Let's mod a PL-41 !

[MWalt]

I think you can raise the platter at least 1/8" without raising the capstan. The amount of "freeboard" on the platter's rim below the belt is the limiting factor.

Do you think it would be best to simply raise the bearing via spacers?

Mark
WOW very nice work, beautiful ! hey dont forget your teflon tape to seal the bearing cap. I used synthetic oil for the lubricant. Im polishing my Empire table bearing/platter right now. I noticed on the PL-41 without the belt if i give the platter a light push it will spin for quite a while !! I love the 41.
Man I have to get busy, your platter looks stellar ! Alotta hard work there, well maybe in an hour or two mine will look as good !!
bob

Thanks, Bob. I went ahead and assembled it back together this afternoon. Used the thrust washer that I got from Finnbow as well as the Teflon tape and Mobil 1 synthetic. I also polished the capstan while I was at it. My platter does the same as yours; smooth and once in motion tends to stay that way for quite a while. Now, just waiting for the new arm!

 

[finnbow]

Do you think it would be best to simply raise the bearing via spacers?

I suppose any sort of spacer or washer would work in that my original, defunct thrust washer had a thin aluminum disk under it (not anymore though). I bet your platter height already went up .10" after installing the thrust bearing if your old one was as trashed as mine. Do you have a sense of how much space remains below your belt on the platter currently?

 

[MWalt]

I suppose any sort of spacer or washer would work in that my original, defunct thrust washer had a thin aluminum disk under it (not anymore though). I bet your platter height already went up .10" after installing the thrust bearing if your old one was as trashed as mine. Do you have a sense of how much space remains below your belt on the platter currently?

I think there might be a little space. I will pull the cover off the capstan etc. and gauge the adjustment room I have tomorrow. I'll let you know. Also, I will check to see if the capstan has more adjustment room as well. IIRC, it does.

 

[Naptown Rob]

Hey Rob, I can't tell from your photos, did you lower the arm in the mount all the way? There are two set screws in the mount for that.

Yeah, it's down all the way, and seems like it should be about a 1/4" lower. So much for my initial "Woohoo! Drops right in!" glee.

There may be some serious machining in my future. Hmmm. I wonder if I should try it like this & see what happens.:scratch2: I do have an extra one of finnbow's thrust bearings. Now, where did I leave my Mickey Mouse ears?....

 

[MrIgotNomoney]

Rob
Thats one beautifull arm ! off a Luxman.... Im gonna have to find one of those.
It looks like it belongs on a PL-41.
bob

 

[finnbow]

Yeah, it's down all the way, and seems like it should be about a 1/4" lower. So much for my initial "Woohoo! Drops right in!" glee.

There may be some serious machining in my future. Hmmm. I wonder if I should try it like this & see what happens.:scratch2: I do have an extra one of finnbow's thrust bearings. Now, where did I leave my Mickey Mouse ears?....

I was wondering if you could also get more height adjustment if you were able to loosen the screws on the capstan and raise it somewhat, thereby allowing increased height on the platter (without the belt coming off the bottom of the platter).

 

[thedelihaus]

Yeah, it's down all the way, and seems like it should be about a 1/4" lower. So much for my initial "Woohoo! Drops right in!" glee.

There may be some serious machining in my future. Hmmm. I wonder if I should try it like this & see what happens.:scratch2: I do have an extra one of finnbow's thrust bearings. Now, where did I leave my Mickey Mouse ears?....

Rob- I can't see the base too well.

Could you invert it anyhow? Would it fit in the hole?

Also, there are a few slotted tone arm bases available on eBay. Perhaps you could swap the base for one of these. They may be able to be adapted to your arm. They were designed for the Jelco arms, I believe, and are just a tad "loose" on these around the Jelco shafts.

However, as Audio Technica did, you can "shim" these and it may work fabulously.

 

[Naptown Rob]

I gotta getta betta camera.

But here's a shot that should give you an idea of the situation.
I left the old PL-41 parts in place here for reference. The arm is adjusted as low as it goes. As you can see, the butt of the cueing mechanism is actually resting on the plinth.

 

[jimreeves]

Looks like you're about a half inch shy of the height you need? More? That'll be one big shim or a very tall cartridge. Still, that's what I'd try before going the machining route.

 

[Naptown Rob]

I'd guesstimate at least 1/4", maybe 3/8"...

What would you use as a shim? I'm concerned about adding mass to the head of the tonearm.

 

[jimreeves]

The lightest thing I can think of is a piece of balsa wood. I come from building and flying RC planes. Hobby shops sell 3/8" square hard balsa sticks that cut and drill easily. I'll post a sketch of what I suggest in a minute.

 

[jimreeves]

Something like this...there may be better materials that you have on hand. I was thinking it may be tough to find long enough cart mounting bolts, so tapping the spacer would allow mounting the cart to the spacer then screwing the spacer to the shell from the top. You can tap the balsa with the screw, then remove it and harden the tapped threads with a drop of thin super glue.
You could make the spacer from plastic or even aluminum with lightening holes too if you have the materials and tools for the job.

 

[Naptown Rob]

Nice sketch!

Looks like an idea. There's a hobby store near my house. I'll try & get over there today. I'm afraid I'm not going to get too much audio-related done this weekend. Today alone I've got to mow the lawn, work on a benefit I'm the Production Manager for, go to a birthday party for a 5 year old, go into work for a couple of hours, and of course hopefully complete the deal on a couple of very interesting turntables.

 

[golana]

Look for a piece of carbon plating.

 

[jimreeves]

Nice sketch!

Looks like an idea. There's a hobby store near my house. I'll try & get over there today. .

While you're there, check the Dubro hardware rack. They should have 2.5mm socket head bolts long enough to go through the whole thing. Avoids the tapping.

 

[thedelihaus]

Damn. By design, the cueing mechanism is going to force your hand into either using an extremely large and oversized rigged shim or machine the platter.

I gotta getta betta camera.

But here's a shot that should give you an idea of the situation.
I left the old PL-41 parts in place here for reference. The arm is adjusted as low as it goes. As you can see, the butt of the cueing mechanism is actually resting on the plinth.

 

[MWalt]

Deli, are we going to have the same issue with the Sumiko FT-3 arm?

 

[thedelihaus]

The Sumiko sits lower- that's a tall setup on the Micro arm there. And there is a notched linn base that's an option, that drops the arm way down, if needed. Practically touching the table top.

 

[thedelihaus]

Okay- here's a few important questions for you fellas-


The lift mechanism that's stock on the PL-41- how does that lift the arm?

Rob, could you retain the original lift mechanism and use it? And remove the Micro Seiki lift?

And what's the height between the stock arm and table top?

 

[finnbow]

Okay- here's a few important questions for you fellas-


The lift mechanism that's stock on the PL-41- how does that lift the arm?

It's mechanically interconnected to the Off-On-Down switch for turning on the motor. It is completely independent of the arm.

Rob, could you retain the original lift mechanism and use it? And remove the Micro Seiki lift?

I'd say yes.

And what's the height between the stock arm and table top?

It's about 35mm from the bottom surface of the arm and about 45mm from the bottom of the headshell mounting plate to the plinth.

Good luck.