Marantz 2265 Restoration Tips Wanted

[LFazio51]

I would also replace the power switch as there is a very good chance it will die in the next few years. Not sure if the 2265 uses this model as well but most Marantz models use a common & cheap (under $3) switch like this one from Mouser - p/n 612-P227EE2B20A. Perhaps add a snubber cap (eg 80-C981U103MYVDBWL20) and 120 ohm 1/4 watt resister as well.

Bluehills5, the SM calls the switch "S002" but I cannot locate the actual part no. anywhere in the manual, therefore, I'm not sure if it's the same switch that you're mentioning. It does in fact appear to have a resistor and cap attached (see below).

 

[MBuras]

OMRON MY2-02-DC24

Yep. That's the correct one and the same one I used in my 2285 rebuild.

 

[MBuras]

If the switch is the same as the 2285 it's not only the slotted variety, not the standard square peg from previous versions, but also mounted to an integrated bracket like the 2275. Takes a lot of creativity to replace that switch and I choose not to on my unit. I think @catrafter has a thread somewhere about replacing that switch on a 2275. Fuzzy memory. Maybe it was someone else.

 

[LFazio51]

Having difficulty locating the correct Nichicon PW Low ESR series capacitors that LeeStereo refers to in his "P800 post" on Mouser. If anyone gets some time and could throw me a link, just to make certain I'm selecting the correct ones, I'd really appreciate it.

 

[MBuras]

Category = Capacitors
Type > Aluminum Electrolytic > Type > Leaded
Checkbox for stocked
Manufactuer = Nichicon, Termination Style = Radial
Apply Filters
Series = UPW
Apply Filters
find voltage and capacitance needed
Apply Filters
And there's your first result: http://www.mouser.com/Nichicon/Pass...cv7?P=1yzudl0Z1z0z7l5Z1z0zlbmZ1z0wrk5Z1yx4avu

Just check the variations for width and height clearances and your done. Press back on your browser and reselect voltage/capacitance, apply filter and get the next one. It get's easier with time.

 

[Steven Tate]

That's it! (referring to the relay part number)

 

[LFazio51]

Category = Capacitors
Type > Aluminum Electrolytic > Type > Leaded
Checkbox for stocked
Manufactuer = Nichicon, Termination Style = Radial
Apply Filters
Series = UPW
Apply Filters
find voltage and capacitance needed
Apply Filters
And there's your first result: http://www.mouser.com/Nichicon/Pass...cv7?P=1yzudl0Z1z0z7l5Z1z0zlbmZ1z0wrk5Z1yx4avu

Just check the variations for width and height clearances and your done. Press back on your browser and reselect voltage/capacitance, apply filter and get the next one. It get's easier with time.

Thanks SO MUCH! I'd really like to order ALL capacitors at once so I may need to process the same information for the Power Amp and Tone Boards as well. Damit Man - this is going to take a while!

Thanks again!

Lynn

 

[Steven Tate]

Do note that on some boards (usually not the power supply), the height of the new cap becomes important. Some of the boards have a metal cover or are on the bottom near the bottom cover, and 2 or 3 extra mm in length puts them in contact with metal with a bad result. So before you remove the larger caps on any board, look for height clearance. If it is close, measure the cap and make sure the one you select is not taller. Often there is more than one cap of the same value - possibly one taller and thinner while another is fatter and shorter.

 

[Leestereo]

Having difficulty locating the correct Nichicon PW Low ESR series capacitors that LeeStereo refers to in his "P800 post" on Mouser...

Since the 2235B P800 restoration AK thread is already >2.5 years old, it is possible that some of the capacitors specified are no longer available on Mouser. Here is a thread with a more recent P800 component list that was compiled for the 2275 owned by @thxdave: 2275 rebuild project. Also note that generally you can use any low ESR type from a reputable brand (some examples are Nichicon PW, Panasonic FM, UCC KZE) as long as you match lead spacing and other physical parameters for the actual board space available.

 

[MBuras]

Damit Man - this is going to take a while!

For sure the least fun part of the job is documenting the parts on the board, finding the appropriate replacements and putting together the Mouser order. But it's like Christmas when that box of parts shows up and you can get to work. At least the first few dozen times.

 

[LFazio51]

Do note that on some boards (usually not the power supply), the height of the new cap becomes important. Some of the boards have a metal cover or are on the bottom near the bottom cover, and 2 or 3 extra mm in length puts them in contact with metal with a bad result. So before you remove the larger caps on any board, look for height clearance. If it is close, measure the cap and make sure the one you select is not taller. Often there is more than one cap of the same value - possibly one taller and thinner while another is fatter and shorter.

Great advice - guess I'll have to pull-out the calipers!

 

[rBuckner]

As a grizzled veteran of an electronics career, I don't use flux to do anything - sort of! In the case where something isn't desoldering well, I add fresh solder which adds flux from the core, hence why I said "sort of". That also adds solder mass which seems to pull off better with my hand operated vacuum tool, the old school blue and yellow "Soldapullt" style (still available with a new name). The latter may just be my imagination but the fresh flux from adding solder is real! There is nothing wrong with adding flux like Steven does though - it just may not be necessary but could be easier and there's nothing wrong with that.

I also always change out the speaker relays. I don't change ceramic or film caps in power supplies.

 

[LFazio51]

I finally opened the unit this weekend and was pleasantly surprised with it's condition!

P800 Board

Volume Knob - pot is slightly bent - if anyone has experience in straightening, please feel free to share

 

[LFazio51]

I would also replace the power switch as there is a very good chance it will die in the next few years. Not sure if the 2265 uses this model as well but most Marantz models use a common & cheap (under $3) switch like this one from Mouser - p/n 612-P227EE2B20A. Perhaps add a snubber cap (eg 80-C981U103MYVDBWL20) and 120 ohm 1/4 watt resister as well.

I've posted a photo of the power switch below - Does it appear to be the same as the switched used in the 2275? I've not experienced any issues thus far with it, however, when I was taking photos, and had the unit standing on its side, I did notice that it "stuck" a few times.

2265 Power Switch

 

[LFazio51]

I think it would be prudent to test the filter caps prior to making the Mouser order but at least there's no visible signs of damage.

 

[Steven Tate]

I think it would be prudent to test the filter caps prior to making the Mouser order but at least there's no visible signs of damage.

Don't bother. Replace them.

 

[LFazio51]

Don't bother. Replace them.

Thanks for the advice Steven. Given your recommendation, presume you feel that even if within spec, they'll likely need to be replaced soon? Assuming I replace, then I want to utilize the absolute best audio grade cap available, or, at least achieve a point in quality where any greater investment could be considered a point of "diminishing returns."

 

[Steven Tate]

These are electrolytic caps. They do degrade. It's just a matter of time. If you're going to be in there, it just makes sense to me to replace them. It's really not as hard as many of the other things you will do in there. These are 10000uF 55V caps. I know Leestereo often recommends upping the capacitance on these, and he knows what he is talking about. It looks best if you can get a cap of the same diameter, so measure what you have. They are probably 40mm in diameter. If so, at the very least, you could use the Nichicon Gold Tune 10000uF 63v caps like I just used in my 2245. But look for other recommendations on increasing the capacitance. Mouser number on those Gold Tunes is 647-LKG1J103MKN. I just ordered some for another 2245 and they were back ordered until 1/9.

Edit: the AK database has a cap list for the 2265b. Not sure if yours is the same, but it says the 10000uF 55v caps are 35mm X 80mm. It has part numbers for a couple of substitutes. Might want to look into those.

 

[catrafter]

That is a nice clean one!
The 'catch' mechanism on the power switch can be lubed with a touch of lithium grease.

A 2265 shares little with a 2265B.
Tom

 

[MBuras]

Steven is correct that most restorations include new filter caps as they can tend to degrade over time and it's good insurance but not always required. For the filter caps you're not looking for audio quality. You'll be looking for the highest ripple current rating and lowest ESR you can fit into those clamps.

Here's a short article on the subject of filtering rectified voltage and I'm sure there are plenty more out on the web. http://www.radio-electronics.com/in...er-filtering-smoothing-capacitor-circuits.php

As with everything else on this forum there will likely be differing opinions. Use whichever one makes sense to you.