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Marantz 2220B problem.

Hey I have no idea which locations I need to desolder to remove the speaker relay.
As you can see, there are way more solder points on the board than what the manual shows.
I'm not all that great at tracing them to right spots & hoping one of y'all have done this before & know where I need to desolder. Thanks...
 

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I have no experience with a 2220B, but is that your relay, the foggy/translucent rectangle next to the copper coil (Zobel Network)?
index.php


I read recently somewhere that there was no direct replacement for that version of relay. You'd need to refurb your stock one, or modify another Omron relay model to get it to fit and work.

EDIT: Do you have any pics of your new replacement relay, the pin-out on the bottom?
 
This might help:

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...eaker-relay-replacement.881545/#post-13024340

Also, "There were 2 different relays used during the production life of the 2220B. The clear covered one is comparable to a modern MY series from Omron. The hazy, translucent one doesn’t have a modern comparable."

More discussion of the issue here:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/need-a-relay-for-my-2220b-not-an-my.418602/

One of these threads has a diagram of the pin connections.
 
How do you feel about your soldering skills?
It's hard to see but I'm thinking you have some bad solder joints. And what's up with that lead on the left- it's not touching anything?
upload_2020-12-16_6-9-36.png
 
The one on the left, is it even attached?
the one is green is pretty bad too. Probably the bad solder joints aren't your issue - but they could be and it would be good to try to improve on those.
View attachment 2066986

And ya I can overly picky about solder joints, and maybe hard to see in my pic. But the solder joints should be smooth and shiny, no cracks or holes.
upload_2020-12-16_6-16-57.png
 

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I think it's great that you're giving this a large effort but I also think you're gonna need to practice soldering before hitting this board again.
These units and the work you are doing deserves nice solder joints - maybe your soldering iron isn't up to snuff? Which one is is?
Also, do you have a spare unit of any sort, low value that you could practice on for - not long, like 60 minutes. Maybe in 15 minute sessions - that's a small investment of time compared to what you've already spent on it.
And believe me - I know, I've been there. More than once.
Hang in there.
 
I agree with @Dingman, it's gonna be hard to diagnose the unit when you have so many solder joints that look suspect. Many of those circled in the above image could be faulty. It seems like your solder isn't flowing properly; perhaps not enough heat or not enough flux? Usually problems like this are caused by cheap irons. And yeah, looks like you have a lifted/destroyed trace on the left side of the second image Dingman sent, you'll probably have to give that a little jumper.
 
Dingman said:
The one on the left, is it even attached?
the one is green is pretty bad too. Probably the bad solder joints aren't your issue - but they could be and it would be good to try to improve on those.
View attachment 2066986

And ya I can overly picky about solder joints, and maybe hard to see in my pic. But the solder joints should be smooth and shiny, no cracks or holes.
View attachment 2066989
Click to expand...

Yeah you're right. That's one that had broken & that was a "before picture"... I think I posted by accident.

There are a few that look bad, or at least suspect, to me as well but the only ones I've even touched are the ones where capacitors were replaced. Everything else was already like that & has been for years (I assume original since it had all the original parts)
 
that's all good then.
That's a bit of a puzzle about those awful looking joints. IMO, if you have a good iron and are confident - I'd reflow those.
 
Jermy69 said:
Yeah you're right. That's one that had broken & that was a "before picture"... I think I posted by accident.

There are a few that look bad, or at least suspect, to me as well but the only ones I've even touched are the ones where capacitors were replaced. Everything else was already like that & has been for years (I assume original since it had all the original parts)
Click to expand...

Ok here is the more recent picture. That joint was bad & I soldered it to another part of the trace.
 

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fromnowon said:
This might help:

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...eaker-relay-replacement.881545/#post-13024340

Also, "There were 2 different relays used during the production life of the 2220B. The clear covered one is comparable to a modern MY series from Omron. The hazy, translucent one doesn’t have a modern comparable."

More discussion of the issue here:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/need-a-relay-for-my-2220b-not-an-my.418602/

One of these threads has a diagram of the pin connections.
Click to expand...

fromnowon said:
This might help:

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...eaker-relay-replacement.881545/#post-13024340

Also, "There were 2 different relays used during the production life of the 2220B. The clear covered one is comparable to a modern MY series from Omron. The hazy, translucent one doesn’t have a modern comparable."

More discussion of the issue here:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/need-a-relay-for-my-2220b-not-an-my.418602/

One of these threads has a diagram of the pin connections.
Click to expand...

Yeah mine has the relay that's a whitish color...
The clear relay came in the kit...its Omron.
So in short, I should leave that alone???
 
I'd contact the seller and tell him you have the 2220B model with the LC hazy/translucent relay and see if he'll help you with a refund including return shipping cost and/or supplying the correct relay.

Jermy69 said:
So in short, I should leave that alone???
Click to expand...
Sorry I don't know. I've read that these can be problematic but I don't know if that's your issue necessarily. Wish i could help but I don't know what to suggest, maybe others will chime in. If it worked at one point (clicked) then it may not be your biggest problem.
 
fromnowon said:
I'd contact the seller and tell him you have the 2220B model with the LC hazy/translucent relay and see if he'll help you with a refund including return shipping cost and/or supplying the correct relay.

I think y'all probably know the seller. He seems to be well known & sells these kits.
Other than that I won't put any names without their permission.
But I had asked around before I even ordered & everyone had nothing but great things to say about them..
The only complaint is that a few bags in my kit were missing a part...sometimes a few parts.
But I can live with that since they were mostly fkr the AM/FM boards.
The phonograph board was missing a few that are called "WIMA" caps though so that kinda sucked.
He's been trying to help as well as y'all...
I just want my left channel to sound ok again.
Sorry I don't know. I've read that these can be problematic but I don't know if that's your issue necessarily. Wish i could help but I don't know what to suggest, maybe others will chime in. If it worked at one point (clicked) then it may not be your biggest problem.
Click to expand...
 
I think y'all probably know the seller. He seems to be well known & sells these kits.
Other than that I won't put any names without their permission.
But I had asked around before I even ordered & everyone had nothing but great things to say about them..
The only complaint is that a few bags in my kit were missing a part...sometimes a few parts.
But I can live with that since they were mostly fkr the AM/FM boards.
The phonograph board was missing a few that are called "WIMA" caps though so that kinda sucked.
He's been trying to help as well as y'all...
I just want my left channel to sound ok again
 
Hey y'all...
What's this little circle on the trace???
There's also another one just like it on the opposite side of the board.
 

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fromnowon said:
I'd contact the seller and tell him you have the 2220B model with the LC hazy/translucent relay and see if he'll help you with a refund including return shipping cost and/or supplying the correct relay.

By the way the relay does work (as far as I can tell anyway.)
It clicks a couple seconds after turning the power on.
So I'm gonna leave it alone.
I'm curious about the thing on the board I posted above

Sorry I don't know. I've read that these can be problematic but I don't know if that's your issue necessarily. Wish i could help but I don't know what to suggest, maybe others will chime in. If it worked at one point (clicked) then it may not be your biggest problem.
Click to expand...
 
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