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My new Pioneer CT-F1000

Lost my first e-clip :tears: One of the 2 mm clips. Hoping my hardware store has them :worried:
 
Finally had time this weekend to get back to the CT-F1000. Almost finished :thmbsp:

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Houston - we have a problem.

Put the mechanism back in place, cleaned all switches and pots with Deoxit/Fader Lube, cleaned fuses and holders. Was feeling very good.

Plugged her in - released micro switch - it started the capstan motor for about 10 seconds - then nothing. Also seemed like FF was going - though I may have hit that button.

It blew the 3.15A fuse - which I assume is for the motor. Damn it. I hope I didn't screw anything up taking motor apart.

Should I just try another fuse?
 
If it were the motor, the motor fuse would have blown first.

Replace fuse. With switch open see that you have 13V on one side. Then close sw and see what happens to 13v.
 

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I'm not that good at reading schematics. Can I take a picture of the board and we can go from there?

Also - that micros switch is closed until tape is in place. It's the one of right - closed in this picture. Pushing tape in opens it.

Also - all I could find at store today was 3A fuse at auto store. It says it's good "up to 250V". Will this be OK to use?

Thanks!

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Put the 3A fuse in. Sets up tape correctly. Play works fine. Even Rewind works fine.

As soon as I hit FF, there is silence then - pop goes the 3A fuse.
 
I seem to recall a lost e-clip. Maybe you just found it. You just need to find out where you found it. Barring that, you could have a broken wire seeking a new connection, a pinched wire, a component that got twisted, bent over or broken, etc. In any case, schematic reading and interpretation is required.

Good luck,
Rich P
 
pustelniakr said:
I seem to recall a lost e-clip. Maybe you just found it. You just need to find out where you found it.
Good luck,
Rich P
Click to expand...

I was just thinking same. I actually lost a second one and found the first while looking for the second - but never found the second and it's tiny.

And as far as schematic reading - I am very weak at that.

I would like to take out the control assembly - I was wondering if the e-clip snuck behind it :scratch2:
 
Got the Control Assembly out. Was sure I'd find an e-clip stuck behind there but unfortunately not :no:

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While I had the mechanism out again I thought let me try turning unit on and pressing FF without the mechanism connected. Thinking this will tell me if problem is on a board (like a short).

AOK. Of course since the counter isn't connected it pops back off but no fuse blowing.

So I'm thinking it has to be something I did on the mechanism. And if it was the FF motor why would it work in reverse? Has to be something specific to FF :scratch2:
 
Took mechanism apart to make sure nothing was physically binding. I saw this transistor on Control Assembly board that looked bent but appears to be OK as far as leads.

Tomorrow I'll reassemble and disconnect one of the FF motor leads - MTF suggestion - and see what happens.

I've been looking all night and can't find any pinched wires or bent components that would be the cause. I also used air can to spray all around the boards in case that e-clip was hiding.

Ideas welcomed :scratch2:

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No - before I started repairs both FF and Rew were not working. But it sounded like the FF/Rew motor was running when they were engaged.

No blowing fuses.
 
Does it blow a fuse without a cassette insterted? (Holding the sensor button and pressing FF?)There is a lot of friction involved in getting a tape deck to work. I am almost wondering if there is too much friction on the idler now with the new pulley and tire. You may want to move the spring on the idler to the next notch and see if that helps.
 
Most likely you inadvertently did something to the deck during repair that is causing the fuse-blowing.

If not, and it's a new defect, then test those diodes shown in the previous post with "diode test mode" on your meter. If good, then test all other diodes on the transport control board. You usually don't need to remove them to test. You are likely looking for shorted diodes.

You can also look for shorted caps and shorted transistors with 'diode test mode'. No need to remove them (if you are just looking for short-circuits).
 
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Thank you all for your help. I'm exhausted tonight and don't want to dive into this without patience.

I'm a novice an keep thinking I must have done something in the re-belting process. I certainly shook things up enough looking for lost e-clips :yes:

What gets me is it works in reverse. So the brake solenoid and motor work in that mode. So it's got to be a component specific to FF or a short in that switch or stream...

Damn it. I'm thinking of Deep Throat - I'm 3 inches from heaven :sigh:
 
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