Klipsch Modifications

[gberchin]

I guess I ought to unbox and use my DATS some day.

It's a remarkably handy little device. Be aware, though, that they are now up to DATS v3. I have v2 and cannot even download the software for it any more; have to contact them by email for that.

 

[babadono]

Pretty awesome stuff. Wish they had come out with this years ago before I bought my meter. To be honest I never learned to use DATS for this since I had the meter anyway. Crites used one of these B&K's so I got one two.
I guess I ought to unbox and use my DATS some day.

Yes Dave by all means. You are designing/building complete speaker cabs. Allows you to do impedance sweeps for your customers.

 

[ClaudeJ1]

It's a remarkably handy little device. Be aware, though, that they are now up to DATS v3. I have v2 and cannot even download the software for it any more; have to contact them by email for that.

v3 needs, minimally, Windows 10 to run. I'm running v2 software in my old XP laptop with the v3 hardware.

 

[Deafyet]

Okay, you are all under arrest!!

JK, i have the disease also, hoping my beat up, moldy old forte 2s will forgive me for making them awesome again..

 

[Nordo47]

Ok guys apologies in advance if this has been covered somewhere in here (probably many times) but I have been unable to find it. In the beginning, right after the Earth cooled, it was written that PWK intended the Cornwall to be a center speaker for a pair of Khorns. My question: Where do the center channel wires go on the old vintage stereo gear (2-channel) of the day? Crude wiring diagram please.
Thanks in advance

 

[cecaa850]

Here

 

[Nordo47]

That diagram looks like they using mono block amps? Is that the only way to do it? No way to do it with a regular two channel power amp like a Marantz 300dc? Also, where did the "alum mini box" come from?

 

[RVT1K]

That diagram looks like they using mono block amps? Is that the only way to do it? No way to do it with a regular two channel power amp like a Marantz 300dc? Also, where did the "alum mini box" come from?

The left and right channels are being fed by one stereo amp -the drawing shows it split into two- and the center channel is being fed by the mono-block.

 

[RVT1K]

I have a pair of Synergy F-30's, fairly low on the Klipsch totem pole I imagine but that's what I have.

I'm currently bi-amping them with an Adcom GFA555 II driving the bottom end and a Fosi V3 stereo unit for the top. I have not bypassed the internal crossover but am using a Dayton Audio DSP-408 for high-pass and low-pass filters.

I'm retired and always looking for something to keep my mind occupied and was wondering if anyone has done any kind of mods on these and how it turned out?

 

[DirtyErnie]

I have an HH Scott 222c that has a center channel output, line level derived from the speaker outputs. Handy for adding a subwoofer.

 

[marems79]

Anyone ever use an EV DH2 in the CF-4 or CF-3? Looking to try a titanium diaphragm implace of the aluminum K63KN. I have found that the original Klipsch aluminum diaphragm was an EV of the DH1506/DH2 family but with a higher dcr of 6.6 ohms vs 5ohms

 

[DirtyErnie]

Tried a Peavey RX22 when I thought a driver was blown. Kinda crispy on top. Maybe the latest version with Neo magnets and ferrofluid would be better.

 

[Nordo47]

Are the L and R speakers so far apart that there is a hole in the middle or is this something for TV/movies?

A Cornwall IV may work okay (haven't heard them yet), but the midrange on the older versions (CW I - III) is vastly different and won't sound good with Khorns for music.

My question was intended to be about how the connection would be made with only a left and right channel coming out of vintage gear.

 

[exee]

I just added L pads networks to an ugly used set of Heresy 2. 3ohm/15ohm on the tweeter and 6ohm/30ohm on the squawker. Just about 4db down on both horns. I have replaced all diaphragms and the woofers with Crites components over the last several months since they had been abused / the woofers had been replaced with bad car sub specials.

This final readjustment seems to be just what I wanted. It balances they whole experience a lot more. I have only been listening for about 2 hours, post L pad addition, but i think the change is a keeper.

I finally decided to do this after discovering that Klipsch has discontinued the Heresy 2->3 conversion kits. I may get the LMAHLs one day, but at the moment, I am happy.

Total list of changes / replacements thus far
Basic cap upgrade kit from Crites to get one of the tweeters working.
Replacement woofers from Crites
Replaced the tweeter and squawker diaphrams (Crites again, Ti tweeter)
Added dampening to the plastic horns (did a little to help, though I wasnt expecting much)
Added a daughter board with static L pad networks for the Tweeter and Squawker.

 

[geezin']

I just added L pads networks to an ugly used set of Heresy 2. 3ohm/15ohm on the tweeter and 6ohm/30ohm on the squawker. Just about 4db down on both horns. I have replaced all diaphragms and the woofers with Crites components over the last several months since they had been abused / the woofers had been replaced with bad car sub specials.

This final readjustment seems to be just what I wanted. It balances they whole experience a lot more. I have only been listening for about 2 hours, post L pad addition, but i think the change is a keeper.

I finally decided to do this after discovering that Klipsch has discontinued the Heresy 2->3 conversion kits. I may get the LMAHLs one day, but at the moment, I am happy.

Total list of changes / replacements thus far
Basic cap upgrade kit from Crites to get one of the tweeters working.
Replacement woofers from Crites
Replaced the tweeter and squawker diaphrams (Crites again, Ti tweeter)
Added dampening to the plastic horns (did very little, if anything)
Added a daughter board with static L pad networks for the Tweeter and Squawker.

Would you mind giving your feelings on the woofers?

 

[exee]

Would you mind giving your feelings on the woofers?

Absolutely. Please keep in mind that I never heard the original Klipsch woofers. That being said the Crites do a fine job. I have no complaints with how they sound. And after the L pads pulled the squawker and tweeter back a bit, I find the overall speaker presentation to be very pleasant. I do not think that the crites woofers magically make the Heresys good down to 30 Hz, but what bass is there is great.

If you have more specific questions, I would be happy to answer those. I will also say I was impressed with both the construction / packing of the Crites woofers.

 

[geezin']

Thank you.

 

[Ziinda]

Absolutely. Please keep in mind that I never heard the original Klipsch woofers. That being said the Crites do a fine job. I have no complaints with how they sound. And after the L pads pulled the squawker and tweeter back a bit, I find the overall speaker presentation to be very pleasant. I do not think that the crites woofers magically make the Heresys good down to 30 Hz, but what bass is there is great.

If you have more specific questions, I would be happy to answer those. I will also say I was impressed with both the construction / packing of the Crites woofers.

It seems no matter what woofers or subs I try in those cabinets, they just won't go any lower than 50Hz, subs just ruin the sound and other 12" woofers are simply getting rare these days. Only junk Korean found used in old pioneer or other 1980s rack stuff. Unless you consider pro audio drivers (which is really more like the oem) it's rare to find good regular 12" woofers without buying a complete speaker set with a bad tweeter for too much money. I dont see much available on most speakers sites unless you're willing to pay $200 each. The rest are no better than vintage Korean stuff. Most are labeled as subs even though they're not.

I just made new cabs for a set of series 1s that I originally had modified the horns to mount on the front of the motor board but my beautiful black lacquer cabs got ruined and I had to make a new set. A sheet of 3/4" higher grade plywood right now costs $110 (4'x8') and medite is $50! They jumped during covid and of course the prices at home Depot haven't come down since!

I made a much better cabinet than the 1st series came with. I also made it a few inches larger in all dimensions. The largest I could easily cut both cabinets from a sheet was 17"w x 22.25"t x 14"d and I was left with enough wood to cut an extra motorboard in case I screwed one up. I cut backing blocks for all seams, held together with brad nails and glue. Braced on the back of the motor board between the woofer and sqwauker and another running along the back edge below the sqwauker magnet, I will use it as a brace for the horn magnet and will screw the back cover onto that same brace to stiffen it with foam gasket between them to reduce any noise. I'll post finished pics, 1 cab is nearly done polishing.

 

[Ziinda]

It seems no matter what woofers or subs I try in those cabinets, they just won't go any lower than 50Hz, subs just ruin the sound and other 12" woofers are simply getting rare these days. Only junk Korean found used in old pioneer or other 1980s rack stuff. Unless you consider pro audio drivers (which is really more like the oem) it's rare to find good regular 12" woofers without buying a complete speaker set with a bad tweeter for too much money. I dont see much available on most speakers sites unless you're willing to pay $200 each. The rest are no better than vintage Korean stuff. Most are labeled as subs even though they're not.

I just made new cabs for a set of series 1s that I originally had modified the horns to mount on the front of the motor board but my beautiful black lacquer cabs got ruined and I had to make a new set. A sheet of 3/4" higher grade plywood right now costs $110 (4'x8') and medite is $50! They jumped during covid and of course the prices at home Depot haven't come down since!

I made a much better cabinet than the 1st series came with. I also made it a few inches larger in all dimensions. The largest I could easily cut both cabinets from a sheet was 17"w x 22.25"t x 14"d and I was left with enough wood to cut an extra motorboard in case I screwed one up. I cut backing blocks for all seams, held together with brad nails and glue. Braced on the back of the motor board between the woofer and sqwauker and another running along the back edge below the sqwauker magnet, I will use it as a brace for the horn magnet and will screw the back cover onto that same brace to stiffen it with foam gasket between them to reduce any noise. I'll post finished pics, 1 cab is nearly done polishing.

 

[Gigantic]

It seems no matter what woofers or subs I try in those cabinets, they just won't go any lower than 50Hz, subs just ruin the sound and other 12" woofers are simply getting rare these days. Only junk Korean found used in old pioneer or other 1980s rack stuff. Unless you consider pro audio drivers (which is really more like the oem) it's rare to find good regular 12" woofers without buying a complete speaker set with a bad tweeter for too much money. I dont see much available on most speakers sites unless you're willing to pay $200 each. The rest are no better than vintage Korean stuff. Most are labeled as subs even though they're not.

I just made new cabs for a set of series 1s that I originally had modified the horns to mount on the front of the motor board but my beautiful black lacquer cabs got ruined and I had to make a new set. A sheet of 3/4" higher grade plywood right now costs $110 (4'x8') and medite is $50! They jumped during covid and of course the prices at home Depot haven't come down since!

I made a much better cabinet than the 1st series came with. I also made it a few inches larger in all dimensions. The largest I could easily cut both cabinets from a sheet was 17"w x 22.25"t x 14"d and I was left with enough wood to cut an extra motorboard in case I screwed one up. I cut backing blocks for all seams, held together with brad nails and glue. Braced on the back of the motor board between the woofer and sqwauker and another running along the back edge below the sqwauker magnet, I will use it as a brace for the horn magnet and will screw the back cover onto that same brace to stiffen it with foam gasket between them to reduce any noise. I'll post finished pics, 1 cab is nearly done polishing.

It's been said ad nauseam here and other places: There's no escaping physics. You will not get more extension in a sealed cabinet of those dimensions. If you want more extension, you'll need a bigger cabinet and drivers with a VAS that meets the dimensions of the new box, whether it is sealed or vented. The Super Heresy mods are well documented and work exceptionally well if you follow the recipe, but again, there's no escaping physics and there's no free lunch: you'll be limited to the lower mid 40Hz range, although with corner and boundary loading, some have seen in-room bass extension a hair lower than that.