• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

NAD 2200PE upgrading

Good score on the 2600- do a similar set of upgrades and you will have a great amp
I should have it by mid-next week so we'll see what condition it's in. Do you have a pic of the 2600 input board, I can see from the manual it's a different spec from late model 2200s I have. 8 capacitors have been added. Does it need any mods?
 
attached photo of unmodified 2600 showing input board. Note the additional caps on the rear (470uf 50v) and it has additional transistors as regulators on the power supply for the board. Mods are the same as for 2200, and use PW/HE for the 470uf.

check the 2700 circuit for other changes as they both (2600/2700) have the same transformer and input board config
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0409.jpg
    IMG_0409.jpg
    197.1 KB · Views: 68
Good score on the 2600- do a similar set of upgrades and you will have a great amp
I got the 2600 today, removed top/bottom covers and all looks good. Interesting that they put the 100v 47uF caps (c301-304) on the bottom of the PCB. Needed to adjust the DC channel balance but the bias was within spec. Been listening to it for a couple of hours now and so far no issues with the relays or the front panel level pots so I guess I lucked out! I bought pots for it with my last Mouser order so will be replacing them tomorrow then I'll use it while recapping the 2200s. After that, it'll get new relays and electrolytics.
 
you lucked in- congrats. The 100uf 1oov HE from Nichicon fit neatly into the component part of the board when you recap
 
The 100uf 1oov HE from Nichicon fit neatly into the component part of the board
C301-304 were the first ones I did on a 2200 last nite so agree about the HEs. The cans are narrower but taller than OE Rubycons though I had to lean them over for some clearance from an adjacent axial resistor spaced above the PCB, presumably because it gets warm. On the right front of the 2600, the c302 pad is beneath the level pot board but it looks high enough to not interfere when installed though those resistors still need some clearance.
 
I started on the power supply board of my 2nd 2200. Unlike the first one, the adhesive holding the base of the Nichicon 10K uF electrolytics to the PCB is still intact. I was able to split the hot melt glue on the tops to get some wiggle and tried tracing around the bottom edge with an Xacto knife but the capacitor still isn't budging despite being desoldered. Any tips on how to break the caps loose without damaging the board?
 
Last edited:
unfortunately, application of force is required, I separate the caps (the white stuff they use to bind them together), then desolder the undersides, then apply heat to one of the connectors and wriggle back and forward (or side to side), this usually gets one loose. Then the rest will come off-it seems like you will break the PCB, but the glue lets go before that happens (or has done so far)- not an ideal solution by any means
 
unfortunately, application of force is required,
I was pretty sure that'd be necessary but feel more comfortable knowing your experience. The first 2200 was easier for some reason, but the "stuff" securing the bottom of the caps was black/brittle and that's not the case with this 2200. Guessing the first one was used in a warmer environment so it got a little "cooked."

I'm curious, since you do restorations for clients and presumably ship them back do you feel it necessary to secure the bottoms of the new caps with RTV or something similar? Snap-ins take less solder than the original blade type terminals and I wonder if the joints are strong enough to withstand forces encountered in transit especially considering the new 'lytics are smaller and don't mount as close to each other. I'd think you'd at least want to put some temporary packing between the caps so they don't flop around as much during shipping.
 
I use 4 pin caps for the 10k 100v, which seats well and then hot glue for the 10k 80v which only have the two pins- this seems to work
 
I got an order from Newark today with the relays I'll use on the 2600. They are the EXACT same part number (IMO SRKU-1CT-SL-24VDC) as the previous four I ordered from Newark and installed on my 2200s BUT they have an extra pin!?!? I double checked and everything is the same but there it is, a pin that does not line up with any existing hole on the PCB. And drilling a new hole is not a good idea as it would cut through an existing trace on the board. Guess I'll need to break out the Dremel and shear that thing off the relay. Good thing they're sealed. :(
 
Last edited:
can you post a picture of the pins?
Nevermind...It was a "brain" issue on my part. Been working on too many PCs lately. I was using the bottom of the PCB as a reference point to mark which pins to desolder so upside down, DUH!! I should have checked it against one of the old already removed relays but was too tired (or maybe stupid) yesterday but did that this morning and it's OK.

I did get the big caps off the board, that glue doesn't give up easily but no damage done!
 
great- good news, and yes brain fade is an occupational hazard
I'm doing MUCH better today...got the relays done on the 2600! I took the front panel off too because the glue holding the inner part had given up so it will need to be redone. While at it I hit the front level pots with contact cleaner and DeOxIT. I see there's a low leakage 25v 4.7uF polar and a pair of non-polar 25v 10uF electrolytics on the level board. I'm thinking it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them. Have you done those on the 2600s you've worked on?
 
I would suggest either 470uf HE or PW- they are both low impedance, which suits their function in this part of the circuit.
 
I’ve replaced the four malfunctioning trim pots today. Went through the calibration procedure. It seems like everything sounds fine again. It fixed the random channel imbalance problem too.
 
those pots cause many issues- check the voltage at D311/D312 and D309/D310- to make sure they are close to plus/minus 1.77v- if they are different by a margin replace Q333/Q332
 
I’ve just measured it. They are at +-1.67v. Although the 18v rail also only measures 17.8v. Not sure if it will also contribute to the .1v difference.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom