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Official AR Turntable Owners Thread

Hi,

I'm new to the forum, but I feel this is the best place to help me out.

I recently acquired an XA from an older gentleman and it needs a bit of work. Mainly, it's missing a single bearing pivot screw. I thought about machining one out of SS, but I'd rather have the original item. Is there a place to source out the bearing screws?

I'm in Montreal, Canada.

Thank you kindly.

-Alex
 
Hi Alex,
Welcome to AK and your acquisition of an XA! I probably have an extra one sitting here. You might consider posting some images to get some feedback from folks of suggestions.
Definitely take the time to research or peruse the AR AK thread for things you can do for your table. Some have none to minimal cost
Since you are missing one pivot pin not likely you are using it so can't listen to what it sounds like. Do you know if it has a cast or stamped aluminum T-bar?
You can check to make sure there is oil in the center well, spin it up to approximately 33.3rpm, time how long it takes to come to a stop. After doing some cleaning and polishing and repeating that spin to stop test you might find that extend to about 3 minutes.
Couple things you might try doing is check the condition of the thrust plates in the spindle and tone arm wells. Especially the center platter spindle well. If it has a dimple you can flip it over. Be careful when lifting out the tone arm, take note of the direction and amount of curve of the wires, that is your anti-skate. Also you don't want to break a wire as you lift out the tone arm, and there is a ball bearing in that well, don't want to lose that!
Take the belt off and lift the pulley off the motor spindle. Use two spoons to lift the pulley straight up, add some oil to the spindle and let it run for a while. It will help to bring up any gunk that might be in the motor. I have thrust plates available.
Lots of great people on here, much more qualified than I, can give you suggestions.
Have fun!

Added comment, there are some folks in Canada that may be able to help with the pivot pin, might save you some time and expense for shipping for you.
 
Kinda sucks that a pivot screw is missing. Not unobtainium, but pretty unlikely at your local hardware store. Maybe check the bay or vinyl nirvana?

Can be debated both ways, but I leave the dimple side up. It's broken in and the platter won't "swim" around trying to make a new dimple. Same reason you don't use some kind of metal shim. (No, not saying I could hear a difference, just saying.)
 
Hi Hose,

Thank you for your reply.

I will post pictures of the table later this week.

I have taken out the tone arm and, luckily, have not lost that ball bearing.

I'm familiarizing myself with the table and I like the simple construction. As it stands, I need a new belt, although the one I have is usable.

I have family in Florida near Tampa, if that is something you could do.

Thanks again.

Alex
 
I do have pivot pins but again if you can find one in Canada it will save time and a bit of cost for shipping.
I think you'll find most folks will say flip thrust plate over if there is a dimple or get a new one. Spindle is in a well, pretty much stable in there. You want the least amount of contact to reduce the amount of friction. Just a thought
 
Alaxy Galaxy said:
Hi Hose,
Thank you for your reply.
I will post pictures of the table later this week.
I have taken out the tone arm and, luckily, have not lost that ball bearing.
I'm familiarizing myself with the table and I like the simple construction. As it stands, I need a new belt, although the one I have is usable.
I have family in Florida near Tampa, if that is something you could do.
Thanks again.
Alex
Click to expand...
Yup, We can send to Tampa. I have belts as well, I'll send you a conversation. AKer StuartB and I spent tons of time with Marc Morin, God rest his soul. This was during his last year, he passed as much as he could to us, I have all his left over pieces and part. I have found a few tables, some with the stamped T-bar that have donated their parts.
 
Here is the XA I picked up.

It's not perfect, but not bad, considering. The cover has a large crack along the top, unfortunately. It needs a bit of cleaning, oiling and polishing, but otherwise it seems to work as it should. When I get the pivot screw (thank you Hose53 for hooking me up), I'll put it through its paces.




20250327_101632.jpg20250327_101926.jpg20250327_101811.jpg20250327_101826.jpg20250327_101717.jpg20250327_101652.jpg
 
I unfortunately did not take note of the manner in which the wires were routed before taking it apart a few weeks ago.

Is there a baseline for how to set them?
 
Finally finished this today.
Big thank you to @enricosonic for the badge.
I decided to swap the stock AR dustcover for a spare rega one that I had so I could have it hinged.
I had to figure something out for the hinges though, because the rega dust cover had the hinges, but I didn't have the bases for the hinges to slip into.
Luckily the two holes on the hinges have the same spacing as standard cupboard door hinges.So it was simply a matter of drilling a 3rd hole and getting some machine screws, nuts and washers and voila!
20250413_124001.jpg20250413_124023.jpg20250413_124058.jpg
I was initially going to paint the white plastic ledge that the dust cover sits on to look like aluminum, but I kinda like the white.
 
chaz said:
Finally finished this today.
Big thank you to @enricosonic for the badge.
I decided to swap the stock AR dustcover for a spare rega one that I had so I could have it hinged.
I had to figure something out for the hinges though, because the rega dust cover had the hinges, but I didn't have the bases for the hinges to slip into.
Luckily the two holes on the hinges have the same spacing as standard cupboard door hinges.So it was simply a matter of drilling a 3rd hole and getting some machine screws, nuts and washers and voila!
View attachment 3480489View attachment 3480490View attachment 3480492
I was initially going to paint the white plastic ledge that the dust cover sits on to look like aluminum, but I kinda like the white.
Click to expand...
What platter mat are you using? I have an Achromat by Funk and really like it. Not sure if it is due to the actual mat properties or if it changes the VTA due to its thickness, but the improvement in sound was noticeable.
 
That's just an acrylic platter mat. I had a cork one prior to this that I made, but this acrylic one produces or holds less static than the cork ones did, and it doesn't have any negative effect on the sound.
Got from Amazon - nothing special.
 
chaz said:
Finally finished this today.
Big thank you to @enricosonic for the badge.
I decided to swap the stock AR dustcover for a spare rega one that I had so I could have it hinged.
I had to figure something out for the hinges though, because the rega dust cover had the hinges, but I didn't have the bases for the hinges to slip into.
Luckily the two holes on the hinges have the same spacing as standard cupboard door hinges.So it was simply a matter of drilling a 3rd hole and getting some machine screws, nuts and washers and voila!
View attachment 3480489View attachment 3480490View attachment 3480492
I was initially going to paint the white plastic ledge that the dust cover sits on to look like aluminum, but I kinda like the white.
Click to expand...

Congrats on a finished product. Nice solution for a hinged cover too.
 
So I've been thinking about that felt /foam(?) washer that use to rest on the chassis under the sub-platter at the spindle.
As we all know over the years it disintegrates and if left in place crystallizes and needs to be removed.
I've been wondering if finding something to replace it might be worthwhile.
Has anyone tried this?
If so, what have you used?
I am thinking about Teflon (PTFE) washers. My thinking here is PTFE is inert to virtually all chemicals and considered the most slippery material in existence. Those qualities would seem to make it an ideal material for this application.
What do you folks think worth it or an unnecessary addition that won't realy have any impact?
 
Last edited:
chaz said:
So I've been thinking about that Foam washer that use to rest on the chassis under the sub-platter at the spindle.
As we all know over the years it disintegrates and if left in place crystallized and needs to be removed.
I've been wondering if finding something to replace it might be worthwhile.
Has anyone tried this?
If so, what have you used?
I am thinking about Teflon (HDPE) washers. My thinking here is HDPE is inert to virtually all chemicals and considered the most slippery material in existence. Those qualities would seem to make it an ideal material for this application.
What do you folks think worth it or an unnecessary addition that won't realy have any impact?
Click to expand...
Just making sure that you're aware that HDPE (high density polyethylene) is not the same as Teflon (PTFE, a k.a. polyflouroethylene.) The two different materials do not have the same properties at all.
 
Stroth said:
Thanks for these photos and drawings - very helpful.
I've spend an embarrassing amount of hours on this and unfortunately I am running into some issues....

I am still getting some hum - especially when touching the tonearm wires and ground. Likely several issues at play.

My edited photo from the AR manual is wrong. I did the wires in this order:

Green
White
Red
Blue

I had a little hum, but did manage to hear a few songs -- WOW.

Now I am all in and have to finish this thing.

Where should the ground wire from the tonarm pivot go ?

I grounded it to the fifth slot on the bridge - but I think that may be wrong. Do I ground it to the left (white shield) post or ground it via the lug where it appears the ground from the RCA (left) side is also grounded ? I am thinking that since I grounded it onto the the buss strip that I've created a loop.

As I was trying to track the hum down I also managed to break the leads off of a replacement headshell that I got from ebay. I've been trying to solder them back on -- and it has not been going well ..... Is it even possible to solder those ? The original shell that came with the deck has the spring pins --- maybe I need to focus on repairing that one..... I appreciate any tips !
Click to expand...
I think the ground from the tonearm should be screwed somewhere in the chassis? I remember in one of my Thorens decks this was the configuration. I even ran an extra ground wire from the chassis going to the phono stage ground.
 
I´m getting a AR XB1, that currently has a Shure M44MG cartridge with a N44G stylus. Since that stylus seems not in production anymore, is a new cartridge the way to go, or find a NOS N44G. Opinions? Seller says it´s still good but on a downward slope.
 
chaz said:
So I've been thinking about that felt /foam(?) washer that use to rest on the chassis under the sub-platter at the spindle.
As we all know over the years it disintegrates and if left in place crystallizes and needs to be removed.
I've been wondering if finding something to replace it might be worthwhile.
Has anyone tried this?
If so, what have you used?
I am thinking about Teflon (PTFE) washers. My thinking here is PTFE is inert to virtually all chemicals and considered the most slippery material in existence. Those qualities would seem to make it an ideal material for this application.
What do you folks think worth it or an unnecessary addition that won't realy have any impact?
Click to expand...
I think it was soaked in oil to keep the shaft lubricated somewhat. Id use an oil soaked felt washer.
 
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