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Marantz 1060 Recap

CohibaJoe said:
Another Upgrade to P700 Power Amp.....Saw a thread http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=590207 and "Leestereo" "replace C727/728 in the input low-pass filter with a 100pF Wima FKP or a C0G capacitor."

So going to replace C727/728, replace ALL the Resistors, R723/724, R729/730 Trimmer Resistors and R747-R750 Cement.

C727/728 - WIMA 100pf/1kV "505-FKP2100/1000/5"
R747-R750 - KOA Speer .24ohm/2W "660-MOX2CT631RR24J"
Resistors - Ohmite Carbon Little Demons

Parts Ordered and in Next Week.
Click to expand...
All Completed...:thmbsp:

Took a little time....But done.....Amp Board is Rock Solid and holding the values so no need to replace the Trimmer Resistors at this time.

All Resistors are Matched to Values...Checked the Old ones...Many were above the Values by 10-15%...WOW

I also replaced: Mouser Parts

H715/718: Schottky Diode 100V 100mA #610-CDSH270
C725-C726: WIMA Film Cap 250V .1uF 10% #505-M10.1/250/10P15
R753/754: KOA Speer 10Ohms 2W 5% #660-MO2C100J
 

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Possibly a stupid question, but since I have read about it a lot in this thread, I figured I would ask here.

What is the need for a burn in and how do you do it?

Was a fascinating read though. I have a little Marantz 2015 that I want to rejuvenate and in all honesty, I hope I don't have to go this far... :)
 
trikster said:
Possibly a stupid question, but since I have read about it a lot in this thread, I figured I would ask here.

What is the need for a burn in and how do you do it?

Was a fascinating read though. I have a little Marantz 2015 that I want to rejuvenate and in all honesty, I hope I don't have to go this far... :)
Click to expand...
The WIMA Films(100hr+) and Silmic II (50hrs-100hrs)need time to show there Colors. It is the Material that is used.
 
OK - im back having finally taken delivery of the 1060 after a long time with the techie.

OK I've only listened to it for a short while and the problems have gone - no clipping and lots volume but my techie bypassed almost everything including my tape out which i use to power my sub so I can't really evaluate it.

Pfffff not happy. Now how do I reconnect the tape out. .scratch.

Adrian - Spain
 
farflungstar said:
OK - im back having finally taken delivery of the 1060 after a long time with the techie.

OK I've only listened to it for a short while and the problems have gone - no clipping and lots volume but my techie bypassed almost everything including my tape out which i use to power my sub so I can't really evaluate it.

Pfffff not happy. Now how do I reconnect the tape out. .scratch.

Adrian - Spain
Click to expand...

Look for the wires leading from the TAPE IN jacks on the rear to the TAPE MON switch on the front. If they are still connected maybe the switch is still dirty.
 
Hello, I really enjoyed reading this thread. I recently purchased a 1060 and hope to implement many of the suggestions.
I have no original contributions to add, but I did go through and made a list of what I understood the changes to be. I'll post it below, and hopefully one of the outstanding original contributors will check for errors.

BOARD $NAME $COMPONENT ID $MARANTZ Service Manual $REPLACEMENT
Chassis $Chassis $C003 $Electrolytic, 4700uf, 80V $EPCOS 10000uf, 100v
Chassis $Chassis $C006-C007 $Electrolytic, 3000uf, 55V $Nichicon KG 6800uf, 63v
Chassis $Chassis $H001-H002 $2SD217 $ON Semi MJ21194G 72-VY2103M63Y5UG63V0
Chassis $Chassis $H003-H004 $2SD217 $ON Semi MJ21194G 72-VY2103M63Y5UG63V0
P400 $Tone/ Pre-Amp $C401-C402 $Mylar 0.22uf, 50v $MUNDORF EVO Aluminum + Oil Films 0.22uf, 450v 4%
P400 $Tone/ Pre-Amp $C414-C415 $Electrolytic, 1uf, 35V $WIMA film cap MKS4 1uf 63V
P400 $Tone/ Pre-Amp $H401-H402 $2SC1000 $KSC1845FTA
P400 $Tone/ Pre-Amp $H403-H404 $2SA493 $KSA992FTA
P400 $Tone/ Pre-Amp $H405-H406 $2SC1000 $KSC1845FTA
P400 $Tone/ Pre-Amp $H407-H408 $2SA493 $KSA992FTA
P700 $Power Amp $C701-C702 $Electrolytic, 0.47uf, 25V $2.2uF, 50V WIMA film
P700 $Power Amp $C711-C712 $Electrolytic, 1uf, (10uf) 35V $4.7uF, 50V WIMA films
P700 $Power Amp $C725-C726 $Mylar, 0.1uF, 200V $WIMA Film Cap 250V .1uF 10% #505-M10.1, 250, 10P15
P700 $Power Amp $C727-C728 $Ceramic, 1pf $WIMA 100pf, 1kV "505-FKP2100, 1000, 5"
P700 $Power Amp $H701-H702 $2SC945 $KSC945CGBU
P700 $Power Amp $H705-H706 $2SC371 $KSC945CGBU
P700 $Power Amp $H707-H708 $2SA562 $KSA733CGBU
P700 $Power Amp $H713-H714 $Varistor S3D16R $1N4448 or 1N4148 types
P700 $Power Amp $H715-H718 $Diode 1N60 $Schottky Diode 100V 100mA #610-CDSH270
P700 $Power Amp $R723-R724 $Trimmer, 100KOhm $
P700 $Power Amp $R729-R730 $Trimmer, 470KOhm $
P700 $Power Amp $R747-R750 $Wire Wound, 0.24Ohm 2W $KOA Speer .24ohm, 2W "660-MOX2CT631RR24J"
P700 $Power Amp $R753-R754 $Carbon, 10Ohm 2W $KOA Speer 10Ohms 2W 5% #660-MO2C100J
P900 $Phono $C917-C918 $Mylar 0.47uf, 50v $MUNDORF EVO Aluminum + Oil Films 0.47uf/450v 4%
P900 $Phono $H901-H904 $2SC1000 $KSC1845FTA
P900 $Phono $H905-H906 $2SC458 $KSC1845FTA

I hope there's enough value here to offset the crime of reviving a 3-4 year old dead thread......
Mac
 
CohibaJoe said:
The Original films: Yamato .22uf/50V

Sound: Good overall Bass thru Treble..A-bit laid back as talking with a Mask on.

Replaced with REL AudioCap RT .22uf/600v

Sound: Well...Not in the same league..Bass has Punch, Mids are noticed and Treble well defined.

I can tell you....I not day dreaming...:no:...There is a Noticeable difference.

Will update after 100hrs....
Click to expand...
Last night I removed the stock greenie caps from C401 and C402 and replaced them with Mundorf MCap EVP Alum/Oil. The "mask" has indeed been ripped off and everything has now opened up. I know that some people here claim the greenies are good and therefore should be left alone but in my opinion it's worth the extra funds to replace them. YMMV. IMG_1310.jpegIMG_2080.jpeg
 
mrdon said:
Last night I removed the stock greenie caps from C401 and C402 and replaced them with Mundorf MCap EVP Alum/Oil. The "mask" has indeed been ripped off and everything has now opened up. I know that some people here claim the greenies are good and therefore should be left alone but in my opinion it's worth the extra funds to replace them. YMMV. View attachment 2435641View attachment 2435642
Click to expand...
Nice to hear...Mundorf after 100hrs+ will open up even more. I do find the "Ugly Brown" caps that Marantz uses are Very Good...yet the Greenie are plain.
 
CohibaJoe said:
Nice to hear...Mundorf after 100hrs+ will open up even more. I do find the "Ugly Brown" caps that Marantz uses are Very Good...yet the Greenie are plain.
Click to expand...
I am about 50 hours in and getting sick of Diana Krall but in another 50 hours or so, it will all be worth it. :)
 
I did this upgrade once on a 2245. I couldn't hear much difference. But...my ears are not always that discerning, and perhaps I didn't run it long enough to hear the difference. I might give it another try. Nice work!
IMG_1215.JPG
 
EastPoint said:
I upgrade those to .33s. Supposed to be better. Read it on AK a while back.
Click to expand...
I restored two of these but left the green chiclett caps. I may have to give the Mundorf's a go. Do you happen to remember the reason for going with .33uf caps instead of the .22uf's?
 
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