Marantz 2325 Left Channel Pre Has No Output
Good
Good catch, I've been looking at the wrong HE(02) with artwork/service manual upside down...
The purple dots are Pin 5 of HE01 and GND. The multimeter should charge up CE09, so it is suspect, replace.
(Little busy at moment).
Mouser, digikey and plenty of others...
Metal film are the preferred type for general audio, however you need to look at what the wanted properties
of the resistor you want to replace. Power handling? 0.25W,,,10W? fusible? flame proof/retardent? Low(er) noise?
Probably best to identify the resistor eg, R123 and in what amp... Metal film 0.25W would cover 95% of uses
richardg0n
Active Member
Looks like a fun project!
Just scanned through this thread and I have a suggestion.
Since you have the boards out clean off all of the old flux. You will be able to see the solder joints much more clearly. It's easy to do.. Just get a metal tray, denatured alcohol and a tooth brush. Put the board solder side down in the pan and cover the board with the alcohol and let it soak for a couple of min. Pull the board out and work the flux with the tooth brush then rinse with water. Repeat until it's clean and then blow it dry with compressed air. You will need to use some fader lube on the controls when done but the board will look great and you will be able to see the traces and pads. Several of them look to be really bad.
Just scanned through this thread and I have a suggestion.
Since you have the boards out clean off all of the old flux. You will be able to see the solder joints much more clearly. It's easy to do.. Just get a metal tray, denatured alcohol and a tooth brush. Put the board solder side down in the pan and cover the board with the alcohol and let it soak for a couple of min. Pull the board out and work the flux with the tooth brush then rinse with water. Repeat until it's clean and then blow it dry with compressed air. You will need to use some fader lube on the controls when done but the board will look great and you will be able to see the traces and pads. Several of them look to be really bad.
The service manual parts section. You quickly become familiar with the various sizes and can identify on sight.
The Xicon is something of a high spec item, 1% 50ppm, so it's a little more expensive, it will certainly do.
Did you replace this cap. A near short between these points is unexpected, could be caused by solder splatter,
probably what @txturbo is getting to.
richardg0n
Active Member
Thanks Mike. I have a service manual I downloaded from HiFi Engine. It appears to be incomplete because it doesn't contain the parts section. Any suggestions where I can get my hands on a complete service manual and schematic?
I replaced the cap when I changed over to the Sparkos Labs BA312-M's. Should I check the cap to make sure its good?
I have the hfe manual, yep, incomplete, got the other from here
https://www.manualslib.com/download/900230/Marantz-2325.html
or maybe it was from the AK database...
Pull the cap out then measure resistance between purple points as per post #61. A near short on these points
does not look good to me, do the same measurement on other channel, pin 5 to GND/chassis.
https://www.manualslib.com/download/900230/Marantz-2325.html
or maybe it was from the AK database...
Pull the cap out then measure resistance between purple points as per post #61. A near short on these points
does not look good to me, do the same measurement on other channel, pin 5 to GND/chassis.
richardg0n
Active Member
Mike,
The good news, I replaced CE09 and I am now hearing a full signal on the left channel. The bad news, I'm hearing a sizzling sound coming from the left channel when I turn on the receiver both in the headphones and also when I have the speakers connected and main or remote engaged. The sizzling starts at a higher volume and slowly goes silent.
Sizzling sound is a bit unusual... dc offset would present as a hiss/white noise. The troubleshooting technique is the same
as that used for the "low volume" issue, ie, use the scope to find out where the sizzling is introduced. Start with the speaker posts
so you can see what the sizzling "looks like" (post a pix) then test at pre-out RCA's also RE09, RE10. The idea is to divide the amp
in half by testing at pre-out's, identify if pre or power amp issue, then divide that section in half and test there...
as that used for the "low volume" issue, ie, use the scope to find out where the sizzling is introduced. Start with the speaker posts
so you can see what the sizzling "looks like" (post a pix) then test at pre-out RCA's also RE09, RE10. The idea is to divide the amp
in half by testing at pre-out's, identify if pre or power amp issue, then divide that section in half and test there...
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
I have a 2325 that does exactly the same thing. "Sizzle" is a good description of the sound. It happens as soon as it is powered up, and the sizzle diminishes until it disappears about ten seconds in. This is after a complete recap/rebuild. I'm guessing noisy transistor, because I only replaced known troublesome ones. But I haven't built up the energy to search out the demon because it doesn't seem to affect anything after ten seconds. I'll be watching to see if you find the culprit.
richardg0n
Active Member
SOLVED! I located the sizzling noise only on the left speaker posts for main and remote. I can also hear the noise on the left channel when I have headphones connected. There was no noise when I tested the PRE out RCA's and no reading on RE09, RE10.
I suspected it may be PE01 because I plugged in another original PE01 from another 2325 and did not hear the sizzling sound. I again swapped back to the PE01 I am troubleshooting and used freeze spray on the transistors HE03/HE04 and heard the sizzle sound return.
I replaced HE03/HE04 transistors 2SC1327 with KSC1845 and 2SA721 with KSA992. I also replace HE05/HE06. Sizzling noise is gone!
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richardg0n
Active Member
I'm restoring my third 2325 and wanted to share another repair experience with this similar issue on PE01. In the case of my third 2325, I noticed a low humming sound when switching Tone Mode to "in", "250hz", "4khz, "250hz/44khz". Switching Tone Mode to "out" the humming sound was gone. The solution again was to swap out the transistor at HE03/HE04/HE05/HE06. It seems these transistors are prone to fail and introduce unwanted noise. Best practice may be to change these transistors when recapping PE01. I hope this helps other people who are experiencing similar issues.
Hello all, have a similar problem to OPs post hoping for some help.
I have a 2265 and was recapping and installing the Sparkos op AMP on the PE01 board now I have low to no signal in the left channel. I will hear a distorted version of the input coming from the left channel if I turn the volume past 50% but I hear nothing before that.
I have used the pre out and main in areas and it appears the problem is in the left channel pre out, if I cross right pre out to left in I get undistorted noise from the left channel.
I do not have and oscilloscope, but do have a volt meter. Unsure of the best way to figure out the issue.
I have a 2265 and was recapping and installing the Sparkos op AMP on the PE01 board now I have low to no signal in the left channel. I will hear a distorted version of the input coming from the left channel if I turn the volume past 50% but I hear nothing before that.
I have used the pre out and main in areas and it appears the problem is in the left channel pre out, if I cross right pre out to left in I get undistorted noise from the left channel.
I do not have and oscilloscope, but do have a volt meter. Unsure of the best way to figure out the issue.