MCS 3275 fuse
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brotherly
New Member
Hey guys! I hope someone pops in here that can help. So I got my cheap-o busted up MCS 3275. I thought it just needed a new fuse, but it looks like the cap on the fuse holder is totally missing from the back panel. The fuse holder itself isn't attached to the back of the panel anymore.
So here's what I'm wondering: is it worth trying to find a new cap for the old holder? Or is it easier just to replace the holder entirely?
I'm a huge novice at all this but am willing to learn/figure it out. Pictures attached. THanks!
So here's what I'm wondering: is it worth trying to find a new cap for the old holder? Or is it easier just to replace the holder entirely?
I'm a huge novice at all this but am willing to learn/figure it out. Pictures attached. THanks!
goodolpg
Just an old fart trying to help.
IF you know where both ends (wires) of the fuse holder go to....perhaps an inline automotive fuse holder will work.
They are cheap and readily available.
You might have to keep it inside the case or dangling out the back.
You might check ebay for an original style fuse hoilder, it probably doesn't have to be an OEM MCS fuse holder so there could be lots of options.
They are cheap and readily available.
You might have to keep it inside the case or dangling out the back.
You might check ebay for an original style fuse hoilder, it probably doesn't have to be an OEM MCS fuse holder so there could be lots of options.
slimecity
Super Member
Finding an inline fuse holder (as others mention here) should work OK then the fuse assembly can just be mounted inside the unit - finding another chassis-mount holder to put in the original place could be an option too.
I'd also be a bit careful here as there may be a reason why the fuse is like this - ie: there may be a fault that kept blowing fuses and the former owner gave up. I wouldn't be surprised if you put a new fuse in and it just blows again. Expect that could happen and let us know.
I'd also be a bit careful here as there may be a reason why the fuse is like this - ie: there may be a fault that kept blowing fuses and the former owner gave up. I wouldn't be surprised if you put a new fuse in and it just blows again. Expect that could happen and let us know.
brotherly
New Member
bump, still trying to figure out what to do with this. I'm a total novice so I'm sorry if this seems stupid/obvious! I ended up getting a panel mount fuse holder from radioshack plus fuses of the right value. The fuse holder has two metal tabs on it, but the fuse in the actual unit only has one metal tab left. Should the original have two? I assume there should be two connections.
Binkman
Lunatic Member
I'd think somebody snatched the cap and the fuse.. had another unit. lol.. been done. While in there I suggest a good cleaning up. fuzzy wuzzies can be quite small and problematic. I'd be checking solder joints including wire bundles as noted potential cause of missing fuse cap. ((Maybe it got rolled around under the chassis? after somebody dropped it? 
give it a good shake?))
give it a good shake?))
brotherly
New Member
I'd think somebody snatched the cap and the fuse.. had another unit. lol.. been done. While in there I suggest a good cleaning up. fuzzy wuzzies can be quite small and problematic. I'd be checking solder joints including wire bundles as noted potential cause of missing fuse cap. ((Maybe it got rolled around under the chassis? after somebody dropped it?
LOL you were right! The wire was shoved underneath some of the other components, I had to grab it out with some pliers.
Looking more closely at the old fuse holder, looks like it had been broken in the past. Cap looks snapped off and the second wire connection was broken off. The unit overall looks like its been through some rough days, so I'm guessing that at some point, the holder got broken and was never repaired. As far as I can tell, nothing else is broken, aside from the rust and the dirt. I don't have the right size fuse because I'm an idiot and got 5x20mm instead of the 1/4", but once the right size comes in, I'm going to fire it up. I attached a new fuse holder and soldered the wires in place, so we'll see what happens. Hoping for the best! Next task will be just general cleaning.
Binkman
Lunatic Member
I strongly suggest you do some testing after said fuse holder is back in... and build a DBT if you don't have one. Blown fuse is a major clue of things down line and putting in a new one might blow the other half a stereo amp stage. So power supply is important.
also said cleaning prior a bit if you can dust out etc. gives a better perspective of your work and if one wire was broken then who knows what big fingers were poking about. Gen. inspection so to speak a little cleaning and maybe some soldering off any old trees etc. solder joints age, too. they might be shiney but a cold solder joint is easy to miss.
hope it helps.. caution is always a priority versus redecking out drivers and outputs.
also said cleaning prior a bit if you can dust out etc. gives a better perspective of your work and if one wire was broken then who knows what big fingers were poking about. Gen. inspection so to speak a little cleaning and maybe some soldering off any old trees etc. solder joints age, too. they might be shiney but a cold solder joint is easy to miss.
hope it helps.. caution is always a priority versus redecking out drivers and outputs.
brotherly
New Member
Thanks binkman! So I am definitely going to clean out the dust and such before plugging it in. But stupid question..what's a DBT? I'm a total novice.
goodolpg
Just an old fart trying to help.
It's easy to buy the wrong size fuse the first time.
Now you know and you probably won't do it again.
I guess you did figure out where the fuse leads go?
OH----that model MCS is known to have problems with channels cutting out due to dirty controls...you may soon find yourself having to clean them or having someone do it for you.
brotherly
New Member
Yep I figured it out!
Got the new holder in there, and got the new fuse today.... and it works! Powered up, at least. I'm going to get the bottom panel off the deox the pots/switches before I try hooking it up to speakers and testing it. But it powered no, no shorts, seemed fine. I'm pretty impressed. Needs a lot of cleaning before it's in decent shape, but at least it powers up.
OH, anyone with one of these: there's a screw that goes into the big attenuator knob that's missing on my unit. Anyone know where I could get a replacement? Or at least what size I'd need? I think there's one in the tuner knob, but I'm not sure if they're the same.
