Set the overhang at 16.5mm, straight in the headshell and forget it.
Official AR Turntable Owners Thread
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Soundstar1
Member
Love the AR-XA Turntable
https://imgdepot.net/image/AR-XA.IqeiE
https://imgdepot.net/image/AR-XA.IqeiE
noisefreq
Super Member
The reason I did the Technics armtube swap was to make it easier to change out pre-aligned headshells. I don't like working over the turntable to get the overhang.
After I set the correct overhang, I measured the "outside gasket to stylus distance" and drew a simple measurement on graph paper. I lay the headshell on the horizontal line and eyeball the 48mm distance. Double check it with a ruler or calipers, and done.
The shadowing in the picture makes it look wonky, but it works.
After I set the correct overhang, I measured the "outside gasket to stylus distance" and drew a simple measurement on graph paper. I lay the headshell on the horizontal line and eyeball the 48mm distance. Double check it with a ruler or calipers, and done.
The shadowing in the picture makes it look wonky, but it works.
noisefreq
Super Member
I decided the Grace F9 on my AR TA needed a rest, so I loaded my Pickering XV-15 on a Technics headshell and soon discovered that the slots aren't long enough to get to the 48mm stylus to gasket distance needed.
My Grace is on (what I believe to be) a BSR headshell that slides on grooves rather than in slots, so I hadn't anticipated this problem.
I ended up installing the XV-15 on a Pioneer headshell and that works.
Just a heads up for those thinking just any headshell will work. Of course, this geometry may just be a symptom of my modded turntable because the Technics armwand I used is too long, I don't know.
I still double checked the overhang the old fashioned way,so I'm back to that.
My Grace is on (what I believe to be) a BSR headshell that slides on grooves rather than in slots, so I hadn't anticipated this problem.
I ended up installing the XV-15 on a Pioneer headshell and that works.
Just a heads up for those thinking just any headshell will work. Of course, this geometry may just be a symptom of my modded turntable because the Technics armwand I used is too long, I don't know.
I still double checked the overhang the old fashioned way,so I'm back to that.
Trasky
New Member
Hi everyone,
Haven't posted here in a while as life got in the way. Have finally done basic maintenance on the AR-XB I received and it seems to be working okay. I do have a few questions however.
Firstly, I attached the Nagaoka MP-110 I purchased however it doesn't sit flush against the top of the headshell - is this normal? Photos attached, the plastic around the screws was too thick to slide the cart into. I've set it to 1.8g as per recommendations, and have been told the cart would be a good fit for the table.
Secondly, how would you go about aligning the cart if there's no way to move the cart? The screws on the headshell are just in the one place. I did print a paper protractor but wondering if its worth buying one.
Finally, I noticed the queue mechanism is broken as it doesn't touch the tonearm to lift it up and down. What's the fix for this?
Sorry for the basic questions, I'm still new to this and all of the research I did this time last year has mostly escaped me
Thank you so much
Haven't posted here in a while as life got in the way. Have finally done basic maintenance on the AR-XB I received and it seems to be working okay. I do have a few questions however.
Firstly, I attached the Nagaoka MP-110 I purchased however it doesn't sit flush against the top of the headshell - is this normal? Photos attached, the plastic around the screws was too thick to slide the cart into. I've set it to 1.8g as per recommendations, and have been told the cart would be a good fit for the table.
Secondly, how would you go about aligning the cart if there's no way to move the cart? The screws on the headshell are just in the one place. I did print a paper protractor but wondering if its worth buying one.
Finally, I noticed the queue mechanism is broken as it doesn't touch the tonearm to lift it up and down. What's the fix for this?
Sorry for the basic questions, I'm still new to this and all of the research I did this time last year has mostly escaped me
Thank you so much
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noisefreq
Super Member
I don't recognize the headshell you're using. It looks like an original AR armtube because of the collar but it's not the usual XB box style headshell. BUT it looks very much how a XB box style headshell works with a cartridge, because of the fixed screw holes. I wouldn't worry about it not sitting flush, as long as it's secure. I'd like to see a picture of that headshell off the tonearm.
The procedure to adjust overhang is by slightly loosening the forward set screw on the platter side of the pivot block. I would remove the stylus first and replace it when finalizing the overhang distance. Be very careful not to pull too much because you don't want to break any wires in the armtube. Gently twist back and forth to get the arm to move.
So, I would FIRST figure out where the overhang is currently and that will tell you how much distance and direction you need to move the tube in the pivot block, shouldn't be more than a millimeter or two, hopefully not at all. Once set, gently tighten the screw. You can also level the headshell during this procedure, the azimuth.
You can never have too many protractors or overhang gauges in my opinion, but you can easily set overhang with a metric ruler. I wouldn't spend a bunch of money on one. If your headshell is the same dimensions as an original one, you could look for an AR overhang tool. The stylus tip needs to be 16.5 mm past the center of the platter spindle.
This is a post that addresses the cue lift:
To raise the height, turn the knurled cap counter-clockwise.
The procedure to adjust overhang is by slightly loosening the forward set screw on the platter side of the pivot block. I would remove the stylus first and replace it when finalizing the overhang distance. Be very careful not to pull too much because you don't want to break any wires in the armtube. Gently twist back and forth to get the arm to move.
So, I would FIRST figure out where the overhang is currently and that will tell you how much distance and direction you need to move the tube in the pivot block, shouldn't be more than a millimeter or two, hopefully not at all. Once set, gently tighten the screw. You can also level the headshell during this procedure, the azimuth.
You can never have too many protractors or overhang gauges in my opinion, but you can easily set overhang with a metric ruler. I wouldn't spend a bunch of money on one. If your headshell is the same dimensions as an original one, you could look for an AR overhang tool. The stylus tip needs to be 16.5 mm past the center of the platter spindle.
This is a post that addresses the cue lift:
Cleaned out and replaced the cueing silicone fluid on my AR-XB.
AR-XB cueing (cleaned and replaced damping fluid)... easy! **Pics** Many thanks to Marcmorin for all his advice, below is how I cleaned the cueing cylinder, piston and replaced the damping fluid. Model racing car differential fluid from my local hobby store, I used 100,000 cst, some isopropyl...
audiokarma.org
To raise the height, turn the knurled cap counter-clockwise.
I think the Colton looks quite elegant
When I bought my XA it had all kinds of crap glued on and bolted through the top plate. Not one, but two Dust Bug bases and a bubble level. Why the latter needed gluing I don't know.
The only thing I kept was this cueing device I posted on the previous page, the Colton Varilift. Works great but kind of spoils the simple understated aesthetic of the XA. It may go back in the parts drawer for when I'm older and my hand is shakier.
Trasky
New Member
This is fantastic - thank you so much noisefreq for the detailed explanations and suggestions, it really helps a lot. I'll get a photo of the headshell for you once I'm home from work
I'm also having issues with the grounding it seems, as my speakers have a humming noise when I touch the platter, spindle or tonearm. I'll do some research on that as well but any suggestions here are very welcome. I'm not the smartest tool in the shed when it comes to electronics but willing to learn
noisefreq
Super Member
OK. I'm going to post this and then go hide under a rock. I couldn't understand why my Pickering sounded so dull and lifeless?
I MADE A GRAVE ERROR IN THE MEASURING OF THE OVERHANG.
I didn't have my metric ruler pointing at the center of the pivot! So once I realigned the cartridge (and quadruple checked it) I realized the "stylus to gasket distance" is not 48mm but actually 52mm. Sound familiar? The Pickering is now riding on a Technics headshell and much happier.
Trasky
New Member
Here's some photos of the headshell as requested (ignore the cart, in a wee rush to get stuff sorted this morning).
Also ordered a cheap but solid protractor last night, keen to get things set up properly when that arrives! My understanding is that aligning with the two sections is the same as setting the overhang, or have I got that wrong? Either way I'll get my hands on a metric ruler and check the current overhang when I get time
Also ordered a cheap but solid protractor last night, keen to get things set up properly when that arrives! My understanding is that aligning with the two sections is the same as setting the overhang, or have I got that wrong? Either way I'll get my hands on a metric ruler and check the current overhang when I get time
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Yep, that is one of the later AR head shells. I think it came on the AR77-XB
Added a Swiss Jewel sapphire window W9.53 onto if the existing delrin thrust plate and did some testing just with the RPM app .
Some improvement for a $8.40 investment. I uses these in the tone arm as well with a sapphire 5.55 ball.
DELRIN
SAPPHIRE
AR XA Tonearm Bearing Size and Source?
I just accquired another XA in very nice shape and when doing cleaning and inspection found that it is missing the bearing in the tonearm well:sigh:. I can take the one out of my other XA and did a search but thought it faster and easier to ask here:yes:...what is the size and where to order...
audiokarma.org
.219"
Just an afterthought, don't try e-mailing him. God rest his soul he won't be able to answer. Then again knowing him he might!
Edit to add last comment
I used the Sapphire ball with a sapphire window from SwissJewels . Not a lot of stress on either so I guess it doesn't matter.
FWIW I also replaced my Delrin platter thrust plate with a sapphire window. No issues there either.
nashou
So I decided that since I recently had @StuartB work on my XA arm and spindle I would spend my March Break ( Spring Break for those in the US) building a new plinth for it.
When I first got the deck it had a vinyl wrapped chipboard frame and a slightly damaged clear dustcover.
A few years ago I saw a solid walnut XA frame with a slightly less damaged, tinted dust cover for sale at a good price, so I picked it up.
Now for the new frame I was planning, I knew I wanted to use the less damaged dust cover and that my woodworking skills are very basic.
So I decided to basically wrap the chipboard frame In wood, leaving about half an inch exposed at the top for the dustcover to sit on. That would leave the walnut frame untouched, and undamaged.
I had hoped to get some solid Walnut boards, or Brazilian Rosewood for the new wrap around, but given the cost of those, I thought that it would be a smart idea to build a mock-up using some MDF I had in the basement first (cutting bevels on my low end, jobsite table saw is not easy).
So after I had cut the boards and assembled the wrap around plinth things looked pretty good, so I thought to myself why not get some veneer and make this mock-up the real thing?
Since nowhere in town had any Walnut veneer I ended up going with some Birch, which I will stain.
That being said here are some pics.
So, now we come to the point of my post. I am in need of an AR badge. I have seen a few replicas for sale on the 'Bay that look decent enough, but was wondering if anyone has any experience with any replica badges for sale that they would recommend.
When I first got the deck it had a vinyl wrapped chipboard frame and a slightly damaged clear dustcover.
A few years ago I saw a solid walnut XA frame with a slightly less damaged, tinted dust cover for sale at a good price, so I picked it up.
Now for the new frame I was planning, I knew I wanted to use the less damaged dust cover and that my woodworking skills are very basic.
So I decided to basically wrap the chipboard frame In wood, leaving about half an inch exposed at the top for the dustcover to sit on. That would leave the walnut frame untouched, and undamaged.
I had hoped to get some solid Walnut boards, or Brazilian Rosewood for the new wrap around, but given the cost of those, I thought that it would be a smart idea to build a mock-up using some MDF I had in the basement first (cutting bevels on my low end, jobsite table saw is not easy).
So after I had cut the boards and assembled the wrap around plinth things looked pretty good, so I thought to myself why not get some veneer and make this mock-up the real thing?
Since nowhere in town had any Walnut veneer I ended up going with some Birch, which I will stain.
That being said here are some pics.
So, now we come to the point of my post. I am in need of an AR badge. I have seen a few replicas for sale on the 'Bay that look decent enough, but was wondering if anyone has any experience with any replica badges for sale that they would recommend.
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Looks great!