My Yamaha CA-1000 Restoration / Modifications Thread
- Thread starter Parabellum27
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Parabellum27
Active Member
I believe it is more pronounced on the left channel. I came to wonder if it is the speakers that are acting up. 3 years ago I sent them to Totem to change all 4 woofers (isobaric configuration) and do some cleaning inside (I need to check the receipt to know exactly what has been done). Ever since they came back I found them to be edgy at times on some material. I have to say that during the months my speakers were in repairs I sold my C46 pre-amp so when they came back I no longer had the same setup to compare apples to apples. I did use the pre-amp of my MCD-301 back then and not long after (mid-2016), I packed everything up to redo all the renovations in the basement. And from October last year, I started to rebuild a hi-fi setup by first using my speakers and purchasing the CA-1000. I am considering sending them back to Totem for a full inspection to eliminate the possibility that they may be wrong (or not).
Swap the speakers around and see it moves also. Could pick up another pair of speakers (cheap) for testing or borrow some even.
A transistor going south will normally have a hiss or make a bacon frying sound from time to time. The sound your describing could be a bad connection loose wire.
A transistor going south will normally have a hiss or make a bacon frying sound from time to time. The sound your describing could be a bad connection loose wire.
Parabellum27
Active Member
That bacon frying sound you are describing is something I noticed as well, just didn't know how to describe it in words. At first I was thinking that it could be some jitter from the USB connection but I know I have good cable and components so I was looking more into the amplifier as the source of the problem. If I had known that this could cause some problem later, I would have asked to replace all the transistors while the amplifier was under restoration. Now that I think about it, it all seems to make sense to replace them all.
I have another pair of speaker (Klipsch KG4) laying around so I will try them just for comparison sake but according to your explanation it seems the transistors are at fault. Thanks for pointing that out.
Parabellum27
Active Member
Just wondering, what kind of transistor do you refer to? If you are talking about the output transistors, what replacement would be suitable? In this video at 2:10, he is talking about OSME or something like that..
Onsemi..outputs
Separate the pre-amp from the power amp with the coupler switch. Do you still hear the sizzle or whatever noise?
Parabellum27
Active Member
Thanks!
Parabellum27
Active Member
The more I look at it, the more I realize that the restoration that was performed on my amplifier seems more of a serviced/recapped than the full restoration I had in mind when I had the work performed. Nothing wrong with that as I am still amazed at how good this amplifier sounds. But on the other, I noticed some occasional "friend bacon" noise when I am close to the speakers and the strangest thing is particularly that on female vocals (or when the sound is "full") there is that "SSHHHH" sound that is added like a layer onto the music. Or, if you wish, this sound is like separated from the vocals. It seems to happen on a certain range of frequencies. It is a bit disturbing and I don't know if this is normal with this amp or if a full restoration could fix that.
Knowing this, I think I may be willing to go "phase 2" with this amplifier. I stumbled accross a site called "crossed path vintage" where a CA-1000 was fully restored on their portfolio. They made a complete list of all the work they performed and I would like to use this as a guide to establish the work scope. I would appreciate if you could give your input based on your experience if I should add/remove some parts of the scope.
Note: I contacted them with no luck. Their website doesn't seem to have been updated since 2016...
1- Full Replacement of ALL the electrolytic capacitors throughout the unit. 44+ capacitors.
Okay, my unit has been recapped but I may have to do a caps count and show actual pictures of the items replaced.
2- Full Replacement of ALL the tantalum capacitors throughout the unit. 30+ capacitors.
3- Full Replacement of ALL the outhouse shaped transistors (2SC458, 2SC734, 2SC1124, 2SC1166, 2SC1345, 2SA561, 2SA661, 2SA841) and any others known to get noisy or fail over time. Over 45+ transistors.
Edit:
3.1- Full replacement of all small signal transistors.
4- Replacement of ALL the Main Output Transistors with high-quality ONSemi MJ Series and application of new thermal grease.
5- Replacement of ALL the Variable Resistors to Bourns Multi-turn Trimmer Potentiometers to allow for precise fine tuning and calibration.
6- Replacement of the Main Power Supply Protection Relay.
7- Replacement of the 4 critical Power Supply Ceramic Disc Capacitors.
8- Replacement ALL 8 Protection Fuses.
No issue here. I already changed the main fuse with a Synergistic Quantum Blue fuse, with great success. It is planned that all fuses will be replaced with Blue over time.
9- Full Replacement of all of the Fusible Resistors throughout the unit. 27+ fusible resistors.
10- Replacement of Critical Diodes (both switching and zener) throughout in the amplifier and function boards.
11- Replacement of Both Class A/AB Microswitches with high amperage units that should last forever. The originals get severely tarnished leading to eventual failure and this is a must to upgrade these for long-term reliability.
12- Full disassembly of the power switch and proper cleaning to restore the original luster of the contacts and provide trouble free service.
13- Replacement of the power on indicator light with a color appropriate Warm White LED assembly that provides a bright red power indicator light due to original red filter lens.
The main red light has been changed for a new one since it was burnt out. I don't plan to change it since I am satisfied with the end result.
14- Thoroughly clean all controls, lubricate and properly preserve for long-term protection from noise and static.
15- Precisely complete all of the Service Manual calibrations to be spot on in Both Class A Mode and Class AB Normal Mode.
16- Professional cleaning, detailing and polishing inside and out…
17- Thoroughly clean inside and out as well. Professionally cleaning and properly lubrication of internal controls to ensure excellent long-term performance
18- Professional cleaning of all pots and lubrication as well
19- Verification of all capacitors, transistors and resistors to be in spec (that remain original) and replacement of all the electrolytic and tantalum capacitors and most all of the transistors as stated above.
20- Replacement of the transistors and resistors as needed, replacing any and all stressed parts or parts that are known to problematic over time (like outhouse shaped transistors and fusible resistors.) Use a stricter 5% tolerance when checking parts to ensure a long future for “new” vintage gear. Most specifications allow for a +- 20% discrepancy and; use +- 5%.
21- Check ALL of the solder joints for cold joints, and clean and reflow where necessary.
22- Use of Nichicon High Temp Electrolytic Capacitors (UPW, UKL, etc), Nichicon Muse Capacitors, Elna Silmic II Capacitors, Panasonic Electrolytic and Stacked Film Capacitors and WIMA Stacked Film Capacitors as well as Zetex, OnSemi and Fairchild semiconductors and Xicon 1% metal film resistors when needed. Most consider these the best choices for vintage restorations. Always upgrade the voltage and temperature minimums on capacitors when appropriate to provide even longer service than the originals. All parts sourced from authorized USA distributors to ensure parts are genuine.
23- Edit: Full disassembly, cleaning and lubrication of coupler switch.
Added:
24-Full disassembly , cleaning and lubrication of functionselecor
Added:
25- Cleaning the male/female pins of all connectors on the function board along with those backplane pins from the rca's
Now, I will stress again that I am no tech unlike most of you. Just a hobbyist audiophile looking for the best CA-1000 known to man
so please consider my limited knowledge, and my curiosity.
Cheers,
Serge
Knowing this, I think I may be willing to go "phase 2" with this amplifier. I stumbled accross a site called "crossed path vintage" where a CA-1000 was fully restored on their portfolio. They made a complete list of all the work they performed and I would like to use this as a guide to establish the work scope. I would appreciate if you could give your input based on your experience if I should add/remove some parts of the scope.
Note: I contacted them with no luck. Their website doesn't seem to have been updated since 2016...
1- Full Replacement of ALL the electrolytic capacitors throughout the unit. 44+ capacitors.
Okay, my unit has been recapped but I may have to do a caps count and show actual pictures of the items replaced.
2- Full Replacement of ALL the tantalum capacitors throughout the unit. 30+ capacitors.
3- Full Replacement of ALL the outhouse shaped transistors (2SC458, 2SC734, 2SC1124, 2SC1166, 2SC1345, 2SA561, 2SA661, 2SA841) and any others known to get noisy or fail over time. Over 45+ transistors.
Edit:
3.1- Full replacement of all small signal transistors.
4- Replacement of ALL the Main Output Transistors with high-quality ONSemi MJ Series and application of new thermal grease.
5- Replacement of ALL the Variable Resistors to Bourns Multi-turn Trimmer Potentiometers to allow for precise fine tuning and calibration.
6- Replacement of the Main Power Supply Protection Relay.
7- Replacement of the 4 critical Power Supply Ceramic Disc Capacitors.
8- Replacement ALL 8 Protection Fuses.
No issue here. I already changed the main fuse with a Synergistic Quantum Blue fuse, with great success. It is planned that all fuses will be replaced with Blue over time.
9- Full Replacement of all of the Fusible Resistors throughout the unit. 27+ fusible resistors.
10- Replacement of Critical Diodes (both switching and zener) throughout in the amplifier and function boards.
11- Replacement of Both Class A/AB Microswitches with high amperage units that should last forever. The originals get severely tarnished leading to eventual failure and this is a must to upgrade these for long-term reliability.
12- Full disassembly of the power switch and proper cleaning to restore the original luster of the contacts and provide trouble free service.
13- Replacement of the power on indicator light with a color appropriate Warm White LED assembly that provides a bright red power indicator light due to original red filter lens.
The main red light has been changed for a new one since it was burnt out. I don't plan to change it since I am satisfied with the end result.
14- Thoroughly clean all controls, lubricate and properly preserve for long-term protection from noise and static.
15- Precisely complete all of the Service Manual calibrations to be spot on in Both Class A Mode and Class AB Normal Mode.
16- Professional cleaning, detailing and polishing inside and out…
17- Thoroughly clean inside and out as well. Professionally cleaning and properly lubrication of internal controls to ensure excellent long-term performance
18- Professional cleaning of all pots and lubrication as well
19- Verification of all capacitors, transistors and resistors to be in spec (that remain original) and replacement of all the electrolytic and tantalum capacitors and most all of the transistors as stated above.
20- Replacement of the transistors and resistors as needed, replacing any and all stressed parts or parts that are known to problematic over time (like outhouse shaped transistors and fusible resistors.) Use a stricter 5% tolerance when checking parts to ensure a long future for “new” vintage gear. Most specifications allow for a +- 20% discrepancy and; use +- 5%.
21- Check ALL of the solder joints for cold joints, and clean and reflow where necessary.
22- Use of Nichicon High Temp Electrolytic Capacitors (UPW, UKL, etc), Nichicon Muse Capacitors, Elna Silmic II Capacitors, Panasonic Electrolytic and Stacked Film Capacitors and WIMA Stacked Film Capacitors as well as Zetex, OnSemi and Fairchild semiconductors and Xicon 1% metal film resistors when needed. Most consider these the best choices for vintage restorations. Always upgrade the voltage and temperature minimums on capacitors when appropriate to provide even longer service than the originals. All parts sourced from authorized USA distributors to ensure parts are genuine.
23- Edit: Full disassembly, cleaning and lubrication of coupler switch.
Added:
24-Full disassembly , cleaning and lubrication of functionselecor
Added:
25- Cleaning the male/female pins of all connectors on the function board along with those backplane pins from the rca's
Now, I will stress again that I am no tech unlike most of you. Just a hobbyist audiophile looking for the best CA-1000 known to man
so please consider my limited knowledge, and my curiosity.Cheers,
Serge
Last edited:
Full dis-assembly and clean.
Function selecor may need the same treatment.
Cleaning the male/female pins of all connectors on the function board along with those backplane pins from the rca's
Not sure about the case for replaceing all outhouse shapped transistors, but probably helpful to replace all small signal transistors.
Probably quicker to replace than troubleshoot later on....
Parabellum27
Active Member
# 3 pretty much covers that already.
Parabellum27
Active Member
I noticed that the problem described above happens mostly on complex music, like flute, female vocals like Enya, etc.. I have read in some other threads that the problem could be that vintage pre-amplifier can not keep up when fed by a modern DAC and that it could be overloaded? Some people were talking about matching voltage between the amplifier and the DAC. The other thing I can see is the IC between the DAC and the amplifier; I am using a Kimber Kable Hero. Not sure by inserting a better IC would solve the problem. Any idea?
Parabellum27
Active Member
I checked the manuals of both the CA-1000 and BDA-3; the input sensitivity of AUX1 and AUX2 is 120mV on the CA-1000 and the output voltage in single ended on the BDA-3 is 2.0V. Could this be the source of the problem I described? What are the usual effects of this?
Attachments
Sybillance ?? ....................
Yes.. Try a different source without the DAC.
Parabellum27
Active Member
Yes, it's a hissing sound on top of the music, like a separated layer. I didn't pay attention in the beginning but now that I know it is there, it is disturbing as it pops out on complex material.
Parabellum27
Active Member
Ouch. I will try to borrow a CD player from my buddy to do some comparisons on the tracks I know that are problematic.
I checked the manual of the Yamaha A-S2100 and the imput voltage is 2.8V so no issue there. Looks like I may have to upgrade sooner than expected..