Nikko Owners--Show us your stuff!
- Thread starter Bigyank
- Start date
garage sound
Active Member
NR-815 receiver. I went to a sale a couple years ago expecting to find all this great stuff the guy had advertised but much of it was either trashed or not as hyped ("vintage" Polk and JBL stuff was 90's surround sound junk - and beat up). Sitting underneath some paper files was a Nikko NR-815 that had been used for background music in a small office for a few years. Very clean. I had never heard of Nikko at the time, but I wanted to come home with something so I gave him $20. I've been playing around with it in my garage system, using it as a preamp. Some guys have a passive preamp - I guess mine is a hyper-active preamp. Running this way, I find that I almost NEED to keep the tone controls at zero and definitely defeat the loudness circuit because it gets boomy. Is this what folks call "headroom"?
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HI
I have just been given an EQ-1. I have tried in vain to set it up with a few different amps/receivers. Could be I have set it up right and it does not work.
The only other EQ I have had was a an ADC sound shaper, and that was a while ago. Can someone enlighten me on the connections, and/or a scan of the connections diagram. I will probably test with a Technics Su-8055 integrated, or a Sansui 2000. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Glen[/QUOTE]
Hi Glen.
How do you have it hooked up?
I also have a DBX 3BX running through my system so it is a little different. Let me see if I can find the manual or look at the connections.
Gary
clydeselsor
Lunatic Member
TRM-750
It was powered off at the time of the pic!
It was powered off at the time of the pic!
fau5tu5
Active Member
Well with an integrated, ... I think you would have to run it through a tape/loop?? or between the Pre/main jumpers. as it typically in a seperates setup it simply slips in between your Preamp and amp. so unplug the RCAs going into the dedicated AMP, and plug those into the INPUT section on the back.. and then FROM the EQ OUTPUT section to the inuputs on the amp you just removed the cables from.
One think to remember.. set the source selector to "Source" straight up.. and make sure the "input/output" switch is to INPUT (up). If its down, to OUTPUT in that config,.. it wont do anything but passthrough.. (I think.. )
As mentioned if you are using an integrated youre going to have remove the jumpers and go from the "PRE" to the EQ "input" and from the EQ 'Output" to the "MAIN"
If I remember correctly.. Then you may have to select something on you receiver.. not familiar with either you mentioned.
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Cogsinister
Super Member
Nikko NR-350.
Dont know much about this one, it sounds great.......a $5 thrift store find that needs a bit of a clean and the slider switches cleaning.....but otherwise works fine.....drives my 6 Ohm Speakerlabs ......something the Sony underneath it wont do........
Dont know much about this one, it sounds great.......a $5 thrift store find that needs a bit of a clean and the slider switches cleaning.....but otherwise works fine.....drives my 6 Ohm Speakerlabs ......something the Sony underneath it wont do........
I have a DBX 3BX in the middle of mine but I'm running it through the tape 1 loop.
Gary
Debassige
Well-Known Member
Thought I'd revive this old (but not so old) thread. Just purchased a Alpha 400, will post pics as soon as it arrives in keeping with the theme of the thread.
Question, why do some some of the amps have the led metres (or whatever type metres they are) and others don't? I like the clean look of the 400 but I gotta say those metres sure are pretty.
Question, why do some some of the amps have the led metres (or whatever type metres they are) and others don't? I like the clean look of the 400 but I gotta say those metres sure are pretty.
fau5tu5
Active Member
Really can't say if there is a genuine "functional design" reason for some amps having L.E.D. meters, some analog, some with none. It's a marketing/style design decisions I would think. Some people are going to want pretty lights dancing, others prefer to watch needles bounce to show life in their audio gear, and others would prefer no distraction.
I personally am fonder of the analog meters or no meters unless the LEDs are a matched set with the rest of the system. (though my Alpha III has the LEDs)
It can get pretty crazy looking if you have different pieces all with different LED setups. When its dark your system starts to look like the set of an old sci fi movie. Then again.. there was a time that that would be considered a point of pride by most...
Who knows..
I personally am fonder of the analog meters or no meters unless the LEDs are a matched set with the rest of the system. (though my Alpha III has the LEDs)
It can get pretty crazy looking if you have different pieces all with different LED setups. When its dark your system starts to look like the set of an old sci fi movie. Then again.. there was a time that that would be considered a point of pride by most...
Who knows..
Debassige
Well-Known Member
I would much prefer big swooping analog metres with dim backlighting (Hitachi HMA-8500) over led's but having metres on some models and not others when most of the higher end stuff (Gamma and Alpha) all being made around the same time, weren't they?
Filmboydoug
Nikko Freako
The Alpha amps with Roman numeral model numbers (II, V, VI) are older than the 220, 230, 450, etc and for the most part used analog meters. Few exceptions are out there like the Alpha III mentioned above, and the Alpha 650 and 2000.
Nikkoholic
Active Member
Nikko did not put the meters on their smaller amps. One exception is their very first amp the Alpha I. It was a 220 w/ch, no meters and no on/off, but a power indicator. The next amp up from your 400 are the 600, 800, and 2000; they all have meters (Analog type) mounted sideways. These were unique to this series of amps. If you look further back in this thread yo will see one. It has blue colored meters. It was the last of Nikko.
Going backwards in time...
Same is true for the Alpha 130 (100 w/ch), it had no meters, just peak lights, but the Alpha 230 (120w/ch) and 450 (220w/ch) both had meters, however these were all LED meters. The Alpha 230 and 450 originally came in all white lettering. Later they changed the lettering to red. The Alpha 650 (330 w/ch) stayed with Analog meters (my second favorite).
Prior to that was Alpha 220 and 440 both had LED meters. These were similar to the 230 and 450 except the LED columns were under seperate glass panels. the 230 ann 450 were inside one glass window (minor look difference)
Then going back to the Alpha I (220 w/ ch), it had no meters, not even a power switch (very good looking amp to me), then the Alpha II (120 w/ch) had the light greenish analog meters (my favorite; classic Nikko look), Alpha VI (300 w/ch) had the same but larger light greenish analog meters. I believe there was an Alpha III but it had LED meters.
There were some other amp models scattered in there, but these are the popular ones.
Hope that helps explain.
Nikkoholic
Active Member
The Last of the Nikko's
Here are the Asti Pacific Nikko items from my collection. Never had the 600's or 800's. But the Alpha 2000 is the rarest of any Nikko made; in my opinion. This was a great find and had been sitting in the previous owners closet for the last 18 years or so.
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Here are the Asti Pacific Nikko items from my collection. Never had the 600's or 800's. But the Alpha 2000 is the rarest of any Nikko made; in my opinion. This was a great find and had been sitting in the previous owners closet for the last 18 years or so.
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clydeselsor
Lunatic Member
Really nice!!
Nikko Alpha III, Beta III, Tuner
Recently acquired this set off Craigslist, Spokane for $120, never heard of Nikko, so did some research. Needed to prove to my mother-in-law that the Bozak B-305 Moorish, McIntosh C22, MR71, Technics SL1200 MKII, TEAC X-1000R didn't need the MC240 to be driven.
The Alpha III actually sounds quite good in the system, I'm impressed, the Bozak B-305 are pretty efficient at 16Ohms, so basically anything could drive them.
I need knobs for the Beta III, anyone have any ideas on good replacement knobs?
Recently acquired this set off Craigslist, Spokane for $120, never heard of Nikko, so did some research. Needed to prove to my mother-in-law that the Bozak B-305 Moorish, McIntosh C22, MR71, Technics SL1200 MKII, TEAC X-1000R didn't need the MC240 to be driven.
The Alpha III actually sounds quite good in the system, I'm impressed, the Bozak B-305 are pretty efficient at 16Ohms, so basically anything could drive them.
I need knobs for the Beta III, anyone have any ideas on good replacement knobs?
