Mister Pig
Pigamus Maximus
Same builder, Mike Kelley at Woodsage Audio did these. Uses 10" coax and two 10 inch bass drivers per side.
Regards
Mister Pig
Open Baffle Epiphany!
- Thread starter cptnCanada
- Start date
Same builder, Mike Kelley at Woodsage Audio did these. Uses 10" coax and two 10 inch bass drivers per side.
Regards
Mister Pig
MX117.MC7150
Listener
Thanks. That's beautiful wood.
Am thinking the 10" coax and single base driver in as narrow a piece as would be structurally sound might be just the ticket for my pair of SET amps.
Am thinking the 10" coax and single base driver in as narrow a piece as would be structurally sound might be just the ticket for my pair of SET amps.
Helped a buddy gut an old magnavox console. I got the speakers. 3 way system, one tweeter cone ripped, but I have since fixed it with a tiny piece of coffee filter and aleens tacky glue. 10'' woofer, looks like alnico magnets.
Gotta find some thick cardboard. Can't wait to hear some real open baffles.
Gotta find some thick cardboard. Can't wait to hear some real open baffles.
cubdog
banging through drywall
If you have a craft store or office supply store handy, they sell three panel sheets of heavy cardboard or foam core project boards. I've seen them sell for under three dollars each. They would make a great temporary Betsy style baffles.
cubdog
Mister Pig
Pigamus Maximus
That is really really hard to say. Depends on what co-ax you use, and what you expect. I bought these speakers to use with an Electra Print 300B Custom amp, which is good for 8 wpc. Efficiency of the co-ax is 94 dB, and the crossover is 6sB per octave with Alpha Core coils, Clarity caps, and Mills resistor. It sounded nice with the EP gear, but a bit too warm and romantic for my taste, that kind of classic British sound.
I experimented with a few things. but what finally did the trick for me was a 33 wpc Class A battery powered amp based on a Nelson Pass A40 circuit, along with an active SS pre-amp. I found the c combination to have the majority of that SET magic and yet open the top end up in a way that the tubes didn't. Hersey I know, as I have used SET for over a decade. But this is what worked for me.
As far as a narrow baffle, these are around 15 inches wide as I recall. They are good for 50 hertz, and then I roll a subwoofer in. The narrower the baffle, the less bass extension you are going to get. So its a trade off.
Regards
Mister Pig
Thanks for the tip, cubdog. If I like what I hear, I'll replace the 4 caps in the crossover. Eager to hear this setup. :yes:
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
FWIW the 15" Eminence Alphas can reach 40Hz in open baffles which covers the lowest commonly used note on a double bass ( E @ 41.2 Hz ).
Mister Pig
Pigamus Maximus
At what sized baffle for that? I still have my Fostex 208 Sigma in my Sachiko cabinets. I will admit to being interested in building another pair and perhaps putting a different driver to sell them. I hear there is a Dayton that works really really well in this cabinet.
Regards
Mister Pig
kyle
Super Member
PG, you've done a lot of work with open baffles, how do you reconcile the bass you get from your baffles with info at the Single Driver Site? They seem to be at odds.
http://fullrangedriver.com/singledriver/baffle.html
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
I don't.
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
That is very dated information assuming a single driver on an OB. Since no driver parameters are considered it is only attempting to quantify the baffle size and where it starts to roll off. I do not believe the curve is relavent for detailed design work and a calculated/simulated SPL response for the actual driver(s), crossover, and baffle geometry is much more accurate. My own in-situ SPL measurements seem to correlate very well with my design calculations.
It is all about making intelligent trade-offs. Type of woofer, baffle size, passive or active crossover, EQ, and placement of the driver on the baffle in your room. You can design by simulation, build and measure, copy somebody else's work, or completely by ear and intuition. There are a lot of ways to solve the puzzle and get great performance, so play to your own individual strengths as a designer. Personally I like high Qts drivers in wide OBs, or in H/U frames, for the bass section.
Bonkers60
Super Member
I am planning to build a set of OB's. I have ordered a pair of Fostex FE126En full range drivers to get started. I am trying to understand the amp hookup that I will need. I am planning to use a Marantz 1030 integrated amp for the full range drivers, and a Yung SD200 for two 15" Eminence Alpha's, one per baffle.
Should the preamp out signal on the Marantz be sent to the Line In on the Yung? then, should the line out on the Yung be sent back to the Marantz amp? Hope my question makes sense. If I understand properly, is the Yung a single channel amp? looking forward to building my first set of DIY speakers. I will post a picture of my baffle plan once I have finished it.
Should the preamp out signal on the Marantz be sent to the Line In on the Yung? then, should the line out on the Yung be sent back to the Marantz amp? Hope my question makes sense. If I understand properly, is the Yung a single channel amp? looking forward to building my first set of DIY speakers. I will post a picture of my baffle plan once I have finished it.
PR Audio
Super Member
Nice drivers and woofers you got. Not sure how you will connect. I have a Marantz 1060, so I know the inputs/outputs. You would have to come of the Marantz 1030 pre-amp out with an RCA Y-Adapter with an RCA interconnect to from each channel to the corresponding plate amp, and the same to each amp input of the Marantz 1030. What I don't know if there would be an electrical issue that might make such a connection unsafe for the equipment.
kyle
Super Member
When you say high Qts drivers are you thinking +.50Qt or as in +1.00? I think it makes more difference with an OB.
I've done some OK experiments with varying baffles sizes and drivers (I've got a bunch). It's still surprising almost every time when you hear the full range-ish sound from some of these drivers.
I've done some OK experiments with varying baffles sizes and drivers (I've got a bunch). It's still surprising almost every time when you hear the full range-ish sound from some of these drivers.
It doesn't appear from looking up the Marantz, that it has a line out. If it did, you'd be in business with it. If you use the tape loop, you won't have control over the volume to the sub with the main volume knob.
But yes, the plate amp appears to have the ability to loop through it for the bass duty and come back to an amp. What you bring back, it does not give you as a high pass, so your full range speakers will be running full range with the woofer augmenting the FR. This means either you need to provide some other means of rolling off the lows to them, or keep an eye on the total excursion of those drivers.
EV3
Bonkers60
Super Member
What type of issues should I be looking for? It does appear that I do have the proper connections.