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Marantz 1060 Recap

Update and Phase 2

I wound up replacing the Transistors on P400, P700(2SC945 H701,H702 ONLY) and P900 I noticed on the Right Channel some fuzzy sound. All good now...:music:

Replaced the MUNDORF EVO Aluminum + Oil Films with REL AudioCap RT. Going to give these a listen for a while. Needs 48hr burin-in but going to give this at least 200hr...

Till then.....:D
 

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What transistors did you use - from mouser?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
P900 Phone: (4)2SC1000 and (2)2SC458 replace with KSC1845FTA

P400 Tone/Pre-Amp: (4)2SC1000 replace with KSC1845FTA, (4)2SA493 replace with KSA992FTA

P700 Power Amp: (2)2SC945 H701,H702 replace with KSC945CGBU
(2) H705, H706 2SC371...replace with KSC945CGBU
(2) H707, H708 2SA562...replace with KSA733CGBU
 
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To each his own, those big film caps look like tube amplifier coupling caps, not something I would do myself but have at it- a small low voltage film cap would work sufficiently.
Dollars to donuts you wouldn't hear the difference between the two different types.
 
Michael Percy has the 200V .22 RT and is a bunch smaller then that.:scratch2:
I am not shy about the size...:D

To each his own, those big film caps look like tube amplifier coupling caps, not something I would do myself but have at it- a small low voltage film cap would work sufficiently.
Dollars to donuts you wouldn't hear the difference between the two different types.
The Original films: Yamato .22uf/50V

Sound: Good overall Bass thru Treble..A-bit laid back as talking with a Mask on.

Replaced with REL AudioCap RT .22uf/600v

Sound: Well...Not in the same league..Bass has Punch, Mids are noticed and Treble well defined.

I can tell you....I not day dreaming...:no:...There is a Noticeable difference.

Will update after 100hrs....
 

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I wound up replacing the Transistors on P400, P700(2SC945 H701,H702 ONLY) and P900 I noticed on the Right Channel some fuzzy sound. All good now...:music:

Replaced the MUNDORF EVO Aluminum + Oil Films with REL AudioCap RT. Going to give these a listen for a while. Needs 48hr burin-in but going to give this at least 200hr...

Till then.....:D
Update on the the REL AudioCap RT with 60hrs

Very Happy to report that the REL AudioCap RT are staying in..:yes:

Larger and Defined Bass, Mids are Smooth and Treble is Defined,,,All while retaining the Marantz Smooth sound.

As the MUNDORF EVO Aluminum + Oil Films had a Very Similar sound thru Bass-Treble....The REL AudioCap RT are a Mature Cap.
 
I used all RT's on the pre board in my 2220B, very nice.:thmbsp:




PCU on amp boards:


 
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Completed.....:yes:

This has the most Mods that I have done...Sounds GREAT!!!!

I can now get back to the Pioneer SX-1250...
 

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Another Upgrade to P700 Power Amp.....Saw a thread http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=590207 and "Leestereo" "replace C727/728 in the input low-pass filter with a 100pF Wima FKP or a C0G capacitor."

So going to replace C727/728, replace ALL the Resistors, R723/724, R729/730 Trimmer Resistors and R747-R750 Cement.

C727/728 - WIMA 100pf/1kV "505-FKP2100/1000/5"
R747-R750 - KOA Speer .24ohm/2W "660-MOX2CT631RR24J"
Resistors - Ohmite Carbon Little Demons

Parts Ordered and in Next Week.
 

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Just a note, the schematic lists C711 and C712 as 1uF, they are actually 10uF. After much discussion with Ben (Leestereo), and some real world testing, we determined that you can install 4.7uF/50V WIMA films in their place and still keep the low frequency cut off well below the audio range. C701,C702 are effectively in series with the output coupling caps in the preamp, so bumping them up to 2.2uF/50V WIMA film is a good idea.

I also like to replace those little epoxy diodes (H713 and H714) with 1N4448 or 1N4148 types and replace all the 1/2W carbon composition resistors with carbon film types. Fly back diodes across the outputs is also a good idea.

Tom
 

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I'm going to have to check the serial number on mine. My amp board looks like yours, same heat sinks etc, but all the resistors through out the amp are carbon films ,where I noticed carbon comp resistors in your amp an the amp BK did. Mine also has the gray Elna caps on the chassis. Did they change to carbon films in the later models maybe?
 
Problem with the "jumper" is the high/low filter switches make a snap sound when engaged and disengaged- these caps filter the DC in that part of the circuit.
 
I'm going to have to check the serial number on mine. My amp board looks like yours, same heat sinks etc, but all the resistors through out the amp are carbon films ,where I noticed carbon comp resistors in your amp an the amp BK did. Mine also has the gray Elna caps on the chassis. Did they change to carbon films in the later models maybe?

Some do have carbon film resistors, don't know if it was a production change.

Tom
 
Fantastic collaberation here! Having a film in the signal path is a great move here for 1060/2230 owners, where in the past a 10uf e-cap was used. I have a 2230 landing here on Monday, and also have something new I will be adding to the rebuild. I will give this version a listen, I am kind of locked in sonically with a 100uf Cerafine on the board in tandem with the Silmic II 10uf at this location. I will have to listen over both ways, as I think this 2230 will not be going anywhere soon.:scratch2:








Just a note, the schematic lists C711 and C712 as 1uF, they are actually 10uF. After much discussion with Ben (Leestereo), and some real world testing, we determined that you can install 4.7uF/50V WIMA films in their place and still keep the low frequency cut off well below the audio range. C701,C702 are effectively in series with the output coupling caps in the preamp, so bumping them up to 2.2uF/50V WIMA film is a good idea.

I also like to replace those little epoxy diodes (H713 and H714) with 1N4448 or 1N4148 types and replace all the 1/2W carbon composition resistors with carbon film types. Fly back diodes across the outputs is also a good idea.

Tom
 
Some do have carbon film resistors, don't know if it was a production change.

Tom

Serial # 15440. I noticed all the speaker wire terminals are black also, no red for positive like my 1030. I'll be replacing many of the carbon films with metal film but not having any carbon comps saves me a little work. :D Maybe a '75 or '76 model.
 
Serial # 15440. I noticed all the speaker wire terminals are black also, no red for positive like my 1030. I'll be replacing many of the carbon films with metal film but not having any carbon comps saves me a little work. :D Maybe a '75 or '76 model.
My S/N# 1063.....Resistors are Stock (Not for long).
 
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