LFazio51
Active Member
No doubt! Looks like way more value than the Peak Electronics units at roughly $135ea! Do you know if its possible to check the components while still in place?
Marantz 2265 Restoration Tips Wanted
- Thread starter LFazio51
- Start date
No doubt! Looks like way more value than the Peak Electronics units at roughly $135ea! Do you know if its possible to check the components while still in place?
KutzlerTrans
Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
Isolate the part from the circuit. If it has two legs, pull one. If it has three legs like a transistor, just pull it out. Getting two legs free is not worth your time.
I like my peak tester for checking in circuit because of the mini clips. I also like it because i told myself to after i got ripped buying it
Its a nice tool, but unfortunately for the peak company, the chinese are steeling the idea. May be that i,m backwards onthat, but its like buying from walmart. Bad for the country, but good for the individual.
Enough about my patriotic speech.
I like .031 thick Kester 44 solder 66/44
Its real important not to burn tbe crap out of the board waiting for thick solder to melt. Running too cold or hot will do the same thing. I thing Randy and i had this conversation about temp once.
I set my station for 400 degrees. Turns out that was Celcius. Its 700- 750 F
I like my peak tester for checking in circuit because of the mini clips. I also like it because i told myself to after i got ripped buying it
Its a nice tool, but unfortunately for the peak company, the chinese are steeling the idea. May be that i,m backwards onthat, but its like buying from walmart. Bad for the country, but good for the individual.
Enough about my patriotic speech.
I like .031 thick Kester 44 solder 66/44
Its real important not to burn tbe crap out of the board waiting for thick solder to melt. Running too cold or hot will do the same thing. I thing Randy and i had this conversation about temp once.
I set my station for 400 degrees. Turns out that was Celcius. Its 700- 750 F
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Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
I have one of those too. I think I paid $13 on fleaBay. I mainly use it for hfe matching transistors for diff pairs.
KutzlerTrans
Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
I also wanted to say that the blue leds look great as long as they are not too bright. 3 bulb units work well. The green might be stock but the blue gives the unit a real rich look.
BTW, Randy never fails to come up with answers to weird stuff like why the lights are green. Thank god , because this way i can concentrate on important stuff like where the channel changer is or when suppers gonna be ready.
BTW, Randy never fails to come up with answers to weird stuff like why the lights are green. Thank god , because this way i can concentrate on important stuff like where the channel changer is or when suppers gonna be ready.
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LFazio51
Active Member
Ok, I'm a bit confused as I've never seen a solder ratio higher than 100%?? Are we entering new territory here or are we dealing with a "typo?"
LFazio51
Active Member
Hmm, "hfe" - would that be the "Human Hemochromatosis protein," also known as the HFE protein, OR, the current gain or amplification factor of a transistor Steven!??
If the latter, then I can only assume that when replacing transistors in the same circuit, the hFE must match? Trying to learn here my friends...
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
My understanding, as shallow as it is, is that the differential pair of transistors on the power amp board needs to be hFE matched as closely as possible. I think it has to do with being able to get a solid bias adjustment (if not, I'm sure I will get correctedHmm, "hfe" - would that be the "Human Hemochromatosis protein," also known as the HFE protein, OR, the current gain or amplification factor of a transistor Steven!??
). I have a cheap DMM that supposedly measures hFE in addition to this barebones digital Tester. Both seem to get close to the same measurements on any single transistor. Some people also hFE match transistors that have a complementary transistor for each channel on the same board. I don't know if there is a consensus on that or not.
KutzlerTrans
Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
On the roll of solder, It says SN63PB37 #66/44
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...8SO162&usg=AFQjCNFDCbKDWw2Gn2qBxjhcpEbNbH9bLw
Its 63% tin and 37% lead. Your question had me wondering if i read it wrong. i was thinking %rate , when i wrote that, as you correctly thought i meant. Now were both smarter
Good catch.
The nice thing about our group is that mis information usually gets caught before something bad happens. I'm not dyslexic but i have been known to butcher up a number now and then.
One of the smartest guy i think, was the guy that attached the eraser to the other end of the pencil.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...8SO162&usg=AFQjCNFDCbKDWw2Gn2qBxjhcpEbNbH9bLw
Its 63% tin and 37% lead. Your question had me wondering if i read it wrong. i was thinking %rate , when i wrote that, as you correctly thought i meant. Now were both smarter
Good catch. The nice thing about our group is that mis information usually gets caught before something bad happens. I'm not dyslexic but i have been known to butcher up a number now and then.
One of the smartest guy i think, was the guy that attached the eraser to the other end of the pencil.
The "44" is the flux formulation, nothing to do with the lead to tin ratio which would be 63/37. I/m not sure what the "66" represents, the Kester website doesn't mention that number.
The differential pair of transistors benefits the most from matching. I'm not sure about bias stability but I do know it helps with making offset minimal in amps without a dc offset adjustment and makes adjustable amps set up near the pot's midpoint.
The differential pair of transistors benefits the most from matching. I'm not sure about bias stability but I do know it helps with making offset minimal in amps without a dc offset adjustment and makes adjustable amps set up near the pot's midpoint.
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
OK, that's what I read. It wasn't bias they stabilized. It was DC offset. I knew it was a power amp parameter, but couldn't remember which one. Thanks!
LFazio51
Active Member
Freaking amazing! You guys are simply incredible! I'm overwhelmed with your willingness to help and "weigh-in" on such topics. Not to mention the absolute enjoyment I'm experiencing from the vast amount of knowledge flowing through these pages. I love details and truly want to get things right the first time. I realize that I won't be 100% as there's no substitution for experience, but, I'm confident that the help you are offering will pay HUGE DIVIDENDS - if I ever get this dam project off the ground! lol!.
It's crazy how a small comment can result in a significant piece of information. The hFE information is incredibly insightful and makes perfect sense; designers create circuits that can be adjusted to address this problem and ensure proper functionality. I'm certain the problem worsens, requiring greater adjustment, when transistor pairs are not hFE matched. Anything that can minimize this error and reduce the need for adjustment, has to be good for the circuit, resulting in better performance and longevity. The analogy that comes to mind would be a great recording vs. a crappy one; one requires no application of tonal adjustment while the other the opposite. And we all know that anytime you have to "add" to the signal, you are moving further from "the musical truth!"
I did some research and the "66" refers to the core size, which directly correlates to flux % (i.e. core #66 offers 3.3% flux, core #60 offers 6% flux)
[Kester Website Link: http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/faq#46135-how-does-core-size-correlate-to-flux-percentage]
Apparently I ordered some cheap stuff from Amazon "DMiotech 0.8mm 100g 63/37 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder" but at least it's the right size and percentage. I ordered the cheap stuff since I had to purchase the Hakko soldering station, as well as many other tools, and I "cheaped-out!" However, this isn't NOT an area I want to "skimp" with so, I'll get the Kester 44 on order now!
Started a conversation with EW about flux paste vs. liquid flux in bottles, would be curious to get your thoughts.
It's crazy how a small comment can result in a significant piece of information. The hFE information is incredibly insightful and makes perfect sense; designers create circuits that can be adjusted to address this problem and ensure proper functionality. I'm certain the problem worsens, requiring greater adjustment, when transistor pairs are not hFE matched. Anything that can minimize this error and reduce the need for adjustment, has to be good for the circuit, resulting in better performance and longevity. The analogy that comes to mind would be a great recording vs. a crappy one; one requires no application of tonal adjustment while the other the opposite. And we all know that anytime you have to "add" to the signal, you are moving further from "the musical truth!"
I did some research and the "66" refers to the core size, which directly correlates to flux % (i.e. core #66 offers 3.3% flux, core #60 offers 6% flux)
[Kester Website Link: http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/faq#46135-how-does-core-size-correlate-to-flux-percentage]
Apparently I ordered some cheap stuff from Amazon "DMiotech 0.8mm 100g 63/37 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder" but at least it's the right size and percentage. I ordered the cheap stuff since I had to purchase the Hakko soldering station, as well as many other tools, and I "cheaped-out!" However, this isn't NOT an area I want to "skimp" with so, I'll get the Kester 44 on order now!
Started a conversation with EW about flux paste vs. liquid flux in bottles, would be curious to get your thoughts.
LFazio51
Active Member
I'm planning to start with the P800 power supply board first, so, it looks like there are (8) electrolytic caps, (1) Film, and (1) ceramic. My plans have been strictly focused on "re-capping" but if there are other known components I should replace, please feel free to share.
Also, I've heard that I should increase the voltage rating on some of these as well, any helpful "tid-bits' here would be most welcome as well.
Also, I've heard that I should increase the voltage rating on some of these as well, any helpful "tid-bits' here would be most welcome as well.
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
I use liquid flux with braid on the few occasions when I have to use braid to desolder. I keep paste for putting on larger joints ( larger wires on lugs, etc.). It just seems to take less amount of time with the heat on the joint for the solder to flow. But that's just me.
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
Some people replace almost everything on the board. From reading many rebuild threads, I'm at the point where I replace all of the electrolytic capacitors and known troublesome diodes and transistors. Looking at the parts list in the SM, I don't see anything that usually hear of as being troublesome. I think most people say other than caps, do as little as possible. Be sure and use 105 degree rated caps on the power supply. In Nichicons, that's usually the PW series.I'm planning to start with the P800 power supply board first, so, it looks like there are (8) electrolytic caps, (1) Film, and (1) ceramic. My plans have been strictly focused on "re-capping" but if there are other known components I should replace, please feel free to share.
Also, I've heard that I should increase the voltage rating on some of these as well, any helpful "tid-bits' here would be most welcome as well.
MBuras
Restoration is an Addiction
Be sure to go back to post #14 and follow @Leestereo advice on the P800 rebuild. He's got solid, technical reasons why both the capacitance and voltage can and should be increased on certain caps. He's also willing to take questions if you have any.
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
Forgot to mention, I always replace the protection relay on the power supply board. They are relatively cheap, and their contacts are bound to be somewhat carbonized after years of use.
bluehills5
Active Member
I would also replace the power switch as there is a very good chance it will die in the next few years. Not sure if the 2265 uses this model as well but most Marantz models use a common & cheap (under $3) switch like this one from Mouser - p/n 612-P227EE2B20A. Perhaps add a snubber cap (eg 80-C981U103MYVDBWL20) and 120 ohm 1/4 watt resister as well.
And here is a recent post about cheapo ebay component testers that are surprising OK.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cheap-component-tester.749729/#post-10175206
And here is a recent post about cheapo ebay component testers that are surprising OK.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cheap-component-tester.749729/#post-10175206
LFazio51
Active Member
Great feedback Steven. I've been reviewing Leestereo's links for the P800 and he includes an OMRON replacement relay as well. Unfortunately, the part number he lists as the original is the note the same as the "LY20240090" listed in the SM. He indicates that the OMRON MY2-02-DC24 is the direct replacement - is this what you're using?