Hi all Marantz friends! As you might have seen in my guessing game thread, I've been privileged to receive a 2600 to rebuild. It actually works pretty well so it won't be as hard as txturbo's resuscitation unit. Still, there aren't many 2600's and the unit's owner requested the thread so here we go.
With the covers off, the insides come into view and have a modest amount of dust and no sign of liquid spills. The slow start relay connector is loose from the chassis but the relay was firmly seated in it.
Some interesting feet are on the bottom cover.
At this point I fired it up to test it before doing any more disassembly and heard exactly nothing. Plugging in short jumper cables from Pre Out to Main In got me sound so the switching contacts are either really dirty or sprung. It sounds very good as is so no miraculous improvement will be had. The scope display isn't quite right but, hey, we have some action! This is with no signal.
This is with audio. The tuning settings try to work which is nice.
As noted in the other thread, some of the switch caps are different sized.
On the lower right side, the two screws that fasten the side rail to the sub-chassis are missing.
The scope tube is out.
A handy tip: when you remove knobs, place them in an ice cube tray to keep them safe and in the place they came off.

With the covers off, the insides come into view and have a modest amount of dust and no sign of liquid spills. The slow start relay connector is loose from the chassis but the relay was firmly seated in it.
Some interesting feet are on the bottom cover.
At this point I fired it up to test it before doing any more disassembly and heard exactly nothing. Plugging in short jumper cables from Pre Out to Main In got me sound so the switching contacts are either really dirty or sprung. It sounds very good as is so no miraculous improvement will be had. The scope display isn't quite right but, hey, we have some action! This is with no signal.
This is with audio. The tuning settings try to work which is nice.
As noted in the other thread, some of the switch caps are different sized.
On the lower right side, the two screws that fasten the side rail to the sub-chassis are missing.
The scope tube is out.
A handy tip: when you remove knobs, place them in an ice cube tray to keep them safe and in the place they came off.













