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Need help with SL 1700MK2

Also can anyone tell me if I have the correct orientation of the new transistor in this pic?

1700MK2%20002.jpg
 
:banana:Fixed!:banana: Thanks Steve for helping bring another classic back to life:thmbsp:

I got the correct orientation of the transistors from the spec sheet on Mouser.

I replaced Q506, 7, 8, 10, 11, and 12 and it lives:D. This table has sentimental value since I bought it in 1982 while stationed in Germany.
 
Aerobat said:
:banana:Fixed!:banana: Thanks Steve for helping bring another classic back to life:thmbsp:

I got the correct orientation of the transistors from the spec sheet on Mouser.

I replaced Q506, 7, 8, 10, 11, and 12 and it lives:D. This table has sentimental value since I bought it in 1982 while stationed in Germany.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear you got her up and running. Now go play lots of vinyl:thmbsp:
 
It is a Sweet sounding TT, I like it better than the 1200, specially now that I also got the tonearm bearing pivot situation resolved, the tonearm would bind in the last two tracks of an album, and at first i thought it was the tonearm wires that were too tight, because I took the all tonearm assembly apart to clean and regrease, but it turned out it was the top pivot that had just enough rust/oxidation, from the TT being stored in a humid basement (my best guess) for moisture to collect in there for rust to form, cleaned it polished it and it is in like new condition (for now, may replace the tonearm later on).
Glad to hear that another SL1700MK2 has been revived.
I just had a brain fart, I wonder if some one (not I since I am horrible at giving directions) could possibly make a thread on how to repair the SL1700MK2, or just keep this one for future reference.


John
 
I just got my SL-1700mk2 in the mail today. However, I need some help on a problem. When I took my new wheel for a test spin, I noticed that the stop/cueing/auto return did not work. I found that there was no belt, so I installed one. Tried another test spin. Cueing still did not work. I pressed stop, and the arm rose and moved home like a champ. Here is where the real problem starts. The auto return motor doesn't stop running, and the tone arm lift bar is stuck in the up position. The only way to stop the motor from spinning is to power off that turntable, however the lift bar will not drop. It is very difficult to play a record while the tone arm is always in the air!! Is this the same issue? Any ideas would be great! thanks.
 
Mine went dead completely until the transistors were replaced. Not sure what's causing your motor to keep running. Check for free gear movement and microswitches, etc.
 
I am starting to believe that as well...I think I am still in denial. upon further investigation I found that the gears work when I manually turn them. in normal operation, the main gear needs to spin one direction to raise the arm lift bar and drive the tone arm home, then the main gear needs to spin the opposite direction to lower the arm lift bar and this is not happening. it seems like it does not know the arm is touching the arm rest and is time to complete the cycle. could be a micro switch?
 
Aerobat said:
:banana:Fixed!:banana: Thanks Steve for helping bring another classic back to life:thmbsp:

I got the correct orientation of the transistors from the spec sheet on Mouser.

I replaced Q506, 7, 8, 10, 11, and 12 and it lives:D. This table has sentimental value since I bought it in 1982 while stationed in Germany.
Click to expand...

Aerobat,
what transistors are these? are they the nte85 or nte290a?
 
Aerobat said:
You need to look at the schematic - do you have one?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I meant what kind of transistor did you buy to replace the stock Q506, 7, 8, 10, 11, and 12.

Do you remember if it was a NTE290A?

Yes, I do have a service manual that I downloaded from a website.

Thanks.
 
If you look earlier in the thread, the types are listed for each board. I don't remember at this point.
 
Well I replaced Q506, Q507, Q508, Q510, Q511, Q512, and the small gear on the tone arm gear assembly and nothing! in fact now when I hit the stop button the motor does not turn on like it used to do prior to the replacements! Man, this is frustrating!!!!
I like this turntable, just don't know if I want to keep on messing with it.
 
I'm in the EXACT same boat as Brash. I found a 1700 MK2 at a thrift store last week and everything functioned except the automation. I replaced the belt and now the motor runs constantly and keeps the arm in the lifted position and is continuously pushing the arm to the stop position once I press the cuing button. Brash did you ever figure out if your issue was another IC or micro switch?
 
sweitzel said:
I'm in the EXACT same boat as Brash. I found a 1700 MK2 at a thrift store last week and everything functioned except the automation. I replaced the belt and now the motor runs constantly and keeps the arm in the lifted position and is continuously pushing the arm to the stop position once I press the cuing button.
Click to expand...

I got ahold of a 1700 MK2 that hadn't been used in awhile, and the tonearm wouldn't do anything. No cueing, no auto return. Could hear the motor when the cue button was pushed, but then it wouldn't stop unless power was cut. Platter spun up fine. Removed the cover under the platter, and of course the belt was in pieces. Replaced that - but nothing changed. Hmmm.:scratch2:

Disassembled the unit enough to see that the worm gear was driving a larger gear (a double gear) but it would continue to run until power was cut. Shut it down and pulled the tonearm assembly and discovered an adjustable slip clutch inside this large gear. See attachment; note the c clip is removed, though the washer is not.

I removed the retaining c-clip and washer, and was able to pull the gear away just enough to see that, behind the gear, the bushing that the outside nut was threaded on had opposite flat sides. Gripping these flat sides on the bushing with a small needle nose pliers, I was able to tighten the outside nut (9mm socket). It was very tight at first (appeared dried out grease flaked out of the threads once I got it turning). I tightened the nut maybe a turn, or a bit more. Note that if you don't get behind this gear and securely hold this threaded bushing, it will simply turn without any effect. It would have been much easier to work on if I could have removed the gear assembly, but unfortunately, the way it is attached in its location, it appears difficult to remove so I tightened the clutch in place.

This proved to be the solution, as now the clutch is adequately tight to drive the cam behind it, which engages a micro-switch that starts and stops the motor. Once stopped it reverses upon next engagement, effecting the cue mechanism to raise and lower the arm. All arm related functions now work. After reading here about all the IC and transistor problems with this table, I was very relieved the problem was a (relatively) simple mechanical issue!

Note in the photo that the small gear is cracked. As it is splined to its shaft, it is apparently not a problem. It doesn't seem to be performing a stressful task in any case.

Hope this helps someone bring their SL-1700 MK2 back to full function!
 

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    SL-1700 MK2 Arm Clutch.jpg
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markallen said:
Note in the photo that the small gear is cracked. As it is splined to its shaft, it is apparently not a problem. It doesn't seem to be performing a stressful task in any case.
Click to expand...

It will eventually fail. Sooner or later, one or more of the cracks will reach the outer circumference of the gear and, when that happens, things will grind to a halt.

Here's the fix.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=452256

Hope this helps someone bring their SL-1700 MK2 back to full function!
Click to expand...

Very helpful! Thank you!

John
 
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