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KLH Twenty Three Restoration-PICS

mmMmMmMm, that tastes really good. Congratulations! I can't even imagine what how that will transform when the first coat of oil hits it, wish I could be there. That right there is a spectator sport for me.

Biggles
 
mmMmMmMm, that tastes really good. Congratulations! I can't even imagine what how that will transform when the first coat of oil hits it, wish I could be there. That right there is a spectator sport for me.

Biggles

:thmbsp:
Me too when I watch your projects progress!
Too bad we're on opposite coasts!

Glenn
 
very nice work Glenn. Curious if you will do anything about the separation and if so what. Inject glue with sawdust and hope for the best?
 
very nice work Glenn. Curious if you will do anything about the separation and if so what. Inject glue with sawdust and hope for the best?

Thanks Geoff!

Earlier in the thread, I had the same issue with the first cab. I used JB Kwikwood and while still pliable, I mixed in some sanding dust, which helped with the color match a bit. Not perfect, but a lot better, and it's the bottom, so out of sight.
This time I may mix epoxy and mix in saw dist so it's darker.

Glenn
 
Finished the bottom front corner! Now onto the rear corner repairs.

:banana: Now to the rear corners, then oil, then tunes!
A few pics. Gluing and finish sanded. I'll fill the joint gap with some epoxy ans walnut sanding dust so when oiled it should match up pretty well.



 
Oh, tasty tasty progression. Question: What's your method for feeding epoxy wood slurry into the the small crevasse?

Am on hold over here for oiling, too hot. It was 96 in the shade yesterday. Such a shame cause I have 2 projects out ready to go. Hotter today and again an uptick for tomorrow. Good for naps and tv.

Biggles
 
Oh, tasty tasty progression. Question: What's your method for feeding epoxy wood slurry into the the small crevasse?

Am on hold over here for oiling, too hot. It was 96 in the shade yesterday. Such a shame cause I have 2 projects out ready to go. Hotter today and again an uptick for tomorrow. Good for naps and tv.

Biggles

A little bit of epoxy with sanding dust to make it somewhat thick viscosity, or the JB Weld Kwikwood with sanding dust to darken it some, which I did on the first cab with decent results. Still debating which way to go. Either way it's the bottom, so you won't really see it. Mostly for my anal self to make it disappear best as possible.

It's been hot here in NY as well, low 90's last few days. My basement/cave is nice and cool!

Glenn
 
A little bit of epoxy with sanding dust to make it somewhat thick viscosity, or the JB Weld Kwikwood with sanding dust to darken it some, which I did on the first cab with decent results. Still debating which way to go. Either way it's the bottom, so you won't really see it. Mostly for my anal self to make it disappear best as possible.

It's been hot here in NY as well, low 90's last few days. My basement/cave is nice and cool!

Glenn

Hey Glenn,

Gotcha. Am still working on some of the finer points of doing such things. I'm pretty darned okay for most processes though. My downfall is that if I struggle with it for 2 days, my Care Factor goes away. Or if the process sucks all the joy out of the project, I lose interest in any anal processes. Ahem.

I ain't go no basement! Still doing all refinish work outside, under awning. It was 85 degrees when I put that first coat of oil on the AR project. Oil was tacking up and had to be wiped off at exactly 20 minutes. Man, I had to work at getting the excess off, FAST. Fooey.

Biggles
 
Hey Glenn,

Gotcha. Am still working on some of the finer points of doing such things. I'm pretty darned okay for most processes though. My downfall is that if I struggle with it for 2 days, my Care Factor goes away. Or if the process sucks all the joy out of the project, I lose interest in any anal processes. Ahem.

I ain't go no basement! Still doing all refinish work outside, under awning. It was 85 degrees when I put that first coat of oil on the AR project. Oil was tacking up and had to be wiped off at exactly 20 minutes. Man, I had to work at getting the excess off, FAST. Fooey.

Biggles

I'm a patient dude! Just can't help it!

When I apply oil, I use an old sock, or part of a T-shirt. Never brushed it, just too much! The applications are very thin, so that's why I need 4-5 applications minimum with light sanding between applications. Makes for a baby butt smooth surface!

Glenn
 
I'm a patient dude! Just can't help it!

When I apply oil, I use an old sock, or part of a T-shirt. Never brushed it, just too much! The applications are very thin, so that's why I need 4-5 applications minimum with light sanding between applications. Makes for a baby butt smooth surface!

Glenn

Hey Glenn,

I use a brush, but you have already seen that in my threads. By the time I brush on one application, I start over immediately because it's all soaked in. Even with my heavy handedness on the oil, I'm doing a standard of at least 5 applications. The 1957 University corner is at 5 applications right now and from the looks of it, I'll end up doing another 2. The oil didn't start sitting on the surface until I hit 4 applications.

I'm justifying the extra oil applied thinking it might give the failing veneer some stability. The veneer on the AR project is so old and soft it nearly blows away on its own, by hand or by power sander. But I don't really know.

I haven't picked up the super ultra fine sand paper yet. I'm getting there!

Biggles
 
Hey Glenn,

I use a brush, but you have already seen that in my threads. By the time I brush on one application, I start over immediately because it's all soaked in. Even with my heavy handedness on the oil, I'm doing a standard of at least 5 applications. The 1957 University corner is at 5 applications right now and from the looks of it, I'll end up doing another 2. The oil didn't start sitting on the surface until I hit 4 applications.

I'm justifying the extra oil applied thinking it might give the failing veneer some stability. The veneer on the AR project is so old and soft it nearly blows away on its own, by hand or by power sander. But I don't really know.

I haven't picked up the super ultra fine sand paper yet. I'm getting there!

Biggles

I usually use the 600 grit between applications. It almost acts as a polishing compound.
 
Great job and documentation as always Glenn. It won't be long before they are displayed amongst your others. I have been following along with your 23's but I wonder how many AK members do this type of veneer work on their restorations. It is very tedious work but rewarding when completed, wouldn't you agree.
 
I usually use the 600 grit between applications. It almost acts as a polishing compound.

Yes! I read that earlier in your post and can hardly wait to try it myself. The results I've received from the ultra fine steel wool have been stellar. But am always looking for a different/better/upgrade to what I'm already doing. I started out with a scotch brite pad, but the results were really lackluster.

Thank you sir!

Biggles
 
Great job and documentation as always Glenn. It won't be long before they are displayed amongst your others. I have been following along with your 23's but I wonder how many AK members do this type of veneer work on their restorations. It is very tedious work but rewarding when completed, wouldn't you agree.

Thanks Doc!
I enjoy documenting these restorations. Tedious, yes, therapeutic, and rewarding!

Can't wait to get these hooked up again and singing. These will replace the vinyl cab Six's.

Glenn
 
Yes! I read that earlier in your post and can hardly wait to try it myself. The results I've received from the ultra fine steel wool have been stellar. But am always looking for a different/better/upgrade to what I'm already doing. I started out with a scotch brite pad, but the results were really lackluster.

Thank you sir!

Biggles

Sure! I'm not using steel wool any more. It often leaves little metal fibers embedded in the veneer, though the finish does look great. I like the scotch brite in the earlier stages.
 
How to repair minor swolen separated MDF joints.

This is the top right rear corner. There was some exposure to moisture causing the swelling and separation. I dug out some of the MDF to create a gap so I could bring the edges back together. I dripped epoxy liberally into the gap, and clamped it to the correct position. I used wax paper to make a corner form. Now, there's no more joint gap, and I can finish splicing in the remaining veneer to complete the repair.

Here's a few pics.
Started here.


Digging out MDF for room to compress the joints together.

Added the top veneer piece, then sanded flush with the back and top surfaces.

Gluing, clamping, joint gap is repaired. Next to splice in the side veneer patch.





 
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More progress!

Top rear corner finished! I'm very happy with the results. The gap will be filled with epoxy. Started on the other bottom rear corner. This gap is much smaller, so I will just fill it, besides it's the bottom. Maybe these will be singing over the weekend.
Glenn



The other side bottom corner.



 
One more corner done

Need to sand, blend in, then onto the next corner. Shooting to have these done by weekend! I love doing this kind of work!



 
Go man go! It looks as though I'm going to be doing similar work on the pair of Bozak B312's I drug home along with the deMars. And then? This morning I was offered a pair of KLH 23's. Am waiting to see how much he wants for them.

This time though, I have a donor cabinet to pull veneer off of. This is HUGE. It's darned near impossible to do this type of veneer repair if you don't have any slices of veneer to do it with.

Going to rain later today, no AR-4x work for me today. Dangit.

Biggles
 
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