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Nikko Owners--Show us your stuff!

It's finally "done". I have a Gamma I and EQ-950 that I might want to put in here as replacements though...

VHkkRuJ.jpeg


Nikko EQ-540 (220, just for that graphic equalizer!)
Nikko ND-1000
Nikko CD-500
Nikko Beta 50II
Nikko EQ-25
Nikko NPS-1
Nikko ATS-1
Nikko Gamma 20
Nikko Alpha 230


Way WAY cooler than my stack!

Good for you!
 
It's finally "done". I have a Gamma I and EQ-950 that I might want to put in here as replacements though...

VHkkRuJ.jpeg


Nikko EQ-540 (220, just for that graphic equalizer!)
Nikko ND-1000
Nikko CD-500
Nikko Beta 50II
Nikko EQ-25
Nikko NPS-1
Nikko ATS-1
Nikko Gamma 20
Nikko Alpha 230
I'd definitely go with the Gamma 1, it's a great sounding tuner. I've had a 20 and a 30, both were nice but neither compares to the 1.
Your system looks great.:beerchug:
 
I'd definitely go with the Gamma 1, it's a great sounding tuner. I've had a 20 and a 30, both were nice but neither compares to the 1.
Your system looks great.:beerchug:

Shouldn’t be hard to do a side by side comparison! Have any resources on what to look out for when comparing tuners (outside of perceived sound quality)?

Bonus pic I got at night.
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I have searched and searched anybody have any info on this receiver?

Is that photo all you've got to go on? If you know a model number, you might want to mention it.

Looking through the "STA" models on hifiengine.com, it bears some resemblance to STA-501, but I don't think it's an exact match.
 
I went and got it it is a NIKKO STA 70 from 1966? I have next or no information on it except here. It is a beautiful well built receiver.

Nikko use circuit breakers as opposed to fuses. I found out Nikko started as a circuit breaker manufacturer and their early amps & receivers incorporated the breakers. If it doesn’t work, reset the circuit breakers on the back. If it flips instantly you may need to repair, but it’s an excellent protection system.

It is the only one I have ever seen online after an extensive search. I am listening to it as I write this and I can say it has a very nice holographic tube sound to it.

If anybody has any information on what the adjustments on the bottom of the amp do I would really appreciate your input, “separation” and “muting level”.
I 171058D3-8E04-4C5B-9E54-27D4B26F49D2.jpeg C7062356-5EA7-4074-8425-36D088400B52.jpeg 2C899ACB-8E3F-4E10-9E9A-331E84352A58.jpeg 8D3D218D-6CF2-4C30-A6D8-184CC29848B5.jpeg FE35B7B4-32F4-4EA2-BA2A-B105090C72B5.jpeg 94F1B533-ABBD-4F47-AC6D-F0EB7E9EF296.jpeg 756CFAB3-1892-408E-A230-761FBB658FC1.jpeg 8F06E950-A162-4FF4-BA4B-C927E1705F38.jpeg 6C9C78DB-CAAF-496C-BE91-4AF50832ADFC.jpeg D6E03AAB-969F-4E5D-97DB-BF1E28AF73D4.jpeg was thinking of selling it but I may change my mind as it is so rare and so unique.
 
Hi, does anyone have a list of caps for an Alpha 220? I have an Alpha II which I recapped (first time) and only one channel working. As I troubleshoot that, I picked up an Alpha 220, Beta 40 and Alpha 40 all from the original owner and in great shape (the pre and tuner are for sale).

After running the 220 for a few days, I’m getting a horrible distortion so I just opened up the case and have two big caps I’m suspicious of (C803 and C804) but have been fooled by the Nikko glue on the Alpha II but it looks like they used a lot less on the 220 (or maybe none).

If anyone has a cap list for the 220 that would be appreciated or any other advise for a novice that would be great. Current symptoms are very bad distortion that goes away after a little time but getting worse. I checked for cold solder joints and nothing obvious.

Also, how do you disconnect the main board cables on this unit? I can release the locking piece on the top and then not sure what to do next. Is it a ribbon cable that pulls out of the white housing that’s attached to the board?

thanks
Bob
 
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Bought this fix and repair NR-715 a few weeks ago. Bad channel was from a bad 2SA798 so with KSA992 replacements and adjusting of the FM front end it is a nice sounding receiver with a competent tuner section. Before the adjustment tuned poorly in the upper half of the dial. Based on the noise and about a 3V DC offset in one channel suspected a differential pair problem to be its issue when demoing. Been curious and interested in finding a Nikko to get some first hand experience. The roughly 40 wpc unit has made a positive impression so far listening to it in the workroom with the KLH 17s. Will see how long it goes before I go back to the S-7200 it is sitting on again.
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