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Need help with SL 1700MK2

Thank you very very much for supplying this parts list. Very kind!


I received my SL-1710 "with issues"-

1) The cue will "drop" when the button is depressed, but will not "rise"- sometimes the motor will give indication of wanting to turn, but with not enough "oomph", and will spin weakly if given a nudge, other times it remains idle.

2) the "return" button has no effect on the arm at end of record. Does not activate the lift, therefore does not stop the platter.

3) The start/stop button doesn't start/stop the deck.


Thoughts?
 
thedelihaus said:
Thank you very very much for supplying this parts list. Very kind!


I received my SL-1710 "with issues"-

1) The cue will "drop" when the button is depressed, but will not "rise"- sometimes the motor will give indication of wanting to turn, but with not enough "oomph", and will spin weakly if given a nudge, other times it remains idle.

2) the "return" button has no effect on the arm at end of record. Does not activate the lift, therefore does not stop the platter.

3) The start/stop button doesn't start/stop the deck.


Thoughts?
Click to expand...
there is no start/stop on those just a stop- which if the arm is playing an LP should cause the arm to rise and return to the rest postion.

Where did you get this 1710? I'll assume it's a MKII.

Thanks
PS there is a way to make the 1700MKII's into a manual table you have to change one of the pins on the 6680 IC or so I've been told. I did try a Plinth from an 1800MKII on a 1700MKII and it worked except the platter spun all the time unless I shut off the power.
 
Stanton681EEES said:
there is no start/stop on those just a stop- which if the arm is playing an LP should cause the arm to rise and return to the rest postion.

Where did you get this 1710? I'll assume it's a MKII.

Thanks
PS there is a way to make the 1700MKII's into a manual table you have to change one of the pins on the 6680 IC or so I've been told. I did try a Plinth from an 1800MKII on a 1700MKII and it worked except the platter spun all the time unless I shut off the power.
Click to expand...


John,

Got it off Audiogon after seller's initial buyer backed out, and seller lowered the price considerably.

You are correct about the stop button.:yes:

It does not (de)activate anything at this time- hitting the button does nothing. It keeps spinning.

From first look, it seems the issue is with the "lift" activation of the arm, as the "drop" activation is fine.

I need to isolate the problem as to why it doesn't wan't to "lift".

Seems the arm lift motor gets either no signal, or a weak signal, and doesn't have the "grunt" to spin properly.
 
OK parts are ready! Aerobat and Zodia PM me your address. I will PM you the cost once I divide everything up. I need to get some antistatic foam on the way home.
 
Just a little update.

I received the parts/components yesterday, and I dug into it today ( i know i am going to oversleep and go to work late, oh well), I replaced all ICs in the arm control circuit, arm control board had all transistors (except for one, still missing an NTE85, which turned out to be the faulty component), I pretty much went one by one, unplug TT desolder old component, solder in new component, plug in TT, try out, well, I should have just changed the NTE85 AKA 2SD638 first and save me 3 hours of grieve :sigh: .

Anyhow, Paul requested pics, well I am not sure how pics are going to help but, I snapped a few pics, and then made a video of the 1700mk2 working, still working out the kinks, like the early arm return, this is happening because I had to disassemble the tonearm in order to tighten the arm tube, and I forgot to note the position of the sensor D'OH!

anyway, video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBQzETf8zFc

Pics will follow, Paul let me know what exactly you need to know.


John
 
Zodia said:
Just a little update.

I received the parts/components yesterday, and I dug into it today ( i know i am going to oversleep and go to work late, oh well), I replaced all ICs in the arm control circuit, arm control board had all transistors (except for one, still missing an NTE85, which turned out to be the faulty component), I pretty much went one by one, unplug TT desolder old component, solder in new component, plug in TT, try out, well, I should have just changed the NTE85 AKA 2SD638 first and save me 3 hours of grieve :sigh: .

Anyhow, Paul requested pics, well I am not sure how pics are going to help but, I snapped a few pics, and then made a video of the 1700mk2 working, still working out the kinks, like the early arm return, this is happening because I had to disassemble the tonearm in order to tighten the arm tube, and I forgot to note the position of the sensor D'OH!

anyway, video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBQzETf8zFc

Pics will follow, Paul let me know what exactly you need to know.


John
Click to expand...
:banana::banana::thmbsp:

Thanks for blazing the trail!!
 
Imagine that - just what the service manual suggests!! Good to know that one more SL-1700MK2 is 'alive'. I might be able to get to mine this weekend.
 
I know, right?
How could they have known? Lol
My wife talked me out of making a wooden base for it, she said it would look to bulky and ugly, so i am just going to give it a nice coat of gun metal grey, and possibly replace the tonearm.
Yesterday, i disassembled the tonearm motor and gears cleaned them and lubed the gears with silicone grease.
It is a great sounding TT, I played "brothers in arms" witha Grado black, and it sounded fantastic ( and i hate the grado on the 1200 ).


John
 
Zodia said:
I know, right?
How could they have known? Lol
My wife talked me out of making a wooden base for it, she said it would look to bulky and ugly, so i am just going to give it a nice coat of gun metal grey, and possibly replace the tonearm.
Yesterday, i disassembled the tonearm motor and gears cleaned them and lubed the gears with silicone grease.
It is a great sounding TT, I played "brothers in arms" witha Grado black, and it sounded fantastic ( and i hate the grado on the 1200 ).


John
Click to expand...

Oh plzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz don't put a wooden base on it. See you found out what I've argued with some people for a long time who bad mouth the technics arm and they've only heard it on the 1200 table, that it sounds so much better on the older like your MK because of the suspended design......

Why not paint yours Hi Gloss Black, Oh I know they show the dust etc....... but they looks so good in Black, I did one of my 1800MKII's in black and it looks so good. I did mine after seeing my friends 1600MKII But I like Metalic Gray as well. I did my 1700MKII in a gray and it's nice but not a s dark as I'd of liked.....
 
I am actualy considering a few colors, first, gun metal gray, or even graphite, it would go great with a graphite tonearm.second midnight blue ( basicaly an almost black blue hue), or just black, glossy of course.
The wife suggested i paint it the same color as my durango...Red.

John
 
Someone did one in a Lexus metallic silver. Looks original but nicer. I am leaning toward a metallic black on mine. The 1600MK2 I have is too nice to repaint.
 
Thoughts

thedelihaus said:
Thank you very very much for supplying this parts list. Very kind!


I received my SL-1710 "with issues"-

1) The cue will "drop" when the button is depressed, but will not "rise"- sometimes the motor will give indication of wanting to turn, but with not enough "oomph", and will spin weakly if given a nudge, other times it remains idle.

2) the "return" button has no effect on the arm at end of record. Does not activate the lift, therefore does not stop the platter.

3) The start/stop button doesn't start/stop the deck.


Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Have you tried hooking up the motor to 12v? Do you have a good 12 volts at the output of the little supply on the logic board?
Measure the button contacts and see if the button makes and breaks contact. On mine the stop button was shot and needs replacing. One of the other buttons is suspect as well. The 33 and 45 buttons are fine. Looks like my table had a good well used life before I got it. One of the micro switches buried in the tonearm was shot and will be replaced this weekend sometime.
 
Made some progress tonight on the arm board

srbliss said:
Are you sure it's the board and not one of those micro switches? I have re-flowed the arm control board and replaced all of the electrolytic caps and still no joy. Like I mentioned I do seem to have a bad switch.
Sure would be great if we are able to re-name (and show how to do so) this thread to 'How to fix the auto return on the SL-1700MK2'!!!
Click to expand...

I seem to have been a bit careless when reflowing the solder joints on the arm board - I made a tiny solder bridge on one of the transistors! Fixed that and I may have found a bad tranistor and replaced that one as well. Won't know if Ｉfixed it until I return home on Tueday - yes I brought the board and soldering tools with me on our little weekend getaway! Tonearm switches tomarrow.
 
I plan to tear into my 1700MK2 today and see if I can get the automation working. Does anyone have a good scan of the service manual? The one I have has page 27 cut off, which, unfortunately, is the electrical parts list.
 
Aerobat said:
I plan to tear into my 1700MK2 today and see if I can get the automation working. Does anyone have a good scan of the service manual? The one I have has page 27 cut off, which, unfortunately, is the electrical parts list.
Click to expand...

Ya I do or you can see the one on VE as that is mine as well........ I sent it to a person who uploaded it on VE hence her name rather than mine.........

I also have a big picture of the small automation board.
 
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