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Mach One 4024, 4024A, 4029 Information and Upgrades!

robmorin said:
Hey Buttercup i have a piece here that i have left over its a small piece, but good for your two mids.... i can mail it to you if you want? it should be good enough, you will just have to cut the straight pieces as its a crooked piece....

Let me know i could mail it out today if you wish....
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Thanks Rob... the foam arrived today and it is more than enough to repair several units with.

Thank you again, and may the audio gods send bountiful Karma your way!:thmbsp:
 
I have a couple of tasks left to complete these and a couple questions as well-

Regarding connecting the drivers: (viewed from the rear w/ tweeter on left, high freq L-pad in the center, mid L-pad to the right)

my original configuration had the + tweeter connected to the L-pads center pin, the neg tweeter connected to the L-pads right pin... the left pin is connected back to the x-over.

+ mid connected to center pin on L-pad, neg mid connected to the right pin and the left pin on the L-pad is back to the X-over.

Is this the correct way to go when reassembling these?

Does anyone know where I can download a 1Khz test tone in wav. format? (to center the VC on the magnet)
 
Wiring

Buttercup said:
I have a couple of tasks left to complete these and a couple questions as well-

Regarding connecting the drivers: (viewed from the rear w/ tweeter on left, high freq L-pad in the center, mid L-pad to the right)

my original configuration had the + tweeter connected to the L-pads center pin, the neg tweeter connected to the L-pads right pin... the left pin is connected back to the x-over.

+ mid connected to center pin on L-pad, neg mid connected to the right pin and the left pin on the L-pad is back to the X-over.

Is this the correct way to go when reassembling these?

Does anyone know where I can download a 1Khz test tone in wav. format? (to center the VC on the magnet)
Click to expand...

That sounds all right, they all should be in phase in Tier 1.

Left pin on L-Pads, Pin 1, input - goes to x-over

Mid pin on L-Pads, Pin 2, positive out goes to related driver

Right pin on L-Pads, Pin 3, Ground goes to related driver ground and ground on the x-over
 
Just as a general observation on caps, I test all mine before i install them and yesterday i found a polypropelene that listed a value of 8. but when tested showed .2, this would have not done its job in the crossover.
 
Your most Welcome Buttercup.... I am glad to have helped you....

Thats what this forum is all about...

Me, i am off for a long last fishing weekend tomorrow morning... Maybe i will have luck and catch the BIG ONE!

Have a great day !
 
I completed the Tier 1 mods on one of my Mach I's and WOW what a difference... The bass is incredible and the mids are much smoother. I'm very impressed with the transformation! I'm anxious to get the 2nd one completed and do some listening.

Regarding the 4024A midrange VC alignment- I found when you place the VC in it's plastic housing, there really is no way to move or align the VC on the magnet. I just put a thin coat of glue on the surface and screwed it back together and it sounds great.


I tore apart the 2nd unit and to my dismay the mid driver is toast... Where can I find a suitable replacement, either a new VC or a complete driver?
 
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Mid Drivers

Buttercup said:
I completed the Tier 1 mods on one of my Mach I's and WOW what a difference... The bass is incredible and the mids are much smoother. I'm very impressed with the transformation! I'm anxious to get the 2nd one completed and do some listening.

Regarding the 4024A midrange VC alignment- I found when you place the VC in it's plastic housing, there really is no way to move or align the VC on the magnet. I just put a thin coat of glue on the surface and screwed it back together and it sounds great.


I tore apart the 2nd unit and to my dismay the mid driver is toast... Where can I find a suitable replacement, either a new VC or a complete driver?
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I saw a pair cheap on EBAY a few days ago, I'd check them to see if they are still there.
 
Stuck on? The drivers (and plates) tend to adhere to the vinyl, over time. After loosening the screws, don't remove them (put them back in partially if you have). Use something to protect the surround and heat up the edge of the frame with a hair dryer. If you can adjust the heat don't use the highest setting. If no adjustment don't get too close. This will soften the "adhesion" that has occurred. Use a flat flexible piece of metal to work under the frame and loosen it up a little at a time. Make sure the metal has rounded corners and edges so it doesn't cut the vinyl.

Hope that helps.
 
tmblack said:
Well one of my woofers is stuck on by a previous owner.
Any ideas on how to remove it?
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I did the VL mods on my 4024a,s and found it easy to remove not only the woofers but all speakers and wires, recently i picked up a pair of 4024 and found it much more difficult to rebuild, the woofers were twice as hard to remove, all of the speaker leads were soldered in place and even the mid range was much more difficult to separate to install the felt pad...just an observation.
 
So whats the word from those who have done the crossover mods on the 4024A? What does it sound like? I got the caps to swap out, and I figure I'll just unwind the stock coils for the new values. Someone posted the number of turns to unwind - I'll have to fish around for that post. I'm still hesitant about the super glue; I don't know if I have the patience or steadiness to perform that tweak.
 
absolve2525 said:
So whats the word from those who have done the crossover mods on the 4024A? What does it sound like? I got the caps to swap out, and I figure I'll just unwind the stock coils for the new values. Someone posted the number of turns to unwind - I'll have to fish around for that post. I'm still hesitant about the super glue; I don't know if I have the patience or steadiness to perform that tweak.
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Ive done all of the mods on two sets of speakers ,first 4024a,s and secondly a pair of 4024,s. After doing the 4024a,s i compared the sound to the pair that wasn't completed, there was quite a difference in base and highs, the unfinished speakers were not as pronounced and the highs were a little ear piercing in my opinion. As far as the super glue on the woofer cones, setting them outside with a 2 oz container from a hobby shop took me about 15 minutes each ,not as tedious as it looks. I do think you need all the mods recommended to get the full affect.
 
I'm next up to bat, I hope. I'm experimenting with some speaker adhesive/dampener that when thinned can be brushed on and seems to soak into the cone material nicely. It's so much quicker and easier and no odor to deal with. I'll post before after images in a day or two. This is NOT in anyway to counter VL's suggestions, people will have to simply decide what works best for them and what is most cost effective. I do not have the equipment to do audio checks to see what impact this has, though my hopes are the same/similar to what VL get's with the superglue stuff. If in doubt, stick with the program. I'm using a set of Mach Two woofers, one of which was noticeably faded compared to the other.

Hey VL, have you run a check between the Mach One/Two woofers? I've compared mine side by side, etc. and the only difference, besides frame color and cone design, is the Two's are shallower. VC looks same diameter, but longer due to the shallow cone. The frames, magnets, magnet ports all look identical. The Two's, of course, are from A.S. systems, but I'm truly wondering if they can be used with good results in the moded One cabinets. If so, I'm one step closer to making a test set to compare to my working One's (which have been capped with original spec caps, before I found out about this thread).
 
gyrene said:
I have a set of the 4029 Mach Ones and hooked them up to both a Sansui 9090 and a Pioneer SX-750 on either reciever the bass seems...slow...or maybe stagnant...um...not sharp.Know what I'm saying.Of course I'm comparing them to a set of Klipsch KG4's so I mean...c'mon but still a 15" woofer moves some air and I think it could sound better.
I'd like to play with the crossover and maybe take some of the bass out of the low freq and enhance the midrange some.So why can't I just swap out some Henries and some Ohms and see what happens.I could wind up cleaning up the response don't you think?
Plus I don't know what the pots are supposed to be doing or if I'm defeating my purpose by moving the dial around so I usually keep it at zero.
What does everyone think of that?
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There is no one right way. Try it a variety of ways and decide which is more pleasing. It's up to you and you alone. That's why there's a knob, otherwise it would be set one way and you wouldn't be able to change it.:yes:
 
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