Marantz separates suggestions?

[aramirez626]

So here's what I see. It all looks original, including the clipping trimmers and the DC offset and bias pots.

The relay board has the original relay and all of the caps are probably original, these will need to be replaced, soon.

The biggest problem I see is that there is one blue wire lead and one red wire lead that a have been disconnected from the main capacitors. The ends of the leads have been taped over. This is not a good sign.

I will ask about that. Good catch!

 

[aramirez626]

Nope.

Okay, so my only power will be coming from the amp in an amp/preamp setup.

What about a receiver + amp setup? Will the power from the receiver add to the power output from the amp? so my 2275 receiver puts out 75 wpc, and the amp puts out 120 wpc. Do I now have a total of 195 wpc or does the amp replace the amp that is in the receiver?

 

[ChrisMarantz]

Okay, so my only power will be coming from the amp in an amp/preamp setup.

What about a receiver + amp setup? Will the power from the receiver add to the power output from the amp? so my 2275 receiver puts out 75 wpc, and the amp puts out 120 wpc. Do I now have a total of 195 wpc or does the amp replace the amp that is in the receiver?

Nope. When your using your 2275 as a preamp you are bypassing the built-in amplifiers. The signal from the tuner or another audio source goes through the preamp circuit and then sent to the amplifier.

 

[DaWoofer]

Tech

We got some good ones on AK. A good test is indispensable QUOTE=PB_Audio;6003474]Chris has listed the best choices. The difficult part is finding a good workable example of any of these great amps, at a fair price.
For my money, assuming you don't want to spend mega bucks for a Marantz 500 system (which will require a good tech), the Model 510/510M is a great way to go. Owners are not often willing to give up these great amps, so you've got to be patient. With its big meters, a functional 510M can get pretty expensive. ($900~1200 or more is not uncommon) But the Model 510 is the exact some amp, but without the meters. Personally,

I've got over $1800 invested in an aggressively refurbed 510M. At the end of the day, I'm much happier with my investment in 2 Model 510 amps that I bought for $500 and $600. You'll have to be patient though, and I'd happily pay $750 for a clean, functioning Model 510 today; and then plan on a restoration. This is a world class amp, only bested by the mighty 500.
Where my 510M sits in the livingroom, you can't even see the amp, let alone the meters. Yah, the meters are pretty for the first week or so, but...
The 300DC is a nice amp; but at that price it better have a recent well documented restoration, by a talented, well motivated tech. Otherwise I'd be shopping for a Model 250. They are much easier to find, but even with the greater numbers manufactured, owners are rarely quick to give them up.
To be at its best, a Model 250 will need a QUALITY Restoration. Same for any of the Marantz amps listed by Chris. Otherwise you have a wildcard. Regardless of which amp you eventually buy, find a good tech.
A good tech is a necessity to a Vintage Audio owner.:yes:[/QUOTE]

 

[aramirez626]

I will ask about that. Good catch!

Here is my question and the response:

Question:
Do you know why those blue and red wire leads are disconnected from the main capacitors, and the ends taped over?

Response:
No idea but they aren’t taped over, they have some kind of (looks original) black rubber ends of something on them. Obviously factory but no place to connect them.

 

[aramirez626]

So here's what I see. It all looks original, including the clipping trimmers and the DC offset and bias pots.

The relay board has the original relay and all of the caps are probably original, these will need to be replaced, soon.

The biggest problem I see is that there is one blue wire lead and one red wire lead that a have been disconnected from the main capacitors. The ends of the leads have been taped over. This is not a good sign.

I asked about that. Here is my question and the response

Here is my question and the response:

Question:
Do you know why those blue and red wire leads are disconnected from the main capacitors, and the ends taped over?

Response:
No idea but they aren’t taped over, they have some kind of (looks original) black rubber ends of something on them. Obviously factory but no place to connect them.

 

[ChrisMarantz]

Here is my question and the response:

Question:
Do you know why those blue and red wire leads are disconnected from the main capacitors, and the ends taped over?

Response:
No idea but they aren’t taped over, they have some kind of (looks original) black rubber ends of something on them. Obviously factory but no place to connect them.

Here's what it should look like. The picture is of a 1200B however in this respect the connections are the same.

As a follow up question, ask if they have listened to the amplifier and how does it sound. I will guess that they haven't and that "they don't have anyway to test it".

 

[aramirez626]

Here's what it should look like. The picture is of a 1200B however in this respect the connections are the same.

As a follow up question, ask if they have listened to the amplifier and how does it sound. I will guess that they haven't and that "they don't have anyway to test it".

So the red and blue wires should be connected with the other set of red and blue wires?

By the way, yesterday I asked that question and asked if any service had been done on it. Here was their response:

I DID TEST THE AMP IT WORKED GREAT. I DOES NOT APPEAR TO HAVE HAD ANY SERVICE DONE TO IT EXCEPT FOR THE SCREW REPLACEMENT IN THE BACK. I JUST TESTED THE ITEM AND PLAYED IT FOR SEVERAL HOURS NO ISSUES.

Based on this, it would be bold to lie knowing I can easily win an ebay case if it doesnt work.

 

[ChrisMarantz]

I suppose that there could be some explanation for the pictures. . . I just can't imagine what it would be. . .

 

[aramirez626]

I suppose that there could be some explanation for the pictures. . . I just can't imagine what it would be. . .

I couldnt find another 240 but here is a 250. I think the only difference is the display/dial. I see what you are saying. The other difference I see are there is a small red and small blue wire connected to the main capacitors.

 

[ChrisMarantz]

My guess, 1 dead amp board, someone did some hackery on the relay board and this poor amp is playing mono on both pairs of speaker terminals.

If it's true, or something even close to that, it just make you want cry :tears: the punch someone in the head :bash:

The seller may not even know, I've seen worse from sellers who I believe didn't know.

 

[jstang]

Yea those wires should not be hanging in the breeze...

 

[JT-3]

I would pass on this unit and keep looking.

 

[aramirez626]

Thanks everyone. I don't have a good feeling about this one. I truly appreciate everyone's input!

 

[PB_Audio]

If you like the 240, go for a 250. Many more were manufactured, IIRC, so you'll find more to select from. Expect a wide range in price. Again, patience is the key to buying Vintage Audio. ... a trait I was never able to master.
If you can find a clean 510, though, for a good price, it's the real deal.
The Model 250, though, is a very nice package, as long as you don't need to drive a difficult speaker load. Generally NOT a problem... they will happily give you 150W/Ch-RMS all day. They clip around 175~180W/Ch or so, when in top condition.
DO NOT spend much time around clipping though. I've heard there is a MOD to enhance the stability of the Model 250 at higher output; but unfortunately noone here seems to have any details, and, sadly, little interest, as far as I can tell.
With this kind of update, the Model 250 would be a KILLER AMP!
It's already my favorite in its class,
that is after the Model 500 and 510/510M, but that's a whole different class.
Jay

 

[ChrisMarantz]

I've heard there is a MOD to enhance the stability of the Model 250 at higher output; but unfortunately noone here seems to have any details, and, sadly, little interest, as far as I can tell.Jay

I have looked into this and as far as I can tell this is more of a myth than anything else. The only discussion regarding this on that other forum and when you dissect the thread most of it is meaningless.

Whatever the reasons were behind Marantz revising the amplifiers in 240/250/1200's we will never truly know. The revisions in the earliest models were likely due to problems that were encountered once these models were in the field.

 

[bktheking]

I run mine with no fear, it still works fine.

 

[jstang]

Its basically a rebuild of the power supply section to prevent the AMP stage from running out off steam.... before the POWER stage.

What you end up with is a MINI Model 500....kind of.... But the question is more of why bother... If you really want mega power just get a 500. In SS Marantz amps all "stages" in the "Unit" use a shared power supply, except the 500. The 510s don't separate supplies either.

The 500 and the tube amps are the only Marantz amps that have power supply separation for different stages in the amp. Some other very high end makes have this design as well.

The 500 has other design features to help with mega power beyond just the power supply separation. In the 500 its all about extreme power and controlling it properly. Power without control is oscillation... Or an ARC WELDER.....

jk

 

[jstang]

That is a thread on the mod... But the PICs are gone.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=385585

 

[aramirez626]

Are there other sites to look on for vintage units? I am just not seeing many amps on ebay or CL. Tons of receivers, but no amps such as the 250, 500, 510, etc.

Thanks!