WannaBeHiFi
Active Member
C103, C104 47uF 16V,
C107, C108 220uF 6.3V
All are the same size 10mm wide x 16 tall, spacing 4mm
M-45 Recap and Service
- Thread starter WannaBeHiFi
- Start date
C103, C104 47uF 16V,
C107, C108 220uF 6.3V
All are the same size 10mm wide x 16 tall, spacing 4mm
WannaBeHiFi
Active Member
I went down the Black Gate rabbit hole and it hurt my brain. Near as I can tell the original BG that are in the M-45 were discontinued many moon's ago. All the series of caps are confusing as hell. This is what I came up with on Mouser. These are the UES "Muse" series. Please advise if incorrect.
UES1C470MPM Nichicon | Mouser These are currently out of stock. Expected 3/31/2025! WTF
UES0J221MPM Nichicon | Mouser
Thank you
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Are all non-polar Nichicon audio grade.
Nichicon Electrolytic Capacitor 47uF 16Vdc KA Series Radial
partsconnexion.com
Nichicon Electrolytic Capacitor 220uF 10Vdc KA Series Radial
partsconnexion.com
WannaBeHiFi
Active Member
Thank you, sir for the links. I appreciate the nudge in the right direction.
I'm enjoying the advertising as well. According to Parts Connexion these caps. "offer beast-mode bass and scary good presence."
Dang! I thought I was just going to re-cap this amp and try not to destroy it. It never occurred to me that new components could create a scary beast!
Though trying to figure out the correct part is probably a useful exercise. I feel like this is a road already traveled and I'm wasting y'all's time.
The last time I was serious about this project, I found a couple of M-45 rebuild threads with a LOT of parts replacement content.
This time I've not been able to find those threads.
You read this on the internet right !
I like putting the Nichicon KA and/or KT series in amps that run hot and amps that have the potential to run hot like the M-45. UKA's and UKT's are high temp rated at 105C. Heck, I'd put them everywhere I can in that amp. If I can't find 105C rated caps for caps OUTSIDE the signal path. I uncheck the "audio grade" search option and check "general purpose" , then check Panasonic manufacturer. Here's the Panasonic hierarchy series rated low to high & they're all 105C temp rated.
FC
FM
FR
Seems like I always have to make an 85C compromise somewhere but oh well...every old cap in there is 85C and they lasted this long.
FC
FM
FR
Seems like I always have to make an 85C compromise somewhere but oh well...every old cap in there is 85C and they lasted this long.
I found re-capping addictive so I bulk order for future pieces. You may notice a price break at digikey & mouser in quantitty's of 10's , 20's etc. Also, they're always discontinuing the audio grade series so I stock up.
Nichicon 85C temp audio grade hierarchy:
-UFW
-UKW
-UFG plentiful and cheap!
-UKZ the most audio sexual
Those ^ are all polarized caps and the bulk of your project. Any BP (bi-polar) caps in the M-45?
If so:
-UES
Nichicon 85C temp audio grade hierarchy:
-UFW
-UKW
-UFG plentiful and cheap!
-UKZ the most audio sexual
Those ^ are all polarized caps and the bulk of your project. Any BP (bi-polar) caps in the M-45?
If so:
-UES
Ooh might wanna duck & hide at next power up then!
A good rule for signal path caps is matching the original voltage ratings, or going slightly above if ya have to like the ones Sensei Avionic chose.
Outside the signal path though, if I gotta double the voltage rating due to parts availability...I don't care.
Esoteric re-cap-isms
Outside the signal path though, if I gotta double the voltage rating due to parts availability...I don't care.
Esoteric re-cap-isms
Food for thought:
If you look up a typical cap at X voltage rating, and then look at the next higher rating for the same cap at the same µF, the higher voltage rated cap will generally have a lower ESR and a higher ripple current rating.
,
James
If you look up a typical cap at X voltage rating, and then look at the next higher rating for the same cap at the same µF, the higher voltage rated cap will generally have a lower ESR and a higher ripple current rating.
,James
I had my son print out a metric ruler on the computer printer. I like having a flexible ruler for re-caps. Problem is, I realized the hard way he didn't use the fit to scale print option so it was only accurate on small caps. So now I'm stuck with some massive filter caps that won't fit, damn it.
WannaBeHiFi
Active Member
Hey Y'all
Do you have any recommendations for sourcing C159 0.1uF 50V.
I'm making my list and checking it twice. Most are being nice, but 0.1uF 50V is on the naughty list. I've come up empty on Mouser and DigiKey. What I find is bulk, obsolete, not in stock. Parts Connextion doesn't even list that value.
I found it on Jameco for 0.15 ea, min 10. OK, a buck fifty. Then at checkout they have a $19 minimum else they charge $5.00 surcharge to buy $1.50 in caps.
realcomponents.com may have it, but they want an email or call for a quote? Really? Seems odd.
Do you have any recommendations for sourcing C159 0.1uF 50V.
I'm making my list and checking it twice. Most are being nice, but 0.1uF 50V is on the naughty list. I've come up empty on Mouser and DigiKey. What I find is bulk, obsolete, not in stock. Parts Connextion doesn't even list that value.
I found it on Jameco for 0.15 ea, min 10. OK, a buck fifty. Then at checkout they have a $19 minimum else they charge $5.00 surcharge to buy $1.50 in caps.
realcomponents.com may have it, but they want an email or call for a quote? Really? Seems odd.
Mouser has 10 thousand of these:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2C031001A00JSSD?qs=HY1Oqu7CRgrW1XsZMv8Ccg==
Should work just fine.
Over current detection ckt.
I do see lots of folks put the non polarized Wima's Bratwurst7's said in place of polarized electrolytic caps with values under 10uF. He's never steered me wrong. I don't know the pros and cons of this honestly.
If ya wanna keep it polarized on the side of caution digikey has lots of .15 and .22 uF caps in stock. Two .22's in series would total .11uF
Just fyi
WannaBeHiFi
Active Member
Danke aber mein Deutch ist nitch so good.Mouser has 10 thousand of these:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2C031001A00JSSD?qs=HY1Oqu7CRgrW1XsZMv8Ccg==
Should work just fine.
Luckily the translate button works. Keep in mind that you are working with one who knows just enough to be dangerous and that's about all. The SM calls for electrolytic so that's what I was searching for. Never occurred to me to search for a different type. I certainly don't know when or whether it's appropriate to change capacitor type.
I wanted to respond to my own post like a dork so the OP gets the right info. I wanna know things myself. I do understand that a polarized cap can be made a non polar type, but not the other way around.
Question for the pro's:
-Many folks are replacing polarized caps with NP Wima's nowadays below 10uF. Do you do that?
-Which ckt would you not do this in?
-Does the THD increase if it's a bypass cap?
Thanks
Just to save you multiple parts orders & shipping costs later... There's 7 or 8 caps on the meter board too. General purpose jones, not audio grade there.
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Good questions, but I am but a lowly amateur.
However,
Yes, I do that.
I have read that there are specific circuits where a NP should not be used, unfortunately I am too dumb to remember the exact details of that.
Doing a quick search here are a couple of hits:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...s-be-used-instead-of-polar-capacitors.827612/
https://groupdiy.com/threads/polarized-vs-nonpolar-caps-in-circuit-design.20715/
Film caps are far lower leakage than elcos, and I believe that low leakage = low noise. So I would think that if anything there would be less THD with a film cap. This is a good point where someone with more knowledge than me would be welcome to step in and correct me if I am wrong.
So far I have been replacing small value elcos with film for years now with no problems. If the cap in question is a coupling cap in the signal path then if possible I will use MKP PP rather than MKT PET because they are even lower leakage.
In this particular position I would have zero personal problem with using a film cap.
,James
WannaBeHiFi
Active Member
Good questions, but I am but a lowly amateur.
However,
Yes, I do that.
In this particular position I would have zero personal problem with using a film cap.
James
Thank you. Referencing the previous threads was educational. My takeaway is that "generally" a film cap is "better" than electrolytic. But as cap value increases, film caps get HUGE. So size quickly becomes a limiting factor. Films are more expensive. As Soundscape pointed out, the electrolytic is in the over current detection circuit.
Problem solved.
Thanks for your help.
WannaBeHiFi
Active Member
Yes Sir. Five to be exact. They have made the nice list. C127,C128 have shipped from Mouser. The rest of the small caps are coming from Parts Connextion who just happens to have a 25% off sale.