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Modified Forte 1 Upgrades-Bob Crites Autotransformers and Titanium Tweeters

Hi SET12,

Can you explain a bit more on why a new and better crossover using North Creek coils and good caps can increase transient response and "speed" sensation of a speaker with passive crossover such as the Forte? I want to learn and understand this a bit more. My impression of Forte-II is that they are a bit slow but perhaps this "slow" sensation has more to do with mid clarity and resolution instead of really how fast teh woofer moves, but i may be wrong.:scratch2::scratch2::scratch2:
 
Hi SET12,

Can you explain a bit more on why a new and better crossover using North Creek coils and good caps can increase transient response and "speed" sensation of a speaker with passive crossover such as the Forte? I want to learn and understand this a bit more. My impression of Forte-II is that they are a bit slow but perhaps this "slow" sensation has more to do with mid clarity and resolution instead of really how fast teh woofer moves, but i may be wrong.:scratch2::scratch2::scratch2:

Hi welborne,

As you know I haven't heard the Forte II's so its kind of hard for me to give you a perspective on them.

I went back to page 4 on this thread and re-read some of alteklipsch's comments on the Forte II's since he has side by side listening experience vs the Forte 1's

And it seems that he feels pretty strongly that the Forte II is a step back from the Forte 1 due to a bit hotter midrange or more forward sounding as he says.

And if this is the case it could at least in part explain some of your reaction!

Which would be similar to what I have experienced with the LaScala's maybe not to the severity as the LaScala's but a similar effect.

When the mids are a bit elevated it leaves the low end kind of lacking seemingly low on impact and bass extension and somewhat slow and even soft.

I also suspect the 15 in passive has an effect vs the 12 in that the Forte 1 has.

Some passives come across as a bit slow with out much tautness. this is not the case with the Forte 1

If your thinking of going long term and investing in the networks like I have I would audition both!

Lets face it if you bought a pair of Forte 1's and didn't like them, your very likely to get what you paid for them back!

As far as cost the Forte 1's will be a bit cheaper to modify using exotic parts if its your path as it has been mine with absolutely no regrets. Well I did buy parts that I tried and have to sell. No one likes buying parts and not liking them. But the parts were well worth the learning experience.

So back to your question whats going on with the inductors and caps?

First off Here's North Creeks reasoning and some testimonials!

http://www.northcreekmusic.com/COILS.html

In North Creeks words

"It is difficult to describe in writing the relative size of our 10 and 8 Gauge Music Coils. Suffice to say that upon first seeing inductors like these, the initial reaction is usually "Woah!" After using them for a while, even 14 gauge inductors, which are far superior to what one generally finds in commercial systems, begin to appear a little "wimpy".

"We can not recommend going to a larger gauge whenever possible strongly enough. When one considers that the average woofer inductor requires 10-20 times more wire than most speaker cables (usually well over 100'), it quickly becomes apparent that the quality and gauge of the inductor wire contributes far more to woofer and midrange performance than any other element in the system." -GES

An additional comment here

"The North Creek Inductors are wound under low tension as to eliminate internal fractures which are caused by high tension winding methods of many well known manufactures and perhaps does contribute to their smoothness that I hear when using them for my tweeters but again the "Q" factor is lower than the Solen that I compared it to. but never the less the Solen 14ga .16mh Litz wound inductor was just awful!"


I can a test to this, Everyone that I have had here has commented the great warmth and body of the sound from the Fortes.

So much so that SWL3600 something! I think! who has heard at least 3 Forte systems has told me that none of them sound like these.

He also said that the low end has such punch and extension that it sounds like there's a sub in the room!

I have a theory that the sheer size of the coils fields are contributing to the warmth, control, sound stage space and air. Which is why I use huge 28lb output transformers for the same effect! And I'm not the only one that believes in this! I know CAT uses 50lb outputs for 100 watts PP in one of their reference amplifiers.

Electronics contribute as well and when they don't have the capacity that these Fortes do you'll here it! Meaning that almost nothing gets past the width of the speakers! I am use to hearing information that is sometimes the width of the speakers to the left and right of them! I have them about 9ft apart And that's just plain huge!

I'll take a breather here! :yes:

I'll be back for some insight to caps!:scratch2:

SET12:smoke:
 
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Hi SET12,

Can you explain a bit more on why a new and better crossover using North Creek coils and good caps can increase transient response and "speed" sensation of a speaker with passive crossover such as the Forte? I want to learn and understand this a bit more. My impression of Forte-II is that they are a bit slow but perhaps this "slow" sensation has more to do with mid clarity and resolution instead of really how fast teh woofer moves, but i may be wrong.:scratch2::scratch2::scratch2:

Ok, Back to your question and thoughts!

One thing I'd like to point out is that electronics have a lot to do with the Forte's response!

And certainly there are commercially made ones that are up to the task but there are a lot that are not!

And every time that I have had what would be considered good quality electronics by many the Fortes have a habit of ruthlessly revealing their strengths and or their short comings. Some electronics sound fine but there are omissions more so than commissions to speak of!

So the distance that one goes with extreme mods like these in all likely hood should be based on is. Does one feel their electronics is up to the task?

If not and one is using an average Mid-Fi AV Receiver then the benefits have to be questioned as to their real value. Not that I'm saying don't do them but I think its important that the system has balanced capabilities!

When the parts count are low as in SET amps as mine and the signal paths short part changes become more audible.

Changing a coupling capacitor can be like changing to a different color suit or for that matter in your case changing cars with different amounts of HP.

The capacity of a capacitor to carry current or deliver it is largely dependent on its construction.

For example "film caps" vs "film and foil" I use the the film and foil variety because it is well know that they have a substantially higher capacity to carry current and of course their transient response is faster!

The degree of importance is largely dependent on a crossovers design.

I do use film caps in parallel with the woofer. Its a less critical area where if one wanted to get by with a decent quality electrolytic its in all likely hood fine! I haven't done a back to back comparison to see what I could hear though.

But when a cap is used directly in line with drivers it is especially audible!

So being fast and having high current capacity is especially important

I would be willing to bet that the stock caps were just the film variety and they were pennies to make!

Why am I using the Mundorf Silver/Oils for my tweeters?

One is I like the fact that they are near totally non-inductive meaning they are composed of two capacitors in series. This cancels the internal inductance of both yielding some very high speed capacity!

And when they say

"This product is an oil impregnated metallized paper dielectric capacitor, with the same series wiring as the M-CAP® Supreme capacitors. As the name indicates, high-purity silver is used for the capacitor coating, and the winding is impregnated with a special oil developed in an exhaustive series of experiments and listening tests. Both these features contribute to an even fuller and smoother tonal richness and diversity."

I can vouch for their engineering worth every penny and great overall IMO.

As for the Duelund's they are the heart of my Fortes as the majority of the music passes through these

Duelund Caps.jpg

Here's the best description I have found.

The Duelund Coherent Audio Virtual Stack Foil Capacitor

"This new capacitor is the realization of a lifelong ambition. It consists either of pure aluminum foil, pure copper foil or pure silver foil and high-density paper, soaked in pure mineral wax, treated with special lacquers made from natural materials and wrapped in natural paper.

Unlike all other audio capacitors available no form of unnatural sound degrading materials are used. No metallization and plastics such as polypropylene are employed in the construction of these capacitors as the ensuing negative influence on the signal is unacceptable.

The stack-foil design ensures very low inductance, forming a solid block resulting in a form free of internal resonances. While the technical background may sound humdrum, the sonic splendor these capacitors make possible is anything but. The capacitors are made by hand in order to ensure the strictest tolerances possible."

:scratch2:With out a doubt one of the very best capacitors I have ever heard they are so smooth and yet highly detailed it can and does flush out texture that I have never heard from the Forte I also believe with the conjunction of Bob Crites larger and better constructed Autotransformers yielding greater bandwidth in the process the two go hand and hand to bring the mid-range to a level that is as eye opening as the the new Klipsch Palladium IMO.

So the Duelund caps are really quite astonishing IMO!

SET12 :smoke:
 
Set12,

when you say "film and foil" caps, what exactly do you mean? as vs "film only" cap

sorry for my ignorance.

welborne
 
Set12,

when you say "film and foil" caps, what exactly do you mean? as vs "film only" cap

sorry for my ignorance.

welborne

Not a problem Welborne, That's the fun of this hobby sharing information :yes:

I found North Creek has a good Capacitor FAQ's for a start!

http://www.northcreekmusic.com/CapacitorFAQ.html

:scratch2: Its only been the last 15 yrs or so that I have learned and appreciated the various flavors or sonic signatures of the many high quality capacitors offered today!

Do visit http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

Its a good subjective place to start :yes:

Here's the other site I have used http://www.tempoelectric.com/caps.htm

Both of these sites are about purely subjective evaluations and as I like to say "nothing is written in stone!"

But basically when your after speed, transparency, body or a fullness to the sound with a high degree of slam factor one usually uses the film and foil variety. :yes:

Sometimes its not necessarily practical do to the size and cost of the of some types of caps.

There are many types of materials used and each has their applications that they excel at.

The nice thing about the Fortes network design is their small values allowing one to use some of the worlds more exotic designs such as the Duelunds and Mundorf's at a lower cost vs a network that is more complicated and or one that uses much higher values.

SET12 :smoke:
 
Yeah, I thought that sounded familiar.

Its so amazing how each and every component makes a difference. I ended up w/ them only 'cause my local guy didn't have the air cores and I new as good as the erse's are the air cores would have been better.

Since the Chorus II's were going into a tertiary system I figured what the heck and like you mention WAY better than stock. maybe next time I mail order some stuff I'll add a few air cores.


btw- how much run in time did you give your litz inductors? I've read that it can take some time.

Too close to another magnetic field in the x-o?

I sometimes use a gauss meter to see whats going on.

Amazing?:yes: I have been down right shocked! At just what can be done!
Especially with the quality of the components that I'm using.

As for the Litz I just couldn't stand how they sounded in contrast to my North Creek inductors. It was punishing to say the least!

The Litzs were placed in the same location as my North Creeks.

What I gathered from BEC was that if they are close to metal the Inductance would go up. I believe that would make the sound brighter!

The nearest metal other than the LF inductor would be my terminal blocks and they are gold over brass also my North Creek is considerably larger in the same location and it is just down right so smooth.

So tell me how did you use the gauss meter to help your project?

SET12
 
Just installed the Titanium Tweeters in my KG4's and will put them in the Forte II's over the weekend. It only takes about 5 minutes per speaker. Wish all upgrades were this ez.
 
Duelund resistors for tweeters

Hi all,

I just got off the phone with Parts Connextion and I have decided to try out the Duelund resistors I am currently using North Creeks suggested Ohmites

Here is some of North Creeks reasoning:

http://www.northcreekmusic.com/OHMITE.html

The North Creeks are about $4 each while the Duelunds are $16

I found the sound of the tweeter inductor to have an amazing effect on the tweeters sound quality and it is not in line but in parallel with a cap and the tweeter.

The job of the resistor is to help in keeping the tweeters rising impedance down. I once had a demonstration of what its like not to control this and it was very audible the difference being smooth vs harsh response.


Duelund resistors Designed by DUELUND Coherent Audio of Denmark for Loudspeaker Cross-Overs these 10 to 15 watt non-inductive (they are purely resistive, since they are a solid element and have no electrical characteristics of a coil) resistors utilizing graphite as the resistive element, and pure silver wire for the lead out material. A phenolic cylinder is used to protect the resitive element itself.

The special characteristic about this resistor is that it displays a negative temperature coefficient. For example, when the voice coil of a speaker heats up, it's impedance rises. The DUELUND Graphite Resistor counteracts this by means of a decreasing impedance. The results are greatly improved dynamics from the driver.

Duelund Graphite Resistors are used by a growing number of high-end speaker manufacturers...such as Gryphon Audio Design and Peak Consult. Peak Consult was awarded Joint Loudspeaker of the Year 2006 in Stereophile magazine.

It should be interesting!

SET12 :smoke:
 
I had the gauss meter in my tool box already so I used it to see what kind of EMF was being generated by various inductors and autoformers.

If I remember correctly the autoformer in my chorus II's didnt do all that much emf wise so I was not too worried about placing things close if need be. The 3.5 mH was a bit "dirty" so I tried giving it more space in the x/o.

Dont know if it helps in minimizing the interaction between magnetic fields but it cant hurt.
 
I am really enjoying and learning from this thread guys. Thanks and keep it going.

I am enjoying my Chorus IIs and plan on a similar rebuild as funds permit. Currently, I am almost finished restoring an Eico HF-86 to go with them. I need to get a camera. It is a total rebuild with premium caps and resistors, new wire, powder coat finish, etc. I plan on variacing it this weekend at a friends shop. It's my first tube amp and I am proud of it. I've spent a year accumulating the parts, refinishing etc.

I will pair it with a Ming Da preamp that I bought from Response Audio some time ago. The ming Da is a simple pre with a classic design and it's loaded with V-caps. It's on the warm side of transparant. I also have an ARC sp-8.

I'm very excited about the Chorus II's. I plan to go all out (within budget) on source as well.
 
I am really enjoying and learning from this thread guys. Thanks and keep it going.

I am enjoying my Chorus IIs and plan on a similar rebuild as funds permit. Currently, I am almost finished restoring an Eico HF-86 to go with them. I need to get a camera. It is a total rebuild with premium caps and resistors, new wire, powder coat finish, etc. I plan on variacing it this weekend at a friends shop. It's my first tube amp and I am proud of it. I've spent a year accumulating the parts, refinishing etc.

I will pair it with a Ming Da preamp that I bought from Response Audio some time ago. The ming Da is a simple pre with a classic design and it's loaded with V-caps. It's on the warm side of transparant. I also have an ARC sp-8.

I'm very excited about the Chorus II's. I plan to go all out (within budget) on source as well.

Thanks!

Welcome Aboard! Glad to hear your having as much fun as I am! Your amp sounds great! I like a lot of the Ming Stuff!:D

http://www.pacificvalve.us/BasicAmps.html

I have heard great things about the V-caps!

Got a lot of things going on myself!

Like Burson Discrete Op Amp's for my CDP

http://www.partsconnexion.com/Index/burson.php

Congrats on your amp:thmbsp:

SET12
 
Crossover Parts List

At request of alteklipsch for a parts list I will be putting one together it was some yrs ago so I might not remember all my sources but I'll try and give some alternative if I don't! All questions are welcome!

This will take a little time with more pictures to come

sd530038ez8.jpg


Black plastic boxes

http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg2XX.htm

My out side dimensions W H L

Auto transformer box 3 1/8" 2 5/16" 4 3/4"

Speaker terminal Box 2 1/2" 1 1/2" 4 3/4"
For woofer, mid,
tweeters

Amp connection box 2 1/4" 1 1/2" 3 3/4"


5 way binding posts and mounting hardware. While these are not terribly cheap they are very rugged! I tried using Radio Shack posts only to have their pressed metal inserts turn internally which will be replaced son with these which I'm very pleased with!

And since I have so many binding post I have acquired Audio Quests 5 way binding post tool that gets connections tight while making it easy to loosen!

pomona5018hexbindingposan9.jpg
pomonamountingbasedoublcs2.jpg





At Pomona's Web site you can scroll down to the model 5018 if you click on stock availability they will list sites that directly link you companies selling them with a price. A nice site and feature IMO.

http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/index.php?i=prodsub&parent=HWARE&cat=BCNPOSTS&getDetails=

Wood Base H D W
1 7/8" 12" 16 1/16

The gold terminal blocks are automotive type used for heavy wire I think I got them at Radio Shack but I can't find them on their website.

They have Allen head screws and have 4 connections at each end they also
have a plastic sleeve over them with mounting holes this also insulates them as they were intended for auto use.

I also worked out some pricing to show why the Forte is such a bargain in going all out with vs doing the same type of quality components with the Klipsch RF 7

The Duelund Resistors are here and I'm itching to hear them!:yes:

Stay tuned:thmbsp:

SET12 :smoke:
 
Duelund Resistors For the Tweeters

Well People,

WOW! is how significant these things are!

Bobs tweeter has never sounded better :ntwrthy::ntwrthy::ntwrthy:

After experiencing the Solen Litz Inductors and going back to the North Creeks I thought if I can hear the Solens which are in Parallel with the tweeters I may be able to hear the Duelund resistors as well!

And that's exactly the case!

They are by far and above one of the finest resistors I have ever heard.

They were a mere $32.

These are not a light difference.

The top end and mid-range of the Forte now is easily the peer in many respects to the Palladium IMO.

There is so much ease that the Ohmite resistors with their 50 parts/million positive(meaning that as the resistor heats its resistance goes up) temperature coefficient vs the stock ceramic or sand cast resistor with its 400 parts/million

The Duelunds have a negative temperature coefficient!

And after a brief listen before I swapped them out I swear I could feel warmth from the first one! The Ohmite's literally sound very harsh! And I don't mean that lightly!!!

Its as though I am also hearing the Mundorfs at what they really are capable of! Nothing short of stunning!

This combination in the crossover allows me to listen at volumes never before possible!

Also its as though the Ohmite's were very forward in contrast to the Duelund's the layering and the resolve at the back part of the stage is simply phenomenal!

With this degree of smoothness I should try the Solen's again as one just never knows!

I only had time with The Sound Track Master and Commander and a very well recorded Jazz CD Neighborhood for its delicate cymbals.

I was able to listen to Master and Commander to very close to the volume limits of my SET Mono Blocks and that's incredible!

Unbelievable!

SET12 :smoke:
 
X-Over Parts

At request of alteklipsch for a parts list I will be putting one together it was some yrs ago so I might not remember all my sources but I'll try and give some alternative if I don't! All questions are welcome!

This will take a little time with more pictures to come

sd530038ez8.jpg


Black plastic boxes

http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg2XX.htm

My out side dimensions W H L

Auto transformer box 3 1/8" 2 5/16" 4 3/4"

Speaker terminal Box 2 1/2" 1 1/2" 4 3/4"
For woofer, mid,
tweeters

Amp connection box 2 1/4" 1 1/2" 3 3/4"


5 way binding posts and mounting hardware. While these are not terribly cheap they are very rugged! I tried using Radio Shack posts only to have their pressed metal inserts turn internally which will be replaced son with these which I'm very pleased with!

And since I have so many binding post I have acquired Audio Quests 5 way binding post tool that gets connections tight while making it easy to loosen!

pomona5018hexbindingposan9.jpg
pomonamountingbasedoublcs2.jpg





At Pomona's Web site you can scroll down to the model 5018 if you click on stock availability they will list sites that directly link you companies selling them with a price. A nice site and feature IMO.

Wood Base H D W
1 7/8" 12" 16 1/16

The gold terminal blocks are automotive type used for heavy wire I think I got them at Radio Shack but I can't find them on their website.

They have Allen head screws and have 4 connections at each end they also
have a plastic sleeve over them with mounting holes this also insulates them as they were intended for auto use.

I also worked out some pricing to show why the Forte is such a bargain in going all out with vs doing the same type of quality components with the Klipsch RF 7

The Duelund Resistors are here and I'm itching to hear them!:yes:

Stay tuned:thmbsp:

SET12 :smoke:

SET12,
Thanks for the info on the parts, I appreciate it very much. I am going to start gathering parts for the project and I hope to have them done by about turkey day or so.
I plan to basically copy what you have done as I am not feeling very creative right now. Did I overlook how you brought the cables from the crossover into the cabinet?
 
wow, seems really unbeleivable!!!:banana::banana:

Thanks for the update.

Thank you for posting!

Yes, Its almost like its to good to be true! But I spent 5 hrs yesterday with my amps at full throttle with no listening fatigue!

I'd pay a $100 a piece for these if I had to! Its no wonder why so many High-End companies are using the Duelund Products I can tell you I'm a convert no doubt including their caps Duelund passed away not to long ago but he devoted his life to sound and his work shows it IMO

Duelund Resistors.gif




SET12,
Thanks for the info on the parts, I appreciate it very much. I am going to start gathering parts for the project and I hope to have them done by about turkey day or so.
I plan to basically copy what you have done as I am not feeling very creative right now. Did I overlook how you brought the cables from the crossover into the cabinet?

SD530026.JPG

I'll show some more pictures of the back of the speaker and the back of the network as well basically there are 3 sets of binding posts on the speaker to connect to the 3 sets on the crossover each driver has a direct connection to its crossover outputs also there is the amplifier input of course. The nice thing about this set up is that its ready to Tri-Amp if I want to. Keep an eye out as I will post more on this same page that I started the list on.

I also use Audio Quest Midnight for the woofer, Audio Quest Indigo for the mids and Indigo for the tweeter. I use velcro to bundle the three together which ends up being as big as a vacuum cleaner hose! But its worth it!
I'm using Audio Quest Clear for the Amps to the networks. I bought all the wire used for about $150.

If you look around at your nearest audio boutiques they usually have a lot of wire laying around and often I find I can purchase it for pennies on the dollar.

I'm not nuts in spending a lot on wire when I can find very good used stuff but I do recognized what wire can do even good cheap interconnects like my AR's that are used from my CDP to my amps at $30 it embarrasses many higher $500 cables. Also I used Radio shack gold spade crimp connectors and crimped all my own ends.

Was it worth it? I think so! a real pain but worth it!


The speaker is wired internally with the Audio Quest as well I also have the Squawker and tweeter rapped with foam with Velcro wrapped to hold the foam in place.

I once heard some FMS interconnect that sells for $1200 1 meter! The designer of FMS was one of the founders of Audio Quest that cable was one of the most unbelievable cables that I ever heard! My friend bought it after I confirmed what he was hearing cause he could hardly believe it!

I'll admit differences in wire can be subtle but when you add up all the subtleties they can add up.


I think your going to thoroughly enjoy what your going to do and you'll have the the opportunity to change sound to your taste just like one chages electronics only you'll be able to hone in on each of the three frequency ranges! And that's real flexibility IMO.

Now for more music!:yes:

Cheers

SET12
 
Hi All, I fell ill for a few days but I'm back up and running!

What I noticed in this thread is I didn't have any contrasting pictures of the stock network vs my new network replacement.

sd530025vq8.jpg


What you don't see is the Duelund resistor and cap but you do get the contrast to the stock network.

For those contemplating a similar project here is a picture contrasting a CD disc to a group of 1.0 mH North Creek Air Inductor Coils at the following AWG's 14, 12, 10. and 8AWG

1mhcoilsnz5.jpg



The photo of my network 3 mH Inductor is deceiving as it is 3 times the volume of the 1 mH Inductor contrasting the CD.

Here is North Creeks version of a B&W 801 and 802 crossover which is not a redesign but mearly a parts swap like mine.

801netjm4.jpg


Their approach is permanent with a cover vs the approach I have taken allowing me to audition any component that may come along such as the wonderful Duelund parts that I'm using now!

801boxmh7.jpg


The prices here are $2100 per pair for the 601's

And $2250 per pair for the 802's

To do mine now as they are might approach some $1400 per pair and while the B&W's are using 12 and 10 AWG coils I am using their 8 AWG's for mine.

You can imagine my jaw when I first saw these several yrs back!:scratch2:

Those wishing more imfo on the B&W results may find them here

http://www.northcreekmusic.com/801web.html

SET12:smoke:
 
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