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Randy your attention to detail is really great! Curious... Why do you replace the "blob" diodes?
Marantz 2600 Refurb Thread
- Thread starter rBuckner
- Start date
Thanks for the tip! Message sent...
Randy your attention to detail is really great! Curious... Why do you replace the "blob" diodes?
Thanks! I haven't tried that because isopropyl works great for me. Denatured is flammable as well and since the garage sink is right next to the water heater methinks it a bad idea to use there.
You are awesome for scanning those manuals!!!
The blobbies are flaky and failure prone so it's a preemptive strike.
After too many things to do this week, I got back to it Saturday afternoon, then today Sunday afternoon. Here is the Saturday progress and a bit of Sunday's. I did quite a bit of the additional cleanup I mentioned. There seems to be more tenacious dirt every where I look in this beast. Here I also put the soft start/peak and power supply boards back in for a test run. All worked well although I don't have the front panel boards plugged in so there was no test of the peak LEDs. I don't want to even push the level up that high yet even with no speakers attached yet anyway.
The board below is the touch sensor board for the quartz lock tuning feature. It's at the front upper right corner and there's a grand sum of one cap to replace.
While that board is out I thought I'd pull the speaker switching board right under it to clean the pushbutton switches.
The board below is the touch sensor board for the quartz lock tuning feature. It's at the front upper right corner and there's a grand sum of one cap to replace.
While that board is out I thought I'd pull the speaker switching board right under it to clean the pushbutton switches.
Next up is the all-in-one AM and FM tuner circuitry board. It is wired in place and basically unserviceable as is. By that I mean the design of this model is such that you can't work on it very easily! First off is the board bracket/shield which sits behind the board.
I wanted to get the dial cord out of the way so first I crimped foil around the front end cord drum. I usually just tape the cord down but too often the tape lets go and the cord is all over the place. Then I popped the cord off of a couple of the pulleys and taped them back.
Then the scope amp board gets pulled out. One of the mounting screws was missing - seems to be a theme on this 2600.
There is some more room now and we can see the "rat's nest" style of wiring Marantz did in their rush to get this model to the market. Watts were more important than such trivial details! Also I found some more dirt, oh boy!
Next I unscrewed the PLL quartz lock board assembly, in it's shield.
Here is the "PC01" buffer amp board underneath after removing the bracket.
Flipping the PLL board box back over I see that there are two pieces of grounding braid soldered to the shield cover that will have to be released before the cover can come off.
There is another board at the top corner of the tuner board which has wires bundled in that I thought would be best unscrewed. It is the "PB00" noise amp board and has one electrolytic on it to be changed.
Now the PLL lock board can be seen. It will be interesting for member 'txturbo' who successfully got his apparent prototype one up and working. Two whole e-caps here to change. It will be easier to get to the back of the tuner board with the cover off.
I wanted to get the dial cord out of the way so first I crimped foil around the front end cord drum. I usually just tape the cord down but too often the tape lets go and the cord is all over the place. Then I popped the cord off of a couple of the pulleys and taped them back.
Then the scope amp board gets pulled out. One of the mounting screws was missing - seems to be a theme on this 2600.
There is some more room now and we can see the "rat's nest" style of wiring Marantz did in their rush to get this model to the market. Watts were more important than such trivial details! Also I found some more dirt, oh boy!
Next I unscrewed the PLL quartz lock board assembly, in it's shield.
Here is the "PC01" buffer amp board underneath after removing the bracket.
Flipping the PLL board box back over I see that there are two pieces of grounding braid soldered to the shield cover that will have to be released before the cover can come off.
There is another board at the top corner of the tuner board which has wires bundled in that I thought would be best unscrewed. It is the "PB00" noise amp board and has one electrolytic on it to be changed.
Now the PLL lock board can be seen. It will be interesting for member 'txturbo' who successfully got his apparent prototype one up and working. Two whole e-caps here to change. It will be easier to get to the back of the tuner board with the cover off.
KutzlerTrans
Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
That scope board looks like a good candidate for added heat sinks.
Would agree, just don't know if those TO220's have to carry the HV, and whether the sinks could be hot with voltage.
KutzlerTrans
Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
Good point! Will see what the Master says
Interesting to see the difference between the quartz lock boards. The wiring is different too... I bet the buffer amp board is as well.
Your restoration is looking good!
Do you have plans for the filter caps?
bktheking
Gitter Done!
See those plastic screws? They are insulated using a mica and those plastic screws, if one inserts metal screws it pins the collectors and the scope no longer functions.
I'll take a look, I think there may be a clearance issue as the tube shield sits above that board. As bk mentions they are "hot tabs" or the non-conductive hardware wouldn't be needed, and as well there looks to be a small "U" shaped heatsink in there that those plastic screws are going to. Those transistors may not get all that hot anyway. It is currently all apart still although the tuner board is now recapped and the pix are sitting in the camera to prove it!
Yes, the wiring is a mess and so makes the movement of parts difficult during rework. That's why I had to undo the cheesmo quality coax running from the tuner front end to the PLL board. The depth of the chassis makes things difficult too, it's a long way down in the valley to get the soldering iron in the change caps at the bottom.
I was looking into the filter caps and there aren't many options since they are 7200 or 7500uF at 105V rated dual units. The best option I've found so far are some 8200uF/200V 50mm diameter units that 4 will be required. I'd have to make a fiberglass plate to mount them to and curve it part way around the power transformer case. It would stick out about 3/8" farther than I'd like and may not fit. Incidentally, I looked up the shorty 8200uF/100V Panasonics I stacked in the restuffing of the 2500 I did a year plus ago and they are no longer available, not that they'd have worked in the 2600 anyway. Sucks!
skibjr
Super Member
It's a bit labor-intensive, but here's a possible option if you want to maintain the original internal layout. This is how I refreshed the filters in my last 2600 restoration:
http://www.vintagesilversmith.com/Marantz/2600/filters/2600_filters.html
I believe the Panasonic caps I used are also discontinued now, but I bought extras and have some left over if you need them.
http://www.vintagesilversmith.com/Marantz/2600/filters/2600_filters.html
I believe the Panasonic caps I used are also discontinued now, but I bought extras and have some left over if you need them.
skibjr
Super Member
I was wrong - as of today, Digikey still has them in stock: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=p11701-nd
KutzlerTrans
Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
Actually Mech986 was correcting me on that fact. In a kind sort of way.
I know you mentioned not needing them, but if you ever do need little heat sinks, Junk out a Television set. There are usually a few on them boards.
I know you mentioned not needing them, but if you ever do need little heat sinks, Junk out a Television set. There are usually a few on them boards.
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KutzlerTrans
Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
Your a Pro Dave. And your documentation is Superb!
Now that's just plain nice Dave and much appreciated! Thanks for the info. I may just do your method and I 've restuffed a couple of dual caps so the process, though a bit of work, is doable.