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Mach One 4024, 4024A, 4029 Information and Upgrades!

You need to remove it from the back. Remove the two screws in the center, then the perimeter screws, then remove the panel. The tough part is removing the 8 nuts that hold the horn in place. They're in a tight, hard to reach place, not to mention long studs. I used 1/4" drive deep sockets to do the job. Once removed can you post images of the horn, including the model and date code on the horn. Many curious minds would like to verify drivers used in the 4024 vs 4024a. I believe they are the same, but confirmation would be nice.

Oh, if you're talking about the hole mods to the cabinet, that's a really tight space to be working in. You'll have better luck working from the woofer end for that. Unless you have an angle drill, which I just realized might do the trick, and I just happen to have a cordless angle drill. Hmmm, got me thinking now. In any case, you'll want a way to collect the saw dust, and pulling the woofer would make sense, as well as prevent damage to the cone from debris falling onto it. You could pull all the insulation out too.
 
For me, as authorized by VL, you can make a 12X4 square cut in the horn part of the cab, that's what i did, I removed the woofer and horn , turned the cabinet upside down and cut that way, much more room to work that way....

Also for comparison my horn is secured with a wooden bracket at the magnet end... do you have this as well... ? as i think some cabinets do not.. And the bottom of the cabinets are veneered too...
 
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Copa1934 said:
You need to remove it from the back. Remove the two screws in the center, then the perimeter screws, then remove the panel. The tough part is removing the 8 nuts that hold the horn in place.
Click to expand...
Which two scews in the center, then perimeter screws? Do you mean the screws holding the midrange driver to the horn?

Do you have to remove the entire horn before removing the midrange driver?

I'll get some photos up later.

Thanks
 
You'll be removing the whole horn assembly as one piece, which is the driver/horn assembly. It's mounted from inside the cabinet and can not be removed from the front. If you don't remove it entirely you run the risk of damaging one or both. There is a panel on the back of the speaker directly behind the Midrange that is the same dimensions as the horn opening. Most (all?) have two screws in the center of that panel (I believe the only screws on the back are to access the midrange). Then several more smaller screws around the perimeter of the panel need to be removed.

Hope that helps.
 
Yes that is helpful.

RE: Also for comparison my horn is secured with a wooden bracket at the magnet end... do you have this as well... ?

Yes my 4024 has this L shaped wooden bracket too.

I like to order some caps probably Solen PBs but holding out for Tier 2 as they are expensive.
 
For me to remove the horn for work i had to....

remove 6 small screws that hold the back panel for the mid horn enclosure section.

remove bolt that holds horn unit to wooden bracket

Unscrew 8 bolts that hold the whole horn to the cabinet, using a deep socket

once horn is out, i removed 4(silver) bolts that hold the magnet part to the horn

Once thats out there are 4 goldish screws with lock glue on them to remove to get to/at raw magnet and the transducer.

then i had to pry out the transducer, very carefully as not to destroy it

once out i cleaned everything up with alcohol pads

then i stuck on the magnet(probably wrong word to use), the self adhesive felt pad(the ones used for chairs to not scratch the floor is good)

i had troubles putting back the transducer as it was hard to get it centered, so i did something VL told me to try with a twist...

I applied a very small amount of cement glue to the plastic circular underside of the transducer, to be used to help keep it in place/inline while mounting the whole thing together. Once the glue was on there, i connected my amp to this little transducer and ran a 1KHZ tone through it, while moving it around to find the place where no buzzing would be heard, once that place was found, i held it for a few mins while the contact cement dried, then i re-assembled, and all was well.

Pics would help explain this, but you might understand once you have your horn apart..
:)

Check his tier 1 docs for those pics....

hope this helped a bit ?
:)
 
Hey what's up with the "L" bracket. I have two sets of 40-4024a speakers and none had this bracket. Anyone else not have the bracket? Mine had (2) screws that went in through the back panel into the back of the plastic cap on the back of the horn. Did this change in the 4029 only?
 
Raddek, what have you done?

Out of curiosity I sorted "Speakers" by Replies and then Views and the Minimus 7 and Mach One's rule the roost, for a single model of speaker. The only other model that comes close is the HPM-100. Interesting company if you ask me. I'm not going to read anything into this other than it shows a great interest in these "legends" if you will. Obviously a strong and curious following. All the other posts, as near as I can tell, are much broader, having to do with many models for a specific brand, or many makes/models in various categories, but none with such dedication for a single model.

Hey Raddek, if you're still around this is all your fault! Tongue firmly planted in cheek, of course.
 
I think the speaker sounds better as a two way.
If possible, I would consider replacing the midrange driver with something like the Selenium D220Ti-8 1" Titanium Horn Driver.
 
Like many I'm holding off using alternative speakers. However, I have thought about non-horn drivers for some time, like the mid used in the Mach Two speakers. Based on the many positive comments on the Minimus 7 I've even considered using the woofer, and possibly the tweeter, in place of the mid and tweeter of the Mach One. The idea here is taking the burden of the mid-bass away from the 15" and leveraging the nice dome tweeter of the 7. I kind of think I should have kept that to myself, but seeing how you suggested a change, what the heck, eh?
 
Not Needed

Copa1934 said:
Like many I'm holding off using alternative speakers. However, I have thought about non-horn drivers for some time, like the mid used in the Mach Two speakers. Based on the many positive comments on the Minimus 7 I've even considered using the woofer, and possibly the tweeter, in place of the mid and tweeter of the Mach One. The idea here is taking the burden of the mid-bass away from the 15" and leveraging the nice dome tweeter of the 7. I kind of think I should have kept that to myself, but seeing how you suggested a change, what the heck, eh?
Click to expand...

If and when you do these mods, all the things you don't like will be gone!! You need to try this before you give up on the stock drivers!!!:yes:
 
Thanks, again for your efforts, VL.
Your Honorary degree is in the mail...:D
All The Best-Ed

PS-If you see a white GMC running about, it's not me. I'm in the Ford this week.
 
Well some of us, including me do not have a plastic cap over the horn. That freaked me out when i first saw that in a pic in this thread, i thought i was missing parts, til i realized that others like me had a wooden bracket that held up the horn in the back, makes it harder to do the extra holes or opening that VL talks about, so count yourself lucky to have the plastic cap!

:)

i will post a pic soon of the wooden L bracket, and also for the record, the bottoms of the cabinet ARE veneered too..

Have a good on all..
 
VL,
do you prefer the modded Mach 1 or Nova 8Bs?
Would the Nova 8b work with the Mach 1s?
Both great threads Vlady.
 
Nova 8b vs Mach 1

tmblack said:
VL,
do you prefer the modded Mach 1 or Nova 8Bs?
Would the Nova 8b work with the Mach 1s?
Both great threads Vlady.
Click to expand...

In the stock format, I would most likely select the Nova 8b. Once they have both been modified with the new crossover both have the same bandwidth and great character! I could listen to either for days with no complaints! The Mach 1s having a greater dynamic range and the ability to handle more power, is the choice for high power listening. I have them both because they both do a great job at reproducing music after the mods!!:yes:
 
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Man this is weird stuff. I've read posts where only 4024 (no suffix) had veneer bottoms, while all others had painted bottoms. Now I'm reading about Mach's, including 4024a speakers that have a mid support bracket, while others, including my two pair, don't. I have to wonder just how many itterations of Mach One speakers there are out there? And I know this type of thing isn't unique to RS since similar things have showed up in almost the entire line of Pioneer HPM speakers.
 
Copa1934 said:
Man this is weird stuff. I've read posts where only 4024 (no suffix) had veneer bottoms, while all others had painted bottoms. Now I'm reading about Mach's, including 4024a speakers that have a mid support bracket, while others, including my two pair, don't. I have to wonder just how many itterations of Mach One speakers there are out there? And I know this type of thing isn't unique to RS since similar things have showed up in almost the entire line of Pioneer HPM speakers.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the world of manufacturing! Products change when one part becomes unavailable, costs too much, cheaper alternative found, easier assembly, etc.

I think that it would be hard to find an assembled product that has a long production run having no design changes.
 
Videolady,

After comparing the standard 4024a crossover with the 4029 crossover diagram in your Tier 1 document, I'm definitely looking forward to your future investigations regarding the 4024a drivers and crossovers.

Along with the variation in the woofer capacitor (33uf vs 22uf), there's some slight differences with the inductor and resistor values on the 4024a crossovers, including an 8ohm resistor in the midrange circuit on the 4024a vs 2ohm on the 4029!

There's a sketch of the 4024a crossover here:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=91136&d=1210792541

(midrange inductor not shown on the diagram is 1.4mh)
 
Do we have the voil coil effective resistance and inductance available for all 3 drivers?
I like to roll my own cross-over while I wait for the mod on my 4024.
BTW, is the Tier 1 a Butterworth or Linkwitz-Riley crossover?
 
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