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Let's mod a PL-41 !

It is, actually, the fixed Luxman version. We came in well within budget, and it comes with a Sumiko cartridge that I have questions about for you MC guys:

I have zero experience with Moving Coil carts. This arm is coming with a Talisman A (a very nice cart, I understand) however - it has a bent stylus shaft. Is this repairable/replaceable? Or do I just have what used to be a very nice cart?....
 
That is a good cart, and Soundsmith, depending on options, can fx it for $150,$250 or $350.

If it were mine, I'd send it to Soundsmith to be tested working, then examined and inspected to see if it could be repaired.

$150-$350 may seem pricey, but at $150, you are just getting into the starting price for most decent carts, with a few exceptions of course.
 
Part of my thinking, Paul, is that there are a couple of resons for trying to get it fixed.

I know that it's supposed to be a very good cart, and a big part of what we're trying to explore here is just how much we can get out of a PL-41. If we're going to go with a significant arm upgrade, it makes sense to me that we'd go with a significant cart, too.

If I get the cart working for - say a couple hundred dollars - and I don't like it, I can sell it & recoup the cost of repairs & half of what I paid for the arm...
 
Hmmm. Looks like Soundsmith will take a minimum of 6 weeks.

I'll do it, but I'll have to figure out another cart to use in the mean time...
 
Naptown Rob said:
Hmmm. Looks like Soundsmith will take a minimum of 6 weeks.

I'll do it, but I'll have to figure out another cart to use in the mean time...
Click to expand...

That Talisman is worth it, I have never heard anything bad about them, and they do go for good money on Agon and the bay. In the meantime you should just slap an AT9e on the table, they are great carts for the money for sure.
 
I took a page out of Bob's book (MrIgotnomoney) and went ahead and serviced my PL-41. I wet sanded the spindle with 1500 and the fully polished it with a dremel tool and two grades of jewelers rouge. I cleaned out the bearing cap and the used a wooden dowel and a soft cotton cloth damp with rubbing alcohol to clean the inner bearing. Cleaned it up like you would clean the bore of an M4. I then wet sanded the platter with 1500 and fully polished it as well. Finally, I cleaned the belt with alcohol and then popped it into a bag of talcum powder. I will assemble it this weekend. Here's how it came out:

DSCN3450.jpg


DSCN3451.jpg
 
It's here!! It's here!!!

Wheee!!!! I love getting packages.

That's what this hobby has given me: I never used to get packages....

The tonearm arrived today, and...it drops right in!

There is room to spare in the original hole, so I think I will be able to mount it in the proper position without any cutting (just drill 3 holes).

But - I'm concerned that I may have some VTA issues. That damned platter is even lower than I realized.
And, now I wonder if I should get the arm re-wired.
I also need help from you guys on something I've never had reason to ponder before:
I've got 4 wires coming out of the bottom of the arm leading to....nothing. How should I terminate them/what do I do about interconnects?
 

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There should be five to six wires.

One or two black wires- these are the ground wires.

The colored wires can be soldered to a DIN receptical for use with a DIN to RCA style connector.

You could also wire them directly to RCA cables. Problem here is you really need to take care of fastening the RCA cable so it's firmly mounted, otherwise it will rip the tonearm wires out.

Third, you can make a plate and mount RCA plugs to it. Then solder the tonearm wires directly to those.

Just be sure the wires coming out of the arm are long enough not to tear off the RCAs or bind the arm in any way.
 
Check that arm again for a fifth and possibly sixth wire- black- these are the ground wires and if you don't have them the arm will most likely hum.

Any arm I've rewired have had one to two black ground wires.
 
It has 6 wires, and their tiny size is a little intimidating...

Always thinking of the future (in this case, the ability to remove the arm easily should I choose) I'm wondering what the best way to approach this is.There is not enough wire at the base to make it all the way to the rear of the plinth where any RCA jacks would be mounted.

Maybe soldering to a DIN connector that I can mount nearby, then a run from the other half of the DIN to a plate w/RCA jacks.

Am I over complicating this? Too much crap in the path?
 
Glad to hear there's six wires- when you said four wires, i got nervous.

If you mount the wires to a female DIN receptical, you can purchase tone arm RCAs that come with RCAs on one end and a male DIN plug on the other.

This would be the easiest.

You could also fashion a plate underneath the table close to the arm, perhaps glue it close to the arm to the metal even with some automotive 3M emblem adhesive. Mount some RCA plugs under the table on this bracket.

If you use a metal bracket, get the insulated RCAs.
 
Thedelihaus has the right idea. I would vote for soldering the tonearm wires directly to RCA plugs mounted underneath the deck. Then you can swap out interconnect cables easily.
The soldering isn't tough, just make sure to tin the wires and RCAs and have some flux on hand to help wick the solder quickly. On my Luxman, both black wires terminate at a solder terminal for the ground lead to the preamp.

If your arm is lowered as far as possible in the mount and VTA is still tail high then you'll have to shim the cartridge in the headshell or add platter mats to get it level.

The standard Luxman platter is 1 5/16" in height above the deck including the mat.
 
jimreeves said:
If your arm is lowered as far as possible in the mount and VTA is still tail high then you'll have to shim the cartridge in the headshell or add platter mats to get it level.
Click to expand...

This is what I am worried about with the Sumiko arm Deli is rewiring for me. The platter is LOW.
 
Hey fellas-

I think there was buried back a few pages a way to raise the platter a touch by raising the bearing or spindle.
 
thedelihaus said:
Hey fellas-

I think there was buried back a few pages a way to raise the platter a touch by raising the bearing or spindle.
Click to expand...

Raising the spindle seems like a bad idea because the only way to do it would be to put a thicker thrust washer in there. I guess you could put a spacer of some kind between where the bearing bolts into the TT base. Either way you still have to accomodate the height of the capstan and I'm not sure that there is a whole lot of adjustment play. Maybe use Deli's idea and cut the base and have some sort of recessed platform where the arm is bolted in. Have a machine shop make one of aluminum maybe.
 
Hey Rob, I can't tell from your photos, did you lower the arm in the mount all the way? There are two set screws in the mount for that.
 
Mark Walters said:
Raising the spindle seems like a bad idea because the only way to do it would be to put a thicker thrust washer in there. I guess you could put a spacer of some kind between where the bearing bolts into the TT base. Either way you still have to accomodate the height of the capstan and I'm not sure that there is a whole lot of adjustment play. Maybe use Deli's idea and cut the base and have some sort of recessed platform where the arm is bolted in. Have a machine shop make one of aluminum maybe.
Click to expand...

I think you can raise the platter at least 1/8" without raising the capstan. The amount of "freeboard" on the platter's rim below the belt is the limiting factor.
 
Mark Walters said:
I took a page out of Bob's book (MrIgotnomoney) and went ahead and serviced my PL-41. I wet sanded the spindle with 1500 and the fully polished it with a dremel tool and two grades of jewelers rouge. I cleaned out the bearing cap and the used a wooden dowel and a soft cotton cloth damp with rubbing alcohol to clean the inner bearing. Cleaned it up like you would clean the bore of an M4. I then wet sanded the platter with 1500 and fully polished it as well. Finally, I cleaned the belt with alcohol and then popped it into a bag of talcum powder. I will assemble it this weekend. Here's how it came out:

DSCN3450.jpg


DSCN3451.jpg
Click to expand...

Mark
WOW very nice work, beautiful ! hey dont forget your teflon tape to seal the bearing cap. I used synthetic oil for the lubricant. Im polishing my Empire table bearing/platter right now. I noticed on the PL-41 without the belt if i give the platter a light push it will spin for quite a while !! I love the 41.
Man I have to get busy, your platter looks stellar ! Alotta hard work there, well maybe in an hour or two mine will look as good !!
bob
 
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