to run these on transistor amps I recommend 100 watt per channel or more and very good equipment, these deserve much better than middle of the Pioneer or Kenwood lines.
 
Keep them off the floor. Away from corners and back walls. I use 16" Cinderblocks with some carpet tile on the top to protect the speaker bottoms as the stands. I currently use 2 pairs, with the top pair upside down to keep the tweets closer together. I run mine in 4 ohm mode powered by a big Crown PSA-2. They are wonderful.
 
Resurrect an old thread here. I've acquired a pair of 104aB. Overall good condition ... except ... the PVC surrounds on both B200 SP1039s have pulled away from the baskets on both. I suspect they shrunk (flattened) to the point the adhesive failed. So no PVC surrounds available. Took a rather extensive look around for rubber surrounds, but nothing that seems to match up with the dimensions of the originals (the 'rolls' are too small - in the outside diameter). I wonder, since the PVC seems to be quite a bit more flexible than rubber, if Foam surrounds would work? That's assuming I can find the appropriate size. Thoughts?
 
I have a single box with crossovers but no drivers in good condition "FREE'' to anyone who wants it . I'm in Drouin Victoria I could send it at your cost if you want it
 
:crazy:
They sound great and effortless and I have never cranked the amp higher [B said:
than 1 o'clock.


One o'clock position ( so, in theory, just over the middle mark ) is quite loud for me.

Sorry for the mess I did with the quote tool
 
Back
Top Bottom