Thanks Garry! The dinky 7s sound pretty good for what they are!Sounds Great Glenn. Woodwork is stunning. I just love that vintage style.
Garry
Really a shame.I have a thread going about the AX-Z1010 i bought a couple weeks ago, and was damaged during shipping. The volume shaft was slightly bent. UGG! I straightened the shaft, but it has volume issues and I am trying to track down an original motorized volume pot. I'll have my teck look at it, and hopefully its repairable but just in case. So please keep an eye out for one. I know a 1010 was barted out and listed on epay, and I think I found the seller, but no luck yet. Otherwise, the amp is in near new condition. Almost no dust on the PCBs! View attachment 2664759 View attachment 2664760 View attachment 2664761 View attachment 2664762 View attachment 2664763 View attachment 2664764 View attachment 2664765 View attachment 2664766 View attachment 2664767 Really a shame.
Cheers, Glenn
I have a thread going about the AX-Z1010 i bought a couple weeks ago, and was damaged during shipping. The volume shaft was slightly bent. UGG! I straightened the shaft, but it has volume issues and I am trying to track down an original motorized volume pot. I'll have my teck look at it, and hopefully its repairable but just in case. So please keep an eye out for one. I know a 1010 was barted out and listed on epay, and I think I found the seller, but no luck yet. Otherwise, the amp is in near new condition. Almost no dust on the PCBs! View attachment 2664759 View attachment 2664760 View attachment 2664761 View attachment 2664762 View attachment 2664763 View attachment 2664764 View attachment 2664765 View attachment 2664766 View attachment 2664767 Really a shame.
Cheers, Glenn
Nice to meet you AmbiI'm ambidextrous...
Bummer, but well worth the effort to get it singing again.This one arrived yesterday in non-working order. It’s somewhat of a bruiser. Someone’s been in there and their work was rather dodgy. It’s in protection currently. No matter, I think it’ll make a fine addition to my JVC herd. 1979 A-X5.View attachment 2664895
Look here, post 7, has pics of the volume pot. The one you posted is definitely smaller.View attachment 2664818 View attachment 2664819 View attachment 2664820 View attachment 2664821
This isn't the one I was thinking of so that means I have another. I think this is the smaller one.
Look here, post 7, has pics of the volume pot. The one you posted is definitely smaller.
Cheers!
https://old--fidelity--forum-de.tra...l=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp
The motor and gears are fine. Once I straightened the shaft, about 98-99% straight now, it pretty much has unassisted full rotation, except for a spot around 4 o'clock position where it get's stuck. I assist and it finishes to about the 5 o'clock position.It looks like the real difference isn't the size douch but the number of posts. Mine has 6 total on the pot and that one has 8 total.
The other one I spotted a few weeks ago was definitely larger but I can't say if it has more posts or not.
Is the problem with the motor that drives the gears, the gears themself or is the pot bad?
It looks easy enough to take apart and see, replacing anything but the gears will be quite simple. I would consider just using a different 8 post pot for now. Without reading through I'm going to assume that it must be the gears that are bad since the rest looks to be simple to repair. My gearbox looks identical to the one in the picture, but basically any gear box that moves freely and has a center that's the same or less to center of box should work. As long as it's the same thickness of thinner would be fine too, just need to extend the wires to reach the motor. I'd just use some thicker single core copper wires that will act as a mounting piece as well. It looks like that rear board supports the entire assembly along with the shaft nut. So the assembly can be shorter going by that but I don't know if that board is actually mounted onto another board or if there's a jumper running to it or a screw that secures it onto a metal frame? Either way as long as it's shorter or the same it won't be hard to make it work.
I never sweat the small stuff, exact fitting parts are nothing but a dream to me. Close enough works when it's mechanical but not when it's an electronic component carrying sound.
Every intention of resurrecting this one! I knew it was dead when I bought it and people will say what they say about Super-A’s but I really like the sound. I had a couple A-X1’s I brought back from the dead that I ended up giving to friends. I found when they were gone, I really missed them.Bummer, but well worth the effort to get it singing again.
This series are terrific and mostly under the radar. The A-X9 is amazing. My A-X5 has been great, going on about 7 years now. The 9 had needed work, due to age, and just about every board has had major rebuild work done.Every intention of resurrecting this one! I knew it was dead when I bought it and people will say what they say about Super-A’s but I really like the sound. I had a couple A-X1’s I brought back from the dead that I ended up giving to friends. I found when they were gone, I really missed them.
That’s wild! This is the first time I’ve dealt with plugs like this.I believe the plastic should slide up so the cable can be removed. I think the plastic slides down and you just slide the bare wires into the connector.
View attachment 2665362
I attempted to try one of the smaller connectors and it started to break a little bit, so I pushed it back to original position. I’m meeting my tech in the morning to pick up my M-7050, and give him the Z1010. He’s better adept at how to deal with these fasteners than I am. It will be in good hands.That’s wild! This is the first time I’ve dealt with plugs like this.
Much appreciated for the diagrams.
Cheers!
The motor and gears are fine. Once I straightened the shaft, about 98-99% straight now, it pretty much has unassisted full rotation, except for a spot around 4 o'clock position where it get's stuck. I assist and it finishes to about the 5 o'clock position.
The assembly is soldered to a large PCB, the small board at the back of the motor, and all the pot tabs are soldered to it, shaft nut mounted to the front of the amp.
The second resistive board (4 pins) I think is the issue, shown with the repaired spot in the link. Once it's opened up, I hope it's clear what's causing the sound output issue on the left channel. It's so odd the volume level stays the same regardless of the volume knob position.