Marantz 2600 Refurb Thread

[rBuckner]

Time for more progress pix! Here is one side of the tuner big board, with the e-caps marked red for replacement. Well actually marked red so I won't miss replacing them!

I wasn't quite ready to start the recapping so cleaned up that nasty wiring are - dirtwise anyway.

Cleaned up the PLL board too.

Also cleaned up the FM buffer amp and red-marked the e-caps.

 

[rBuckner]

SHOOT!! Hit the POST button, it's right beside the add image one.
Here are some rust spots down at the bottom of the sea.
Both caps replaced!

FM Noise amp board recapped (one!)

Got into doing the tuner board last night and got it done.

Tonight got the buffer amp done.

Picked at the rust spots and polished them with Flitz polish. It won't get rid of the rust spot but will hopefully seal it for a good long time.

The bin of changed out parts so far and the worst swollen caps out of the tuner board, all 100uF at 10V caps. Also to the lower left are the tantalum caps which were replaced with the much better Nicicon KW series caps.

 

[KutzlerTrans]

Looking good so far, Teacher.
Muriatic acid will eat that rust off too. It will also burn your nose hairs off. Deadly stuff. I know you are way safer than i am.
I also like that Simonize stuff

Wow, that came out big..

 

[rBuckner]

Time to put some things back together. The covers are back on the PLL board and ground braids resoldered. The covers were polished up.

While the polish was out I did the other shields and brackets loose at this time.

The buffer and PLL boards screwed back down and rear bracket for the scope amp board reinstalled. I bundled the wire "mass" up in two spots and it looks a bit better.

The tuner board is now reattached to it's shield and reinstalled.

Next I'm going for the board just down from the scope and the first step is to get this little pot board out of the way.

I found that I had to unscrew the front chassis plate to get the clearance to get6 the board out.

After unplugging the connectors it almost comes out. There are two wires soldered to the top of one of the switches. Stupid.

Fisrt I unsoldered the switch top connection board so I could get DeOxit in those switches.

There is a board soldered to some of the pins and I bet it was a late add-on in the design. The 2500 model is just the same. The pot on it was for an adjustment to the scope display if I'm remembering right.

 

[rBuckner]

Next up was the cleaning of the boards. I have gently scratched the flux off for the most part.

Off to the garage stall right next to the stereo shop, the boards are soaking in cheap 70% alcohol in a plastic organizer type tray.

I let them soak during a lunch break, then scrubbed them with an old toothbrush, rinsed and blew them dry with compressed air.

I replaced the 3 e-caps and moved on to seeing how the next board down came out. The answer will be "not easy". I have the face plate pulled away a bit more after unbolting the two selector switches and jack nuts.

Same stupidity, most wires unplug, then there are wrapped on ones.

I brushed off as much dust and dirt as I could as the board wasn't coming out and recapped it. At least the new Nichicons are clean!

Now I need to put the latest stuff back in and pray that I can get all of the connectors back on correctly. Hopefully I have enough reference pictures!!

 

[KutzlerTrans]

I got wiped out just reading what your doing..

 

[txturbo]

Nice work!

What the heck was Marantz thinking when they wired that thing up! I have flashbacks just looking at it!

 

[rBuckner]

Amen to the above two comments!!

I did get everything back in and fired it up later in the evening Sunday. The AM and FM work! I need to test the phono in as the phono pre is on the selector board. Then I can get into the tone control board set, also a bit of a nightmare to get out and back in but if it's like the 2500 there aren't any band-aid wired in connections and so the boards will come completely out for a de-flux and rebuild.

 

[KutzlerTrans]

Cant you just cut and twist the wires like this??

 

[mcsew2k]

Or like this...

 

[txturbo]

Cant you just cut and twist the wires like this??

That looks like car stereo wiring when I was 16

(It may actually be better)

 

[bryans12v]

Cant you just cut and twist the wires like this??

Haha! Holy rats nest!

I don't know how you guys have the patience for those monsters. Like previously mentioned, I'm getting wiped out just keeping up with this thread. How many boards are in that thing!?!?

Stellar cleaning job as well. Just another one of the aspects of repair most would overlook or just not care enough about.

Looking grear so far!

 

[Denten]

They are fun behind the face, this reminds me of my 2385 adventure, I completely removed the front chassis, PITA but, it made my life a lot easer.


Nice work Randy! I hope your back is holding out.

 

[rBuckner]

The fine wiring examples my buddies showed above were done by Marantz 2600 wiring engineers!

I had that thought Tracy - to just remove the front plate. I admire your guts in doing so! My back has ached a couple of times so far but is holding up good enough.

 

[rBuckner]

Got on some tasks this Monday night after a boring day at work and have more to do but I took a snack break so I thought I'd post progress.

The start of removing the tone control board set involves loosening the face plate again (Mr. Denten probably had the right idea!). Removed the pot nuts and she popped right out the back.

After shooting some connector reference pix and unplugging it, the boards are out and on the bench. Nice and dirty!

After some alcohol scrubbing and compressed air work, they're much cleaner.


Also cleaned up was the scope amp board.

While the tone control boards are out, I'm going to replace the power resistors regardless of condition after seeing them cooked on the 2500 I did awhile back. The relay is back out and it's plastic base/connector popped out of the bracket.

Before going further, the rust spots were picked at a bit and hit with polish. Then the tagstrip was reattached and the electrolytic cap on it replaced.


Took a reference shot of the power resistors' wiring noting the 10 ohm is in front.

 

[rBuckner]

I polished up the power resistor/relay bracket last night.

Today while home at lunch I marked the spots for the resistor case holes and got it drilled out. Alas the 4-40 standoffs I have are all too large in girth. I meant to see if we had any at work but didn't get that done. If nothing else I can turn down part of the body to fit on the ones I have.

This evening I rebuilt the tone control boards, about a dozen electrolytics and a jillion old green film caps. The e-caps used were mostly Nichicon Muse audio series. The new film caps are mostly Wima polypropylenes and what values they don't offer are Kemet film caps that gotta be better than the greenie originals!

 

[KutzlerTrans]

Can you stack them with standoffs??, Or will they be too tall?.

 

[rBuckner]

Yes they can be stacked, there's abut 5-6" of space over them! That's the way I did then on the 2500 too.

 

[rBuckner]

It's back together and working fine. The speaker relay was replaced as well and there will be pictures Monday. My wife and I drove over to Winslow AZ this afternoon to have a nice weekend away. We saw the girl who drove the flatbed Ford already!!

 

[c.coyle]

It's back together and working fine. The speaker relay was replaced as well and there will be pictures Monday. My wife and I drove over to Winslow AZ this afternoon to have a nice weekend away. We saw the girl who drove the flatbed Ford already!!

She probably didn't slow down to take a look at you.