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My new Pioneer CT-F1000

shacky

Addicted Member
Just picked this up on local CL. Play and Rec work. FF and Rev don't. I ordered WJOE's kit with new FF pulley. Also expect to have the clutch problem talked about here by Mark and Rich.

I am having some trouble with Play. Sometimes I insert a cassette and it starts capstans and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't I can't play or rec.

Probably a micro switch that's dirty? Sounds fantastic :banana:

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hate to do duplicates - I asked this in General Discussion area. But in case someone sees it here first - how do you get these plastic rings off?

Pulling them they don't budge and seem like they will break.

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hate to do duplicates - I asked this in General Discussion area. But in case someone sees it here first - how do you get these plastic rings off?

Pulling them they don't budge and seem like they will break.

This is the right place for the post. The plastic rings stay on. Wait for the belt kit for full breakdown instructions with pictures. In the meantime, get an exacto knife with a new blade. You want to cut the old idler belts off, rather than try and roll them off. There are two. The switches can be bypassed to determine if there are issues there. But that comes after the new belt kit, which solves most issues. I would not assume there is a clutch issue. If there is, you can buy a CT-F8282 for cheap, same clutch. Or send it to MTF, if that is still an option. I have the part numbers somewhere if you need new switches, a few bucks from mouser. This is my favorite cassette deck ever. I think it was Pioneer's best. Certainly the easiest to work on of the TOTL Pioneer decks.

A few things to keep in mind. The instructions mention these, but they should be stressed:
1. keep track of the orientation of the bushings, washers, and static discharge spring when removing the 2 flywheels. The ones that typically get lost are the white nylon washers that are visible from the front of the transport.

2. Reinstalling the flywheels for the first time is a little confusing. Make a mental note of their orientation. i.e. which one goes on top, and which one goes left vs. right.

3. A spring holds each of the idler assemblies. Mark which slot the spring was in with a sharpie. It looks like it will be easy to see for reassembly, but it isn't.

4. When removing the c-clips with a jewlers screwdriver, hold your hand over it. It will want to escape and never be found again.

Other than that, it's pretty easy, especially with wjoe's instructions. Just have enough time set aside to take your time and keep track of everything.
 
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a must have deck for every analog fan .......take good care of it , there aren't many in that condition .....cheers!
 
Got the faceplate off :tresbon:

WJOE's instructions are excellent :thmbsp:

Looks like I didn't do a great job cleaning these heads:

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Houston we have a problem!

I got the mechanism out and started taking it apart following WJOE's instructions. I looked carefully as I removed the flywheels. There was only one black washer and no nylon washers :yikes:

Seller told me he had belts change by local tech years ago. I think he messed up with these washers.

I have one black one to try and find a match. But no nylon washers. Anybody know where I could get 2 :scratch2:
 
A few things to keep in mind. The instructions mention these, but they should be stressed:
1. keep track of the orientation of the bushings, washers, and static discharge spring when removing the 2 flywheels. The ones that typically get lost are the white nylon washers that are visible from the front of the transport.

Looks like whoever worked on this before already lost them. I couldn't figure out where they went - but check out image above before I disassembled mech. No white washers on front of capstans :tears:

Here's a little better shot from before disassembly:

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Houston we have a problem!

I got the mechanism out and started taking it apart following WJOE's instructions. I looked carefully as I removed the flywheels. There was only one black washer and no nylon washers :yikes:

Seller told me he had belts change by local tech years ago. I think he messed up with these washers.

I have one black one to try and find a match. But no nylon washers. Anybody know where I could get 2 :scratch2:

Try McMaster, they have a lot of washers, if that doesn't work try small parts inc. You probably need to get someone to measure their washers if you don't have the originals. Sometimes the service manual will list the ID OD and thickness.

Good luck
Glenn
 
Finally found them on schematic. They are RBF-037 Oil stopper washers. No demensions given.

The inside diameter of the other washer is 3.2 mm. Now I need OD and Thickness :scratch2:
 
Sort of envious. I had s 900 about 30 yrs ago
. Was never quite right
Had it serviced and it was worse whem i got it back. Gave it up. Hope you have better luck. I always thought they were cool like the poor man's studer revox or nachamichis of the day
 
Thanks but not quite pristine. Top edge of faceplate scratched. And top of casing. Not sure how to sand repaint.

For now I just hope I can put everything back together and working. It's going to be a few weeks to have clutch rebuilt (it does feel sticky) and get those oil stoppers from PartSimple.
 
How the heck do you Deoxit/Faderlube these pots? Looks like there might be an opening in the back one (arrow) but I do not see an opening for one towards the front:

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