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Let's mod a PL-41 !

Rob, let us know if you can remove the Micro/Luxman lift- perhaps it's held in place with a set screw- and see if you can clear the stock lift.

Mark, as per Finnbow's measurements and our phone discussion, looks like the Sumiko arm will have room to spare, both up and down- so an excellent fit.
 
thedelihaus said:
Okay- here's a few important questions for you fellas-


The lift mechanism that's stock on the PL-41- how does that lift the arm?

Rob, could you retain the original lift mechanism and use it? And remove the Micro Seiki lift?

And what's the height between the stock arm and table top?
Click to expand...

I think you may be on to something here. I'll check when I get home.

Damn! The other deal fell apart for now. It was for a Garrard 301 & an Empire of undetermined model#....
 
OK, here's the deal:
Removing just the lift mechanism is possible, but will only gain me about 1/32". Doesn't really help.

Unfortunately I can't remove the whole arm support/anti-skate/lift mechanism portion of the arm. If I could remove it I'd gain 1/4" or so, which would be close to perfect. Although then I'd have no anti-skate.

I did manage to swing by the hobby shop today, so I think I'll experiment with the shim idea, hopefully tomorrow.
 
Pics of PL41 arm, as per thedelihaus

!B1,VmPQ!2k~$(KGrHqEOKi0E)RScVoE(BMe,l4gn(g~~_12.JPG


!B1,Vn,QBmk~$(KGrHqYOKm8E)5c5WJYlBMe,l-pvd!~~_12.JPG


!B1,VorwBWk~$(KGrHqEOKisE)R46()hOBMe,mFEyQw~~_12.JPG
 
Chad,

looks pretty straight-forward.

The side pivots- easy to remove? Often, these are relatively soft cast, and mar or chip easy when one tries to adjust 'em.

The other question- the DIN socket inside the arm tube- is it held in place with a screw or allen slotted grub bolt? Or is it press-fit?

Press-fit could be bad news....
 
The pivot points are simply set screws which sit in a recess. As for the socket, there is nothing holding the plug in the socket like a set screw. Why bad news? I'll have to take it out and have a closer look, I'll take a pic.
 
poppachubby said:
...As for the socket, there is nothing holding the plug in the socket like a set screw. Why bad news? I'll have to take it out and have a closer look, I'll take a pic.
Click to expand...


Not the cable- the cable plugs into the bottom of the arm. There's a receptacle plug that mates with the cable- male to female.

The receptacle is held into the base either by a screw or bolt, like on the Jelcos, or sometimes press-fit or glued.

If press-fit or glued, it can be damaged during removal.
 
poppachubby said:
The pivot points are simply set screws which sit in a recess.
Click to expand...

Unless I'm mistaken (such things happen), the pivot points are indeed recessed, but are inserted within a larger lock screws which must first be loosened to adjust the inner (smaller) screw. See post #235 and a few that follow for a better description.
 
finnbow said:
Unless I'm mistaken (such things happen), the pivot points are indeed recessed, but are inserted within a larger lock screws which must first be loosened to adjust the inner (smaller) screw. See post #235 and a few that follow for a better description.
Click to expand...


They aren't screws, the larger pieces are nuts to lock the set screws in place. Very straightforward, very simple.

Here;s a pic of the DIN cable, like I thought it's screwed through. No issues here...

4911272319_b7ff7e77a5.jpg
 
The plastic part with the pins coming out of it- how is it held in place the metal sleeve part of the arm?

That is what I need to know.

Somehow that plastic piece is held in place.

Rivet? Screw? Glue? Press fit?
 
I don't know about Rob or the others, but I am still waiting for my arm from Deli before I can progress.
 
Hello
On the PL-41 tonearm, the connector for the tonearm cable screws into the arm tube.
Be carefull there, I checked my arm and it simply unscrewed, with the tonearm wires attached.
bob
 

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MrIgotNomoney said:
Hello
On the PL-41 tonearm, the connector for the tonearm cable screws into the arm tube.
Be carefull there, I checked my arm and it simply unscrewed, with the tonearm wires attached.
bob
Click to expand...

Thank you!

First I've seen of that type- most are press, glued, screw, grub bolt.

Much appreciated!
 
Update!

Hello there, PL-41 fans. I think we have a winner. I received the Sumiko Premier FT-3 from Deli yesterday. I had some spare time, so I figured I would spin a little vinyl and screw around with the TT. I uninstalled the stock arm and sat the tonearm in place. There was ample room for the base to fit in the stock hole. I was able to move the base around, and with some measuring I was able to determine that the geometry would work across the board. Now I just have to grab the mounting diagram, drill holes, and bolt this baby in place. I also have a nice piece of 3/4 inch baltic birch that I plan to make a new base with. I picked up some spikes from PE that I will install as well. I will keep everyone updated on that one. Take note of a couple things when you look at the pics; the holes that were left from the tonearm that I have to do something with (suggestions) and most noteworthy, the excellent work that the Delihaus did on the tonearm (thanks Paul!)

Pics:
DSCN3455.jpg


DSCN3458-1.jpg


DSCN3467.jpg


Here are the spikes I am going to use:
DSCN3459.jpg


The question is: Will the new arm vault the PL-41 past my beloved MMF 5.1!

DSCN3466.jpg


Even after I get the arm mounted, I have to wait for the Audioquest DIN Tonearm cable I ordered to get here. They told me a couple of weeks which gives me ample time to get the other stuff right.
 
That looks awesome Mark. And I happen to have the same arm on a different table. Hmmm. What cartridge are you planning on using?

I am gathering up parts for my PL-41. I will start with the stock arm and the Denon 103. But I may do what you did later. I also plan on beefing up the plinth with some Ipe' I have leftover from my deck. It is an extremely dense and non-resonant wood. Denser than ebony, it sinks in water and has the same fire rating as concrete.
 
Isotonic said:
That looks awesome Mark. And I happen to have the same arm on a different table. Hmmm. What cartridge are you planning on using?

I am gathering up parts for my PL-41. I will start with the stock arm and the Denon 103. But I may do what you did later. I also plan on beefing up the plinth with some Ipe' I have leftover from my deck. It is an extremely dense and non-resonant wood. Denser than ebony, it sinks in water and has the same fire rating as concrete.
Click to expand...

I was going to start with an Ortofon 2m Blue. I thought about using a Denon DL-103 but the cart is a tad heavy for that arm without the extra balance weight. I also considered using a Shure M91ED and getting that JICO SAS stylus that everyone is raving about. Please, I am all about suggestions. Tell me what you think!! I am not sure what that arm likes for optimum tracking force.

On the base, I plan to cut the birch to fit and then use a router to route the corner out to 1/4 inch. That should allow the 3/4 wood to fit in there about perfectly. Then, I am going to mount the spikes to the base a couple of inches inward from each corner.

I still am unsure how I am going to address the holes left in the base from where i removed the stock components. Oh, post some pics of that IPE so I can see what it looks like. All I have done to my plinth besides the new veneer is to use cork as a sound deadener. I like your idea!
 
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Mark-

1) That table looks perfect with the Sumiko. It looks as if it were made for it.

2) how about a black and red metallic on silver custom badge to cover the holes?

It can be stuck down with double stick tape and we can get creative- how about Japanese writing saying "Pioneer" vertically? We can make the badge just big enough to cover the holes, and the badge can be easily removable if you ever want to go stock.
 
Ps- if you look under feedback and a post by Stephen J, you can see the Electrovoice badges I did for him in the positive feedback he left me.
 
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