Packing/Shipping 101
- Thread starter Wardsweb
- Start date
Easy. They won't carry it! No placards on the brown trucks, at least around here.
piece-it pete
What, me worry?
If you talk to these guys they'll usually come clean.
Things like: automated high-speed conveyors as high as forty feet, boxes dropping of the back of the truck then getting runover, etc, but for us the main issue is just them tossing the stuff on and off the truck, which they'll do right in front of you.
I don't know about explosives but for hazardous mat'l you need to be certified by UPS or they'll blacklist you :yes: !
Pete
Things like: automated high-speed conveyors as high as forty feet, boxes dropping of the back of the truck then getting runover, etc, but for us the main issue is just them tossing the stuff on and off the truck, which they'll do right in front of you.
I don't know about explosives but for hazardous mat'l you need to be certified by UPS or they'll blacklist you :yes: !
Pete
surfdoc37
Endlessly Endless End
Pack It Right
Hey the liquid idea is great, hadn't thought of that. Best solution is to number one, not use UPS :thumbsdn: . We've shipped a few thousand packages over the past five years and UPS lost our business EARLY, they simply abuse items, many other shippers concur, ask around. Believe it or not, USPS (the Post Office) didn't damage a THING in about 800 packages, but their fees went way up and we switched to FedEx Ground a couple years ago, our current carrier. Most of our stuff is large or heavy so the PO scored great with those packages :thmbsp: .
For a volume shipper, 'quick and efficient' are both musts, so we always use new boxes bought from a local supplier, we stock tons of sizes. But the U-Haul moving boxes and other stuff is great too. Most important, strength and padding, regardless of what it is. For heavy items, STYROFOAM, in fact UPS refused an electronics damage claim we had once because it was packed in 4" of 1/2" bubble wrap rather than their REQUIRED styrofoam, which incidently wasn't posted ANYWHERE by UPS as a requirement to secure insurance compensation :worried: .
Anyway, now we use very oversized boxes, on heavy items allowing for at least 4" of foam on ALL SIDES (top and bottom), though we've gotten by with as little as 2" on sides for certain items. We first wrap EVERYTHING with 18" pallet wrap, comes in rolls for about $20 that will last most people a couple of years. The pallet wrap seals the entire unit and gives it initial 'rub protection'. It also really helps to strengthen everything, hold cords and wires tight, keeps knobs intact, etc., making it easy to drop into a box. Makes a good impression on the buyer too
.
Next we load up the bottom of the box with several extra inches of styrofoam peanuts, then jiggle the box to settle them and pack them. We drop the unit in and wiggle it down so it sits several inches above the bottom of the box, the heavier the unit the more inches you need on the bottom. With luck the carrier won't flip the box over and the bottom packing will absorb all the abuse along the way. Center the unit in the box, then pour the peanuts all around the sides. Jiggle the box again to settle them in and pour again, covering the top several inches deep. Remember the carrier or automated distribution centers may flip the box over so the top then becomes the bottom, so pack for it. I've found that the heavier the box the less likely it is to be flipped over. Remember, PEANUTS SETTLE, so don't pack them loosely, otherwise they'll all flow to the sides and bottom and the top will be unprotected, or the unit will shift to one corner or bottom, take a hit, and all is lost
.
Do your best to once again jiggle the box before you tape the lid flaps down, then over fill the box slightly with peanuts. You want the lid to fold down snugly, then tape it tightly. Tape ALL the seams of the box, across the center and two of the sides of the flapped ends, PLUS the glued seam on the side corner. On heavier boxes I sometimes even tape EVERY corner seam of the box, to add strength for enroute hits and handling and prevent bursts, and usually lay two or three strips spaced across the top and bottom, sort of like straps, to add extra strength, sort of the same theory of taping windows in a hurricane. I hate to use the term gorrilla proof, but remember your carrier may be on his last week with the company and getting his revenge, it happens :worried: .
Now the thing a lot of shippers give no thought to is the label placement. But I put it EXACTLY where I want the carrier to reference it from, depending on the weight and shape of the box. I want to be sure the bottom stays on the bottom, so on stereo components the label will likely be topside, toward one side, with the label being readable from the side it's toward (not upside down). If the label is flipped around the carrier may stand and store the package on the side so he can read it while packing it in the truck. Label placement is very important.
Some amps are very heavy to one side so that may figure into your packing strategy. It will naturally want to tip or fall to the heavy side, so if it is VERY top heavy and not real wide pack it upside down in the box so the heavy part is always on the bottom. That will prevent flip overs, sort of like the blow-up punching bags that are weighted on the bottom; punch it and it returns upright, heavy side stays down. If the unit is VERY side heavy, either pack the box with that side down, or place the label on that top side so the carrier can rest the heavy side against himself while carrying it and reading the label. If the weight is on the other side he'll drop it as it rolls out of his arms :worried: , then mentally blame you for not packing it well if something is damaged :sigh: . Use more peanuts on that heavy side, because the carrier may well store it in his truck with the heavy side down, regardless of any arrows or 'this side up' instructions you have on the box.
I shipped a vintage boat motor, packed strategically, and had arrows and 'this side up' all over the box. I handed it directly to the driver and the first thing he did was lay it on its side, right in front of me, as he fit it into the layout of his truck. He totally ignored the labels without a thought.
Now all of this seems expensive or otherwise, but if so you have likely never had to handle a damage claim or deal with an angry buyer :worried: . Think 'overkill' when packaging, don't assume you'll have a caring driver; machines do much of the work, drivers get tired and hurried. Besides, a $500 amp deserves good packaging, a small part of the overall price. Be sure to charge enough for shipping so you won't feel you have to cut corners. iShip.com (http://iship.com/priceit/price.asp) is a good source for general price quotes to base your shipping fees on :thmbsp: .
The solid foam boards are a good idea, make sure they're thick enough all the way around. But they can be expensive and timely, and as mentioned transfer shock to the unit, the reason many manufacturers only do the corners. But for speed, cost, and efficiency the earlier method works great. FYI, for lighter items such as cassette decks or CD players, several layers of 1/2" bubble wrap works great, all the way around the unit. We buy 24" wide wrap which is 'perfed' every 12" for tearing pieces off. Usually you can wrap the unit several times with the bubble wrap then fold the ends over and tape them down. If the unit is wider you can tear off a couple extra sections, roll them up, and tape them to the ends of the unit. Then drop it all in the box same as before, making sure it WON'T MOVE AROUND. No movement is critical with any package, if it moves the dynamics can be greatly increased when a box is dropped, creating forces that will overpower your padding :sigh: . Always ask yourself the question, "If I were packing this to ship home to myself, will this be good enough?" :yes:
That was the short version, tune it at 11 for a full report... :thmbsp:
Hey the liquid idea is great, hadn't thought of that. Best solution is to number one, not use UPS :thumbsdn: . We've shipped a few thousand packages over the past five years and UPS lost our business EARLY, they simply abuse items, many other shippers concur, ask around. Believe it or not, USPS (the Post Office) didn't damage a THING in about 800 packages, but their fees went way up and we switched to FedEx Ground a couple years ago, our current carrier. Most of our stuff is large or heavy so the PO scored great with those packages :thmbsp: .
For a volume shipper, 'quick and efficient' are both musts, so we always use new boxes bought from a local supplier, we stock tons of sizes. But the U-Haul moving boxes and other stuff is great too. Most important, strength and padding, regardless of what it is. For heavy items, STYROFOAM, in fact UPS refused an electronics damage claim we had once because it was packed in 4" of 1/2" bubble wrap rather than their REQUIRED styrofoam, which incidently wasn't posted ANYWHERE by UPS as a requirement to secure insurance compensation :worried: .
Anyway, now we use very oversized boxes, on heavy items allowing for at least 4" of foam on ALL SIDES (top and bottom), though we've gotten by with as little as 2" on sides for certain items. We first wrap EVERYTHING with 18" pallet wrap, comes in rolls for about $20 that will last most people a couple of years. The pallet wrap seals the entire unit and gives it initial 'rub protection'. It also really helps to strengthen everything, hold cords and wires tight, keeps knobs intact, etc., making it easy to drop into a box. Makes a good impression on the buyer too
.Next we load up the bottom of the box with several extra inches of styrofoam peanuts, then jiggle the box to settle them and pack them. We drop the unit in and wiggle it down so it sits several inches above the bottom of the box, the heavier the unit the more inches you need on the bottom. With luck the carrier won't flip the box over and the bottom packing will absorb all the abuse along the way. Center the unit in the box, then pour the peanuts all around the sides. Jiggle the box again to settle them in and pour again, covering the top several inches deep. Remember the carrier or automated distribution centers may flip the box over so the top then becomes the bottom, so pack for it. I've found that the heavier the box the less likely it is to be flipped over. Remember, PEANUTS SETTLE, so don't pack them loosely, otherwise they'll all flow to the sides and bottom and the top will be unprotected, or the unit will shift to one corner or bottom, take a hit, and all is lost
. Do your best to once again jiggle the box before you tape the lid flaps down, then over fill the box slightly with peanuts. You want the lid to fold down snugly, then tape it tightly. Tape ALL the seams of the box, across the center and two of the sides of the flapped ends, PLUS the glued seam on the side corner. On heavier boxes I sometimes even tape EVERY corner seam of the box, to add strength for enroute hits and handling and prevent bursts, and usually lay two or three strips spaced across the top and bottom, sort of like straps, to add extra strength, sort of the same theory of taping windows in a hurricane. I hate to use the term gorrilla proof, but remember your carrier may be on his last week with the company and getting his revenge, it happens :worried: .
Now the thing a lot of shippers give no thought to is the label placement. But I put it EXACTLY where I want the carrier to reference it from, depending on the weight and shape of the box. I want to be sure the bottom stays on the bottom, so on stereo components the label will likely be topside, toward one side, with the label being readable from the side it's toward (not upside down). If the label is flipped around the carrier may stand and store the package on the side so he can read it while packing it in the truck. Label placement is very important.
Some amps are very heavy to one side so that may figure into your packing strategy. It will naturally want to tip or fall to the heavy side, so if it is VERY top heavy and not real wide pack it upside down in the box so the heavy part is always on the bottom. That will prevent flip overs, sort of like the blow-up punching bags that are weighted on the bottom; punch it and it returns upright, heavy side stays down. If the unit is VERY side heavy, either pack the box with that side down, or place the label on that top side so the carrier can rest the heavy side against himself while carrying it and reading the label. If the weight is on the other side he'll drop it as it rolls out of his arms :worried: , then mentally blame you for not packing it well if something is damaged :sigh: . Use more peanuts on that heavy side, because the carrier may well store it in his truck with the heavy side down, regardless of any arrows or 'this side up' instructions you have on the box.
I shipped a vintage boat motor, packed strategically, and had arrows and 'this side up' all over the box. I handed it directly to the driver and the first thing he did was lay it on its side, right in front of me, as he fit it into the layout of his truck. He totally ignored the labels without a thought.
Now all of this seems expensive or otherwise, but if so you have likely never had to handle a damage claim or deal with an angry buyer :worried: . Think 'overkill' when packaging, don't assume you'll have a caring driver; machines do much of the work, drivers get tired and hurried. Besides, a $500 amp deserves good packaging, a small part of the overall price. Be sure to charge enough for shipping so you won't feel you have to cut corners. iShip.com (http://iship.com/priceit/price.asp) is a good source for general price quotes to base your shipping fees on :thmbsp: .
The solid foam boards are a good idea, make sure they're thick enough all the way around. But they can be expensive and timely, and as mentioned transfer shock to the unit, the reason many manufacturers only do the corners. But for speed, cost, and efficiency the earlier method works great. FYI, for lighter items such as cassette decks or CD players, several layers of 1/2" bubble wrap works great, all the way around the unit. We buy 24" wide wrap which is 'perfed' every 12" for tearing pieces off. Usually you can wrap the unit several times with the bubble wrap then fold the ends over and tape them down. If the unit is wider you can tear off a couple extra sections, roll them up, and tape them to the ends of the unit. Then drop it all in the box same as before, making sure it WON'T MOVE AROUND. No movement is critical with any package, if it moves the dynamics can be greatly increased when a box is dropped, creating forces that will overpower your padding :sigh: . Always ask yourself the question, "If I were packing this to ship home to myself, will this be good enough?" :yes:
That was the short version, tune it at 11 for a full report... :thmbsp:
This is how I currently pack. About 2”
of insulation board all six sides, and triple layer large bubble wrap in front and back. ( put in plastic bag first)
Don't use peanuts. They compress, and then the unit will move around inside box. Moving around inside box, during shipment, means death to equipment.
I really don't care what the cost is for the 2" foam board. (about $10 a sheet) It is the way to pack. Why do you think the manufactures use it for packing?
of insulation board all six sides, and triple layer large bubble wrap in front and back. ( put in plastic bag first)
Don't use peanuts. They compress, and then the unit will move around inside box. Moving around inside box, during shipment, means death to equipment.
I really don't care what the cost is for the 2" foam board. (about $10 a sheet) It is the way to pack. Why do you think the manufactures use it for packing?
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Carpet Padding! NEW!!!
Got a tube amplifier from a seller in Canada. I was somewhat paranoid and mentioned bubble wrap, separate boxes for the tubes, etc., that I had "learned" on various forums. He said he hadn't received any complaints so far.
He placed the tubes in white SOCKS (clean!) inside the wooden case in the area where they had been pulled from. The socks filled the case interior.
He then plastic wrapped the amp and boxed it in a box 1-1.5" larger on all sides. The 1-1.5" was filled with 3 layers of (clean) carpet padding. This box was then placed in another larger box with 2 layers of clean carpet padding again.
Canadian post and then USPS. Not a ding/scratch/bent switch or knob. Tubes were intact and it sounds great!
Got a tube amplifier from a seller in Canada. I was somewhat paranoid and mentioned bubble wrap, separate boxes for the tubes, etc., that I had "learned" on various forums. He said he hadn't received any complaints so far.
He placed the tubes in white SOCKS (clean!) inside the wooden case in the area where they had been pulled from. The socks filled the case interior.
He then plastic wrapped the amp and boxed it in a box 1-1.5" larger on all sides. The 1-1.5" was filled with 3 layers of (clean) carpet padding. This box was then placed in another larger box with 2 layers of clean carpet padding again.
Canadian post and then USPS. Not a ding/scratch/bent switch or knob. Tubes were intact and it sounds great!
BuckNaked
Class of '80
I posted this in another thread. Might be of interest to those who are contemplating shipping items by common carrier. Usually items with a final packaged weight of less than 70 pounds, with L + W + H < 108 inches.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=398743#post398743
I will agree with the concept of packaging to withstand a CORNER drop from waist height. :cry:
I've seen pallets of parcels stacked 6' high. Imagine your parcel at the bottom. Under someone's fruitcake from Aunt Martha.
We all know how much fruitcake weighs.
Imagine these guys dancing on your parcel...
When you are the buyer/recipient you have a couple of options.
You can assemble the proper packaging materials and instructions and send them along to the seller/shipper, or you can require the shipper use a shipping and packaging services like the UPS Store. Usually poor packaging, but claims are paid quickly because they packaged it. Also consider the local high end audio retailer that would understand the needs of the item. Recommended for turntables especially. :thmbsp:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=398743#post398743
I will agree with the concept of packaging to withstand a CORNER drop from waist height. :cry:
I've seen pallets of parcels stacked 6' high. Imagine your parcel at the bottom. Under someone's fruitcake from Aunt Martha.
We all know how much fruitcake weighs.
Imagine these guys dancing on your parcel...
When you are the buyer/recipient you have a couple of options.
You can assemble the proper packaging materials and instructions and send them along to the seller/shipper, or you can require the shipper use a shipping and packaging services like the UPS Store. Usually poor packaging, but claims are paid quickly because they packaged it. Also consider the local high end audio retailer that would understand the needs of the item. Recommended for turntables especially. :thmbsp:
Carpet Padding??
Conceptually for packing I like the idea of an outer layer of foam boards or layers of heavy cardboard to protect the contents,(except for prentration damage, how are you going to stop a forklift time, 3/4 inch plywood ???) and a bubble wrap pillow around the (Plastic wrapped)equipment, with a layer of foam board conforming to the equipment, protecting the bubble wrap from equipment induced punctures, ie knobs, corners etc...
(But completely filling the box with bubble wrap can get expensive... )
Unless the equipment has a high mass to volume ratio, then I would double box (foam boards in inner box, filling it to distribute shock evenly), or if it is really MASSIVE, with a fragile case around it... I would BOLT it at the same frame that mounts whatever is heavy into a solid plywood INNER box.
There is no one solution, it depends on how heavy/fragile the object is...
I have used peanuts in the past, packed until the box bulges... no shifting there, thats why I reinforce the outside box.
here is my question..... Who has sent/recieved stuff with carpet padding as protection? Flat ?? Rolled?? etc ???
My reasoning is that peanuts can be crushed (even if very packed) by one of those 4 - 6 foot drops, and a hole in the box lets the peanuts out, but padding protects against that high-g impulse that does the real internal damage, and does not stay crushed during the short term and won't dribble out if in sheet form.
I have done mil spec shock design AND TESTING... (make it/ break it/ try again, and again, and again....) so I have some idea of the parameters.
(when a tank main gun fires...
..., but then one of those track mounted howitzers.... 
that's intense
Conceptually for packing I like the idea of an outer layer of foam boards or layers of heavy cardboard to protect the contents,(except for prentration damage, how are you going to stop a forklift time, 3/4 inch plywood ???) and a bubble wrap pillow around the (Plastic wrapped)equipment, with a layer of foam board conforming to the equipment, protecting the bubble wrap from equipment induced punctures, ie knobs, corners etc...
(But completely filling the box with bubble wrap can get expensive... )
Unless the equipment has a high mass to volume ratio, then I would double box (foam boards in inner box, filling it to distribute shock evenly), or if it is really MASSIVE, with a fragile case around it... I would BOLT it at the same frame that mounts whatever is heavy into a solid plywood INNER box.
There is no one solution, it depends on how heavy/fragile the object is...
I have used peanuts in the past, packed until the box bulges... no shifting there, thats why I reinforce the outside box.
here is my question..... Who has sent/recieved stuff with carpet padding as protection? Flat ?? Rolled?? etc ???
My reasoning is that peanuts can be crushed (even if very packed) by one of those 4 - 6 foot drops, and a hole in the box lets the peanuts out, but padding protects against that high-g impulse that does the real internal damage, and does not stay crushed during the short term and won't dribble out if in sheet form.
I have done mil spec shock design AND TESTING... (make it/ break it/ try again, and again, and again....) so I have some idea of the parameters.
(when a tank main gun fires...
..., but then one of those track mounted howitzers.... that's intense
Last edited:
Vintage TX
Analog forever
I sometimes ship heavy reel to reel decks with 70 lbs weight.
A new sturdy box from U-Haul 24x24x27 cost $ 9.75
Styrofoam panels for the sides and 2 sheets on the bottom of the box.
5 inches of peanuts on top.
Wrap the deck with large bubble-wrap 3-4 times, tape each layer together.
Lay the deck in the center on top of the 5 inches of peanuts.
Use styrofoam blocks in each corner so the deck can't shift in transit.
Fill the sides and top with more peanuts tight, not just toss them in, because they will sink down otherwise..
After that, cut a large sheet of styrofoam for the top before sealing the box.
Use good packing tape all around the box and seal it really good.
Fragile stickers on each side and top.
Packing slip inside with buyers address info + phone nr. ( Fed Ex and UPS labels get destroyed in transit sometimes.. :thumbsdn:
Insurance is important + pictures of what's inside and of course write down the serial nr if for some reason the package get destroyed or disappear.
Just my 2 cents of packing experience. :thmbsp:
A new sturdy box from U-Haul 24x24x27 cost $ 9.75
Styrofoam panels for the sides and 2 sheets on the bottom of the box.
5 inches of peanuts on top.
Wrap the deck with large bubble-wrap 3-4 times, tape each layer together.
Lay the deck in the center on top of the 5 inches of peanuts.
Use styrofoam blocks in each corner so the deck can't shift in transit.
Fill the sides and top with more peanuts tight, not just toss them in, because they will sink down otherwise..
After that, cut a large sheet of styrofoam for the top before sealing the box.
Use good packing tape all around the box and seal it really good.
Fragile stickers on each side and top.
Packing slip inside with buyers address info + phone nr. ( Fed Ex and UPS labels get destroyed in transit sometimes.. :thumbsdn:
Insurance is important + pictures of what's inside and of course write down the serial nr if for some reason the package get destroyed or disappear.
Just my 2 cents of packing experience. :thmbsp:
Digital cameras... love 'em, no extra cost, lots and lots of pictures, and after it arrives safely, wait a few weeks then delete, very cheap precautions....
BuckNaked
Class of '80
When an item approaches the 70-pound limit, yes, it is time to consider crating and palletizing.
Up to 70 lbs and within the set shipping limit of less than 108 inches for L + W + H in inches:
1st layer: waterproof. Hefty bag (don't skimp) lawn and leaf extra heavy gauge.
2nd layer: Snug casing. Bubblewrap at least 3 layers. Box with a minimum 1 inch think styrofoam 'form', minding switches and knobs and little breakable thingies.
3rd layer: 1st cardboard box container, heavy gauge.
4th layer: Styrofoam peanuts. 3-4 inch layer on the bottom of the shipping box. The important thing here is to make certain that you completely fill the shipping container tight with peanuts to avoid shifting of the peanuts allowing the inside box to work it's way to the bottom.
5th layer: shipping box. These really need to be good quality. nuff said.
A note about addressing:
(Print clearly)
NAME
STREET ADDRESS (including apt #)
CITY, STATE ZIP CODE
COUNTRY
Double and triple check the address. Include your return address. Write this information on at least 2 sides of the box. And yes, you need to write the address on the box you just wrapped up inside. I'll wait while you re-open the shipping box...
Be sure you aren't writing on the packing tape, as the ink can be wiped out and the address obliterated. Use a 'SHARPIE' permanent laundry-type marker.
ASK FOR THE INSURANCE. Don't assume it's insured. Don't insure for a value you cannot prove. Get signature upon delivery. Keep receipts FOREVER.
Up to 70 lbs and within the set shipping limit of less than 108 inches for L + W + H in inches:
1st layer: waterproof. Hefty bag (don't skimp) lawn and leaf extra heavy gauge.
2nd layer: Snug casing. Bubblewrap at least 3 layers. Box with a minimum 1 inch think styrofoam 'form', minding switches and knobs and little breakable thingies.
3rd layer: 1st cardboard box container, heavy gauge.
4th layer: Styrofoam peanuts. 3-4 inch layer on the bottom of the shipping box. The important thing here is to make certain that you completely fill the shipping container tight with peanuts to avoid shifting of the peanuts allowing the inside box to work it's way to the bottom.
5th layer: shipping box. These really need to be good quality. nuff said.
A note about addressing:
(Print clearly)
NAME
STREET ADDRESS (including apt #)
CITY, STATE ZIP CODE
COUNTRY
Double and triple check the address. Include your return address. Write this information on at least 2 sides of the box. And yes, you need to write the address on the box you just wrapped up inside. I'll wait while you re-open the shipping box...
Be sure you aren't writing on the packing tape, as the ink can be wiped out and the address obliterated. Use a 'SHARPIE' permanent laundry-type marker.
ASK FOR THE INSURANCE. Don't assume it's insured. Don't insure for a value you cannot prove. Get signature upon delivery. Keep receipts FOREVER.
I just updated my pack and ship page to include some examples of things I've shipped.
http://wardsweb.org/packandship/
http://wardsweb.org/packandship/
merrylander
AK Member
Regarding peanuts thhey should always be bagged, I use the plastic bags the newspaper comes in. This way they do not shift and the person receiving the package does not have to chase static charged peanuts all over the place.
Rob
Rob
cableguy2
Well-Known Member
Closed cell foam is kinda expensive, my father in law has a business dealing with foam, etc, and they sell it to furniture manufacturers, boat makers, airline. You can find lots of heavy duty cheap foam around those places.
I find that the styrofoam that is used in shipping Dell computers makes a perfect enclosure for a stereo or reel t reel. Sometimes you have to shape it, but it keeps the unit floating and if you have great cushioning above and below that, it won't break anything. I wrap the unit in wax paper first, then bubble wrap, then put the strofoam enclosures around it. Perfect.
I find that the styrofoam that is used in shipping Dell computers makes a perfect enclosure for a stereo or reel t reel. Sometimes you have to shape it, but it keeps the unit floating and if you have great cushioning above and below that, it won't break anything. I wrap the unit in wax paper first, then bubble wrap, then put the strofoam enclosures around it. Perfect.
Jim H B
Well-Known Member
Hold for pick up at UPS
I live close to a UPS "customer center" (not a UPS store). You can have packages shipped to the customer center, in your name. Have the sender mark the package "hold for pick up".
UPS calls me when it get in, and I go pick it up. This is a totally unsupported theory of mine, but I think UPS might treat the package better when they know that they will be handing it you, face to face.
Here's an email from UPS on it:
If the package has not been shipped, UPS offers a Hold for Pickup service free of charge. UPS will deliver your package to the UPS Customer Center and will call the receiver when it arrives. Packages will be made available by 8:30 a.m. on the scheduled delivery day. Hold for Pickup is not an available service at The UPS Store or UPS Air Service Centers.
For each package, the shipper of record must address Hold for Pickup shipments with the receiver's full name, telephone number, name of a contact person, the words "Hold for Pickup" and the full address of the designated UPS Customer Center.
In addition, a UPS Hold for Pickup label must be applied below the address label on the package. Packages not picked up within five business days from the date of arrival will be returned to the shipper. The recipient will be required to provide a government issued photo identification.
For additional information on this service, please refer to the following link:
http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/select/sending/options/hold_pickup.html
Jim
I live close to a UPS "customer center" (not a UPS store). You can have packages shipped to the customer center, in your name. Have the sender mark the package "hold for pick up".
UPS calls me when it get in, and I go pick it up. This is a totally unsupported theory of mine, but I think UPS might treat the package better when they know that they will be handing it you, face to face.
Here's an email from UPS on it:
If the package has not been shipped, UPS offers a Hold for Pickup service free of charge. UPS will deliver your package to the UPS Customer Center and will call the receiver when it arrives. Packages will be made available by 8:30 a.m. on the scheduled delivery day. Hold for Pickup is not an available service at The UPS Store or UPS Air Service Centers.
For each package, the shipper of record must address Hold for Pickup shipments with the receiver's full name, telephone number, name of a contact person, the words "Hold for Pickup" and the full address of the designated UPS Customer Center.
In addition, a UPS Hold for Pickup label must be applied below the address label on the package. Packages not picked up within five business days from the date of arrival will be returned to the shipper. The recipient will be required to provide a government issued photo identification.
For additional information on this service, please refer to the following link:
http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/select/sending/options/hold_pickup.html
Jim
Sandy G
Retired Member
Guys, I'm the new Moderator here...I know a little about packing & shipping, being a German & as such, tend to over-engineer everything, I pack everything like it going to go to Timbuktou... If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to PM me, I'll gtry to get your concerns adressed as soon as possible...-Sandy Geiger
