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Mach One 4024, 4024A, 4029 Information and Upgrades!

Crossover question

Thanks for all your quick responses!
I was up way too late last night moddin the Machs.
I noticed that when I removed the old caps they were all STRONGLY glued to each other or the black mounting frame. I completed the cap replacement and wondered if I need to glue these down as well. I guess so the conductors don’t touch and or vibrate within the cabinet. I just super glued the new .15 mh coil to the top of the old since I could not get it removed in fear of breaking the black base plate. If they need glued, what type of glue? I figured a hot glue gun sticks would not be aggressive enough. Here are some pics of the new crossover per video lady’s instructions. Thanks

PS I still smell the super glue! Wow that stuff is vaporous even outside!:tears:
Kramer
IMG00029-20100830-2346.jpg

IMG00028-20100830-2346.jpg
 
.15mh coil location???

:scratch2:In my last post I forgot to ask about the location of the .15mh coil location. My crossover did not have a .3mh coil to replace so I made an assumption. I replaced the .2mh coil. Is this correct? There is also a .4mh coil? Please advise. I have attached pics of both of these original coils on my crossover for reference. I can easily change it if needed. Thanks so much!
IMG00023-20100830-2214.jpg

IMG00026-20100830-2215.jpg
 
I simply pried them up with a screwdriver. It's a hot glue as well (you can tell pressing it as it's soft, unlike resins or other adhesives). I used a standard hot glue gun and put it under, between or any place that I felt vibration could occur.

I'm not sure about using superglue to attach the caps, mostly cause I'm not sure what the glue would do to the housing of the caps, hopefully nothing.
 
:scratch2:In my last post I forgot to ask about the location of the .15mh coil location. My crossover did not have a .3mh coil to replace so I made an assumption. I replaced the .2mh coil. Is this correct? There is also a .4mh coil? Please advise. I have attached pics of both of these original coils on my crossover for reference. I can easily change it if needed. Thanks so much!
View attachment 228275

View attachment 228276

I actually just completed all the upgrades and have the same 4024a speakers, the .3mh is in the 4029 model, also the 4029 model has a 2.7mh and a 1mh. The .4mh you are referring to is a 1.4mh You will need to change this to a 1mh also you will need to change your 3.mh for a 2.7mh to complete the upgrade. I used a meter that measured inductance and wound off the amount of wire need to reach required specs. Lastly i just used an architectural silicone to fasten caps and such, allows some movement but reduces all vibration.
 
I actually just completed all the upgrades and have the same 4024a speakers, the .3mh is in the 4029 model, also the 4029 model has a 2.7mh and a 1mh. The .4mh you are referring to is a 1.4mh You will need to change this to a 1mh also you will need to change your 3.mh for a 2.7mh to complete the upgrade. I used a meter that measured inductance and wound off the amount of wire need to reach required specs. Lastly i just used an architectural silicone to fasten caps and such, allows some movement but reduces all vibration.

Thanks for the reply.
OH. OK I can do that.
Are the cap values that I changed in the 4029 upgrade still valid?
I installed a
14uf in place of the 22uf
8.2uf in place of a 10uf
4uf in place of the yellow 2.75uf

Thanks
 
Do you remember how many un-winds you did for each coil? Thanks.
Tiga

I actually just completed all the upgrades and have the same 4024a speakers, the .3mh is in the 4029 model, also the 4029 model has a 2.7mh and a 1mh. The .4mh you are referring to is a 1.4mh You will need to change this to a 1mh also you will need to change your 3.mh for a 2.7mh to complete the upgrade. I used a meter that measured inductance and wound off the amount of wire need to reach required specs. Lastly i just used an architectural silicone to fasten caps and such, allows some movement but reduces all vibration.
 
Thanks for the reply.
OH. OK I can do that.
Are the cap values that I changed in the 4029 upgrade still valid?
I installed a
14uf in place of the 22uf
8.2uf in place of a 10uf
4uf in place of the yellow 2.75uf

Thanks
The caps as noted by VL are the same for the 4029 and the 4024, 4024a If you are upgrading a 4029 you will only need to deal with the .3coil
 
Yes it would be nice to know how much to unwind per coil, as some people like my self have older multi meters, i have an older Fluke that does not measure inductance... :( so i would need to know how much to unwind....


BTW nice pics KramerPage!
 
Do you remember how many un-winds you did for each coil? Thanks.
Tiga

I decided to buy a meter that reads inductance so i would unwind 5-6 at a time until i reached my value, i Know that when VL was working on her 4029 she noted that 52 rounds off of the .3 coil resulted in .154 If you have the 4024a like me maybe someone counted the rounds, sadly i got mixed up and do not want to post unverified info.
 
Yes it would be nice to know how much to unwind per coil, as some people like my self have older multi meters, i have an older Fluke that does not measure inductance... :( so i would need to know how much to unwind....


BTW nice pics KramerPage!

Your in Montreal if you wish you could borrow my meter to do your coils.
 
You can wind your own 0.15mH air core coil using approx.
75 turns of 22 gauge magnet wire,
1.5 inch diameter and 1.5 inch wide coil.

Can someone recommend a inductance meter that works to at least 3mH?
 
:scratch2:In my last post I forgot to ask about the location of the .15mh coil location. My crossover did not have a .3mh coil to replace so I made an assumption. I replaced the .2mh coil. Is this correct? There is also a .4mh coil? Please advise. I have attached pics of both of these original coils on my crossover for reference. I can easily change it if needed. Thanks so much!
View attachment 228275

View attachment 228276

Sorry for the repeat. I missed a page. I see that Sendust has already answered you!! I would of just deleted this post but I didn't see an option.
 
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Thanks Sendust, your most kind.....i just might take you up on that....

I will see this long weekend how i go i have a few things to finish up around the house before i get back to my babies(Machs)

I will let you know when i start my crossover mods...

Thanks...

P.S. I live in TMR, where abouts are you?
 
Thanks Sendust, your most kind.....i just might take you up on that....

I will see this long weekend how i go i have a few things to finish up around the house before i get back to my babies(Machs)

I will let you know when i start my crossover mods...

Thanks...

P.S. I live in TMR, where abouts are you?

No problem, maybe you will remember to measure the rounds or the length from each coil removed to let the others know
 
Hello, nice project good work.

Has anyone seen the crossover response graphs 4024 stock vs the modded 4029 (not A's)

Love to see the waterfall graphs too. This is sort of funny was fooling around with few old tube amps swapping tubes and biasing them, pulled out machs to use with them.
thought oh these suck. but could be much better with a decent crossover upgrade.

So to my surprise and delight this thread has been very amusing.

I have to know what is that amp in your avatar? tubes and mirrors>

In your pdf where you say a bit about speaker placement floor vs stands, what kind
of room was it ? cement floors or ? in room gain was how much?
why I ask is recently we moved from a old house with raised foundation and wood floors to a newer slab foundation , miss the wood floors and the way it made gear sound.
Is it safe to say that the crossover gave a 5 db increase at 20-40 hz by shifting the crossover points or was it largely due to the 3.5 holes cut to increase cabinet volume?
ADD A PASIVE RADIATOR?

ok who's going to report how they feel about the new sound with these changes?
 
Last edited:
Hello, nice project good work.

Has anyone seen the crossover response graphs 4024 stock vs the modded 4029 (not A's)

Love to see the waterfall graphs too. This is sort of funny was fooling around with few old tube amps swapping tubes and biasing them, pulled out machs to use with them.
thought oh these suck. but could be much better with a decent crossover upgrade.

So to my surprise and delight this thread has been very amusing.

I have to know what is that amp in your avatar? tubes and mirrors>

In your pdf where you say a bit about speaker placement floor vs stands, what kind
of room was it ? cement floors or ? in room gain was how much?
why I ask is recently we moved from a old house with raised foundation and wood floors to a newer slab foundation , miss the wood floors and the way it made gear sound.
Is it safe to say that the crossover gave a 5 db increase at 20-40 hz by shifting the crossover points or was it largely due to the 3.5 holes cut to increase cabinet volume?
ADD A PASIVE RADIATOR?

ok who's going to report how they feel about the new sound with these changes?

In my case the sound improvement has been dramatic, i have found the base more pronounced and tones blends very smoothly. I am not running a tube amp but my Marantz gives a very natural sound. I have let quite a few people hear these speaker at the beginning of the upgrades and now after. I used Money for Nothing by Dire Straits as reference through out the process and im very happy with the changes.
 
In my case the sound improvement has been dramatic, i have found the base more pronounced and tones blends very smoothly. I am not running a tube amp but my Marantz gives a very natural sound. I have let quite a few people hear these speaker at the beginning of the upgrades and now after. I used Money for Nothing by Dire Straits as reference through out the process and im very happy with the changes.


Too cool, say are yours the 4029's ? seems the newer 4029s are a 4 ohm vs the older what I have 4024s are 8 ohms woofers.read through the thread at 4:00 this morning and perhaps I missed if this was said. the crossover is going to be different in that case.

The lovely marantz...way to go. I have a few put away 2270 and an older intergrated in one of those pretty wood cases.

I did switch the machs over to the ss sumo setup and they sounded better.
good guess is the impedence is a bit tough on the el 34 monoblocks. just fooling round checking all the old tubes may even of been distortion from them.

Now I am really interested in enclosure, the design this acousta reed setup is nice idea to correct phase and back wave problems. man would it be nice to see the inside of the large cabinets. I know what a folded horn sub can do.:thmbsp:
 
Mach 1s Impedance

Too cool, say are yours the 4029's ? seems the newer 4029s are a 4 ohm vs the older what I have 4024s are 8 ohms woofers.read through the thread at 4:00 this morning and perhaps I missed if this was said. the crossover is going to be different in that case.

The lovely marantz...way to go. I have a few put away 2270 and an older intergrated in one of those pretty wood cases.

I did switch the machs over to the ss sumo setup and they sounded better.
good guess is the impedence is a bit tough on the el 34 monoblocks. just fooling round checking all the old tubes may even of been distortion from them.

Now I am really interested in enclosure, the design this acousta reed setup is nice idea to correct phase and back wave problems. man would it be nice to see the inside of the large cabinets. I know what a folded horn sub can do.:thmbsp:

Just some info for those who want to know. None of the Mach 1s were ever 4 ohm. None of them were ever even 6 ohms. The 4029 woofers are marked 6 ohm but that is the DCR of the driver. You can look at any ad all the way up to where they stopped selling the Mach 1s. You can do this at: www.radioshackcatalogs.com. You will see that all Ads for the 4029 model says 8 ohms, all Ads for the 4024 and the 4024a also says 8 ohms. I have tested all these drivers and they are all 8 ohms.!:yes:
 
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